No headlights

[Tom Erickson]

I have a 1992 Ram 250 4x4 and the head lights went out. At first it was just the high beams then after a while the low beams went out too. I replaced the headlight switch and the headlights worked for a couple of months then the high beams went out followed by the low beams a while after. I figured the part was probably bad so I replaced the switch again, but still do not have headlights, but I have running lights. I put a light tester on the wires going to the switch and have power everywhere except three poles labeled U, B3 & D on the right side of the switch. Does this have something to do with the dimmer switch? Or any suggestions?

 

[sdeeter19555]

First, find the issue which could be the dimmer, the switch, or bad grounds at the headlights.

Second, put the headlights on relays to take the load off the factory wiring. That will extend the life of all your switch and dimmer.

 

[Tom Erickson]

First, find the issue which could be the dimmer, the switch, or bad grounds at the headlights.

Second, put the headlights on relays to take the load off the factory wiring. That will extend the life of all your switch and dimmer.

Okay, Thanks for the response. I'll check the grounds first, then the dimmer switch. The relay is a good idea. Thank you.

 

[sdeeter19555]

You can make your own relay setup or buy one from LMC.

 

[Capt. Methane]

Except that most relays now come from the People's Republic of Contagion (probably like the replacement headlight switch did!) and are about as reliable as a rubber crutch...

You may well have a high resistance somewhere in the wiring-you'll see voltage with a meter and maybe a low watt light tester will work but there won't be enough current flow available to make the high draw headlights work. I'd recommend looking closely in and around any connectors near the high beam switch and that switch itself since the issue was high beams first, then low beams it kind of makes me suspicious the problem may be in that part of the circuit.

I'd look in and around the fuse box too-it is not unheard of for a fuse to become resistant to current flow...

 

[Bluebird]

I installed LMC relay kit, continues to function, (easy install). Make sure the 2-rectangle relays stay dry. They may rust out, mine did. I replaced relays only. Bought them from LMC (sold separately: wonder why?) If you buy kit, get at least 2- extra relays. My daily driver before Pandemic, just due for an oil change now/every 4500. Last change, 3/12/20. Blessings, Patrick

 

[AnonEd]

I've had fused relays from Hella since 1978 (1992 on the truck) with no fuse or relay failures...I think they're still made in Germany? They're plastic housing so don't mount where you'll whack it with a wrench, and you have to double check the 30 and 86 pin locations if you use a relay socket since they might be reversed. My headlight switch does suffer, but only because of the added dash lighting for instruments and switch labels.

 

[sdeeter19555]

I installed LMC relay kit, continues to function, (easy install). Make sure the 2-rectangle relays stay dry. They may rust out, mine did. I replaced relays only. Bought them from LMC (sold separately: wonder why?) If you buy kit, get at least 2- extra relays.

This was my only complaint with the LMC kit, it uses an atypical relay and they are NOT easy to find or cheap. I did source two from Amazon cheaper than LMC for spares (use the LMC relay part number in Amazon search).

I decided that, if the relays proved problematic, I would cut them out and use traditional ice-cube relays. They have, however, functioned fine for two years as of June, and this is almost a daily driver.