2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Noise reduction effort update

[GGibson]

Lead Sheet preforming

When you preform the lead sheet into a shallow pan shaped area, and you come to the corner area, do you cut out a pie shaped wedge so the corner edges come together without overlap (as much as possible) or do you just wrinkle it into the corners? Also, when applying the thicker 1/2" foam do you hold back from the fastener areas so you can get the panels back on easier or try and force the fastener thru the 1/2" foam & lead? I'd guess that this may become obvious when I start into it but a heads-up wouldn't harm. . Thanks

 

[Lsfarm]

Preforming

I cut the piece of lead out because the wrinkles in the corners are pretty thick with the over lapped lead, and hard to work with . And I do try to keep the 1/2 foam away from fasteners for exactly your reason.



There are some areas that are difficult to insulate, but every little bit helps



Greg L the Noise Nazi

 

[illflem]

Greg, have you noticed if it's easier to heat/cool your truck with all the insulation?

 

[Scot]

Re: joining the quiet club

Originally posted by dflack

OK, I'm getting ready to tackle the noise - 3 comments/questions-1. How thick(what weight) of lead is recommended?

2. Greg, you're the bandleader here... have you had the opportunity to check with your contacts at GSI to attempt to lower direct pricing (TDR) to less than through JCWhitney...

3. Anybody in the North Texas D/FW area planning this project... any chance of combining an order to get better pricing/shipping from GSI and/or suggestions on a source for lead sheeting? I hope to get to Bic's Coffee shop next Saturday and will ask whoever's there too...

4. Finally, I don't see much talk in this thread on noise coming up thru the gearshift... suggestions? I would think the best time to be working in this area is when I have the seat/carpet out.

Fort Worth Roofing on Vickery has lead sheet in stock.

For 36x36", I was quoted $32. 25 for 2. 5lb/sqft and $36. 50 for 4lb/sqft. In stock.



Greg: What weight do we need? Is there a concern about trapping moisture etc behind the firewall blanket or hood blanket?

 

[KL]

I did a few more little things this weekend from ideas I picked up on this thread to use up some left over foam. 1) I put some Soundstop foam where the 4wd shift lever is. I also put some foam pipe insulation around the shifter levers. 2) I took off the knee blocker (large plastic panel under the steering column) in an effort to reduce noise coming from the engine compartment. I attached a piece of Soundstop foam to the back (a heads up - there is very limited clearance in some areas behind this panel, so do not cover all of the backside). 3) I also put some Soundstop foam on the floor in front of the drivers and passengers seats up as far as I could towards the firewall under the carpet (this was above the sound deadening material I applied earlier). Cumulatively I think they all helped a little bit, but I don't have a sound meter so I cant say for sure. I'm out of Soundstop foam now, need to order some more. Klaus

 

[GGibson]

KL

Will you be using the JC Whitney 1/2" foam 15ZX8488B or go to GSI? Also, when using the 1/2 inch soundstop foam under the floormats, do you remove the stock insulation that is about 1/2" thick just to make room?

 

[KL]

I don't know who I will order from yet. I don't know if Greg was able to negotiate a better price from GSI or not. One thing to also consider is shipping costs. JC Whitney used to be super expensive, but I think they have lowered their rates compared to years ago.



I did not remove any of the factory insulation. But I didn't put the Soundstop foam all the way to the edge. That way the trim pieces could still go on. Klaus

 

[illflem]

According to a catalog I received this week from JC Whitney the shipping is free for items in the catalog, looks like the same stuff as usual.

 

[KL]

I just looked at the catalog I got a few days ago. With mine the free shipping only applied to orders over 200 dollars. But I looked at their shipping rates, and they have dropped compared to years ago. When I used to live in Idaho their minimum shipping was over 12 dollars. I'm glad to see something go down in price. KL

 

[GLASMITHS]

FREE SHIPPING??

The fine print said see back cover for details. Back cover says if order is OVER $200. 00. $80. - $199. 99 is 50% off. Anyway, it is about 25-35% less than GSI.



BTW, The UPS man brought by liquid Noise Killer this evening. 1 gallon. This is supposed to be enough for 2 good coats on the inside. Then I will put a full coat of the 1/2" sound stop foam over that, with layers on back wall and passengers floor, and inside all doors, as much as possible.



ALSO, my CFO allowed me to order an economy decibel meter this evening. I'm not much on seat of the pants. So will make extensive measurements before and after. No one to my knowledge has used the Noise killer; so this perhaps will be some new information. In about a month.



PSS KL, no offence, just abrasive mind, but I thinks you are TTing in the wind by putting the sound stop OVER the factory stuff. It should be a part of the metal, eg securely glued... ... ... ... ... .....

 

[KL]

Glasmiths, see my 2-04-02 post, I put the Soundstop foam above the sound deadener I applied earlier. So the Soundstop foam ended up being on top of the floor and below the factory blanket. But I did not think of glueing the Soundstop down. That may help more.



Please let us know how the noisekiller works. Thanks KL



P. S. No offense taken

 

[GLASMITHS]

Contact Cement

This dumb spell checker ate my whole post... ... ... ... ... ... .....



I will post the info. That way Greg can compare with his as far as improvement with the lead and all he has done.

 

[Boondocker]

Noise Killer

GLASMITHS,



After reading every post I can find on the noise reduction subject, I'm still most keen on the viscoelastic polymer approach of products like Noise Killer and Quietcoat. I'm hoping that 2 coats overall and 3-4 in the exhaust route areas would be comparable or better to mat type products in terms of perceived quietness and cost. Additionally, I think this would be the best stuff to put on the oil pan, fender liners and under hood. Although I think the hood deserves a more asthetic treatment as well



Not being too thrilled with the thought of removing my interior, I want to get it right the first time.



So I'm eagerly awaiting not only your results but your installation experience.



Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks,

Neil

 

[GLASMITHS]

Boondocker:



The whole exercise is to add mass to the metal and stop the vibration. That s' what sound is. I don't know if it is as good as the lead. And we may never know for certain; as it also has to do with who puts it on and a lot more variables. The main reason that I will put the sound stop over the Noise Killer is because of the heat that comes through the floor in summer. This last summer it was very noticeable. Also am considering doing the firewall in engine compartment with both. And all those little places that Greg talks about.



That is one of the important thing of owning a db meter. They will tell you where the noise is coming through. The Noise Killer per se, is cheaper than the foam.

 

[Lsfarm]

GSI vs JCW

I'm sorry, I've been all over the country this last week, and haven't had time to call GSI. [I have to sleep sometimes ] And it will be a few weeks before I can get to it.



I'd just call them, tell them that JCW is selling for less, and can they match or do better, the worst they can say is no!



I'm looking forward to some before and after meter readings with the Noise Killer product. It would be a lot easier to apply in some areas than any other product available right now.



Greg L. The Noise Nazi

 

[David_VT]

What about rubber 'eveguard'

I have a roll of that 1/8" rubber sheeting that you put at the edge of a roof. One side is heat activated adhesive meant to be activated by the sunshine on a new roof.



For those doing all the research, how do you think this product will help with noise reduction? I figured to put it on the backwall and floor of the cab and then use a heat gun to activate the glue.



Waste of time or what?





Pretty cheap compared to the sound products I've read about in the thread. Also at places like home depot.



On the other hand, seeing how much surface rust is starting to show under my cab and how much water I've found under the cab floor, maybe I should bite the bullet and have LINUX sprayed inside and under the cab while I still have metal there...

 

[KL]

GLASMITHS, I probaly should have gotten a dB meter before I started, because it can be hard to tell where all the noise comes from exactley. I have never used one, how sensitive are they? Example: if you place one on the drivers side of the arm rest (console) would it register a change if you moved it to the passenger side, assuming there is a difference? Thanks KL

 

[GLASMITHS]

UPS brought my DB meter!!

Maybe this will bring it back up.



OK - have been playing with this thing and KL to answer your last question yes, you can get different reading from the drivers and passenger seats. This was surprising. 77db for drivers and 69db for passenger. Maybe that pipe coating or wrap did make a difference. Also, the back wall was 78db. Listen to this - the exhaust pipe - 101db below front bumper, close to truck- 102db No wonder people look All these measurements was at idle and I was just playing; will figure out how to properly measure set thing up before any more posts. Hope to get to the Noise Killer in about 2 weeks.



Later



george

 

[moparguy]

GLASMITHS, try this. Check dB's. at a constant 60mph, no load cruise, then check while coasting at 60 with the trans in neutral.



I did this the other day and only saw a 2 db difference. Interesting.



Ronnie

 

[Lsfarm]

Iceshield

Hi David VT I have used the iceshield material, and it does work fairly well. But the amount of labor to remove the interior, and apply the iceshield is the same as applying lead sheet or the other materials. The iceshield is not as effective as lead sheet, but as you said costs alot less.



If you do ANYTHING to the back wall and floor of the cab you will notice a reduction in exhaust pipe noise and road noise.



So since you have some iceshield, I would say go for it, apply two layers on the back wall and on the passenger side floor.



Let us know how it works out.



Greg L. The Noise Nazi