2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Noise reduction effort update

[RobertMiller1]

curious

I was thinking on what had been written on the down pipe noise source. Header wrap was mentioned, Anyone know the melting temp of lead? How about a lead wrap of the down pipe assuming melting point is not reached?

 

[GLASMITHS]

I was thinking on what had been written on the down pipe noise source. Header wrap was mentioned, Anyone know the melting temp of lead? How about a lead wrap of the down pipe assuming melting point is not reached?

I would not worry about the down pipe melting the lead. I put it on also for the intended purpose of lowering the underhood temp. If it gets hot enough to melt the lead, you might check your choke. It could be stuck.

 

[Lsfarm]

Melting point of Lead

I don't know the melting point of Lead, but the downpipe gets hot enough to melt it. and the horizontal section of the pipe under the cab also get hot enough to at least soften the lead. Then it gets all saggy and droopy.



What I did for my downpipe is to take a length of 4" straight pipe and slit it lengthwise and open it up like a big 'C' then slip it over the straight sections of the downpipe, then tack-weld it in place such that there was an 1/8" gap between the inner pipe and the new outer 'skin'. Then I wrapped the whole thing with the fiberglass header-wrap. It seemed to help.



It's been a long time since I've tackled any additional noise reduction projects on the '01, maybe it's time for some more dead dB's.

 

[GLASMITHS]

Well, I would never have thought it would get hot enough to melt the lead. The wrap did help with the heat on the floor. And noise. So I can eat that one. :{

 

[Forrest Nearing]

Greg, I think ya done killed 'em all!! :-laf

 

[Dave Zuber]

Cheap Materials

Will this thread ever die?



Here is a product that is sold for patching your roof called "Peal and Seal, Aluminum roll roofing". It is asbestos backed aluminum and weighs about 1/3 Lb/Sq Ft. (Dynamat is about 1 lb/sq ft?) It is cheap and available at Lowe's Hardware. It costs about $0. 90 /Sq Ft. It has it's own adheasive backing. Some guys on other lists claim they can't tell the differance between this and Dynamat Xtreme.



http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=154017-81326-PS625&lpage=none



The Company sells sheets up to 36" wide.

http://www.mfmbp.com/pdf/P&S Tech Info.pdf



Don't think I'd use this in extreme heat areas, like close to the exhaust, but other areas would be ok.

 

[Claw231]

Will this thread ever die?



Here is a product that is sold for patching your roof called "Peal and Seal, Aluminum roll roofing". It is asbestos backed aluminum and weighs about 1/3 Lb/Sq Ft. (Dynamat is about 1 lb/sq ft?) It is cheap and available at Lowe's Hardware. It costs about $0. 90 /Sq Ft. It has it's own adheasive backing. Some guys on other lists claim they can't tell the differance between this and Dynamat Xtreme.



http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=154017-81326-PS625&lpage=none



The Company sells sheets up to 36" wide.

http://www.mfmbp.com/pdf/P&S Tech Info.pdf



Don't think I'd use this in extreme heat areas, like close to the exhaust, but other areas would be ok.

I went and got a roll of this from Lowe's today and only put it on the back wall behind the seat. One roll gives you a enough to do the entire back wall with a little left over. There is a noticeable differance from before and after even with just taking a short drive.

 

[jandtjil]

Good find Dave!

Great price and really easy to work with. JJ

 

[John]

I added a custom ATP exhaust brake/down pipe blanket at the same time I added a custom ATP exhaust manifold/turbine housing blanket. Both of them fit quite nicely, and further reduced the sound transmission into my cab.



I intend to purchase one of the ATP hood blankets (customized for my specific application) as soon as I find the time to remove the hood for some fiberglass and paint work. Once inverted, it will be much easier to make a full-size template.



Recently, I removed the headliner and added two layers of Dynamat Xtreme, covering that with Dynamat Dynaliner (foam). In the hollow channel areas of the roof at either side, I stuffed some extra pieces of Dynamat Extreme Liner in the voids. I haven't got it all quite back together yet (I'm also in the middle of installing one of those trick rear-view mirrors from Geno's Garage), but it sure made a temperature difference inside the truck when sitting in the hot sun! Oh ya, my Ram is BLACK! One other thing, I had to modify the two retention clips to either side of the dome light as the increased thickness of the Xtreme and Dynaliner combined made it impossible for the clips to be inserted in such a way as to not leave slight wrinkles in the headliner material. I just sectioned the heads from the shafts of the clips, added a small nylon spacer to each and drilled and tapped the head/shaft of the assemblies, adding 6-32 s/s button heads to finish them off. They look trick and function quite well.



Oh yah and...



I also did my Quad doors! I added at least two layers of Dynamat Xtreme to the inside sheet metal door skin and Dynamat Extreme Liner to replace the jute felt damping material on the plastic interior Quad door panels.



Everything else on my Ram has already been treated with a heavy dose of Dynamat products or an ATP blanket of some sort... except for my valve cover. And there is no way I'm going to cover my one-off, custom chrome plated Cummins valve cover with a blanket!!!!

 

[jkidd]

lead

what do you use to glue the lead on the pan, and in the truck?



for the cab, I assume you put the lead in first then the dynamat stuff... correct?



If I just use the dampner (like fatmat/peel&seal) how many layers should be applied. I'd hate to pull everything out to not do enough. and feel the need to pull it out again.

 

[Dave Zuber]

Gluing Lead

I haven't put the lead on the oil pan yet. The plan is to use Hi-temp RTV to bond patches of lead to the flat areas. I have a cheap wood stove pipe sealer that comes in a caulking gun tube. It's rated for 700 deg f and costs under $10 a big tube.



Next I'll cover this with the vinyl/foam/alum roll material from JCW (is this the GSI stuff?) and bond it on with more RTV.



Finally, I'll cut out some strips of sheet metal, put holes in the end and attach these to the pan bolts with springs. This should keep it all in place in case the RTV decides to let go.



Anyone have an improvement on this plan?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

Liquid Nails > RTV

 

[Lsfarm]

Lead on the oil pan

I used a 'high temp' spray on contact cement on the oil pan the first time. A layer of lead, then a layer of GSI foam. Did a really nice job, formed the corners, rolled the lead onto the pan so it almost looked like it was dipped in lead.



Well the 'high temp' contact cement didn't hold very well and most of my lead and GSI foam departed a few weeks later during a high speed run on the freeway. So I had to reapply the lead and GSI. I didn't do as nice a job the second time, but added several 'bungie cords' from one side of the pan to the other. This application has lasted several years and many hours at 80+ mph.



I used regular contact cement to apply the lead sheet to the back wall and floor of the truck, first cut, roll and mold the lead sheet to the area to be covered. Then put contact cement on one surface and apply the lead sheet while the cement is wet, and roll and mold the lead to where you want it. It will stay in place. The round end of a craftsman screwdriver works really well for molding the lead sheet.



I need to do more to my noise insulation. This time of year when the temperature starts to fall, the truck seems very loud all over again. Must be the colder temps make the foam stiffer so it doesn't absorb sound as well.



I sometimes have a hard time giving a Third-Gen truck back to it's owner after a transmission job or other performance work, maybe if I win the lottery I'll get a 3rd-gen. But my '01 has only 65K on it, seems way too soon to get rid of it just for lower noise levels.





Hope this helps, Greg L. The Noise Nazi

 

[Dave Zuber]

Forrest Nerring said "Liquid Nails > RTV" ??



Are you using the Arithmetic operator 'Greater Than' to imply that Liquid Nails will hold better than RTV? Might work, don't know about the long term heat and vibration.

 

[petersonj]

You are right, the oil pan acts like an amplifier. I have siliconed an insulation product onto the oil pan. It does make a difference - it takes out some of the obnoxious hollow metallic sound, especially at idle.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

Forrest Nerring said "Liquid Nails > RTV" ??



Are you using the Arithmetic operator 'Greater Than' to imply that Liquid Nails will hold better than RTV? Might work, don't know about the long term heat and vibration.

yes, it will, and you can look at the temp ratings on the side of the tube... it's still holding up just fine... made it through another Dallas summer with stacks right behind the cab...

 

[fox]

I'd like to add that I insulated the cowl, over the weekend and can really tell it!! It is like I have a head cold or my ears need to pop from an elevation change. Now I can hear the noise from the back wall and the noise at the bottom of the doors. This weekend they get treated.

I will try to find the part numbers of the products I've used, and post them. They are from JC Whitney.

 

[rubberneck]

fox how did you do the cowl?? did you remove the plastic grid above and do the inside of the cowl, or the bottom. If the inside, do we need to worry about the insulation holding water and causing rust or mold. what product did you use? thanks

 

[fox]

Remove the plastic cover, clean and inspect the cowl for dirt/rust.

I have a product from JC Whitney, cm158486, it is a sound /heat insulation. I used the 1/2 inch thick material.

I cut a scrap pc, to trial fit it up under the windshield for a patern. Then cut it and used some construction glue ( liquid Nails works ) and installed it . Make sure you don't block off the air intake for the heater etc. Then did the same for the outer area where the wiper arms are. Make sure the water can drain out.

The part number I listed was enough for the cowl. Get the larger size if doing more area. CM158488. $35 and $62 respectively.

It is hard to believe the factory left this area open to resonate the Cummins. I only turn the volume a little ( less than a 1/4 turn) from a stopped at idle, to a 60 mph run. Note too that my truck has the Catcher with full timing!! It rattles more than stock. At least outside now!!!

 

[rubberneck]

Thanks for the info, I am preparing to rip the entire interior out of my truck and go to town with the insulation. I bought a ton of dynamat/dynaliner before reading this thread, sounds like you guys all sourced some less expensive products. Figures, thats what i get for not doing my research. Any way, the cowl got me interested, because with the B1 turbo, i seem to get a lot of whistle, and it sounds like it is coming from right behind the radio.



PS. I posted this on another thread, but got no response. How hard is it to remove the headliner on an 01 quad cab. I plan on leaving this for last cause im kind of worried about pulling it. thanks in advance Phil