Noise Reduction

[HoleshotHolset]

Yup... . been there, done that!

I hate those #@$%! clips!!



Matt

 

[Joel Richards]

Damn! How did I know that someone was going to say that... :{



Time to go the the dealer and buy a box I s'pose



Thanks for the info... BTW, does the headliner have the same issues??



Joel

 

[JGK]

Joel,



I used the b-quiet stuff on the doors. The extreme, I think (not original, and not the brown bread). After removing the trim panel, I removed the plastic sheeting that covers the door. Then cut strips and 8, 10, or 12 inches wide and stuck it down. I think it helped a little.



The clips are not that bad, really. Get yourself one of those flat pry-bar tools for pulling nails at your local hardware store. Just slip it under or as close as you can to the clip and pry it out. They will deform a bit but I've been able to re-use all of mine. You can buy a few from the dealership for spares if you're inclined.



-Jay

 

[Lsfarm]

Importing Lead

Powder Extreme: No I had no issues with importing the lead. I just called Canada Metals, and gave them my credit card #. My cost with shipping to Michigan was $199 US. This was for two 4'x8'sheets.



The Lead must be glued in place, this can be a PITA.



I've used all the products mentioned in this thread, and the lead and the GSI products are the best and most cost effective.



Joel: how much per square ft is that B-quiet? GSI's panel deadener [same type product] is about $24 per 32"x54" sheet about $2 per sq ft.



Jay, I wouldn't remove the factory sound blankets, they are made of that fiberous soft molded 'board' that once bent kind of looses it's shape. What I did was to cut pieces of the 1/2" soundstop foam and slide them behind the factory blankets. Then I opened up the intake trough at the base of the windshield, and added foam to the backside of the firewall where I couldn't get access from the engine side of the firewall.



Hope this answers the questions. Greg L

 

[HoleshotHolset]

On older trucks the clips are brittle and break... . so if your truck is newer you might get lucky!



JGK is right... if you use a 'crow bar' they will come right out. Don't forget about the special tool you might need..... but only if you have 'Armstrong Power Windows'... . the tool is needed to pop out the little clip that keeps the window crank handle on... .



I've never had my headliner down... . not YET anyway!



Matt

 

[Powder Extreme]

Goober & LsFarm, what kind of glue did you use for the lead? Did you put stuff above your headliner? Do you think it's worth it?



I bought 3 rolls today for around $132, not sure about the exact exchange rate. I'm thinking about buying 4 or 5 rolls just to have since it's not that expensive. I'm going to be going through Montreal right where they are at next weekend, so no shipping costs



I'd even be willing to pick up a few more rolls for somebody else if they wanted to meet me along the highway on my way home. (Provided I have the room, not sure if I'm taking my slide in yet or not)



Jerry

 

[Powder Extreme]

Also, would this stuff work for putting under the hood? Maybe wrapping the valvecovers, putting against the underside of the hood, wrapping the oil pan etc?

 

[Lsfarm]

Locations

Powder Extreme, I think the lead will be a good product for the oilpan and valve cover. I have to drop part of my oilpan blanket to drain the oil soon, so I will probably try glueing some lead to the oil pan while it is uncovered.



I'm really fearful of trying to remove and replace the headliner without damaging it. As much of a noise nazi as I am, I still don't think I will tackle the headliner.



The floor and back wall and corners are huge radiators of noise, both road noise and exhaust pipe noise [not the same as exhaust noise]. I think the lead sheet is the perfect product for these locations.



I don't think the hood springs will support the extra weight of the lead sheet. You sure don't want the hood to come down on you when you're reaching to the very back of the engine to change an injector!!



I'll post on how well the lead works on the oilpan.



Greg L

 

[Ethdee]

People keep mentioning lead. Do you really mean lead, as in the element that can cause irritability, stomachaches, poor appetite, diarrhea, colic, distractibility, lethargy, mood swings, severe abdominal pain, headaches, loss of motor coordination, kidney and neurological damage, anemia, hypertension, impotence, sterility, and miscarriages?



Jim

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Yeah, that's the stuff.....

Just don't eat it and you'll be all set... .



Matt

 

[RedRamer]

Powder.

Use Contact Cement, buy a pint or two. DON'T use it as they say to. They say apply to both sides and wait till dry... NADA...

When you put these pieces down, you have to move them into possition, roll them down to the shape of the metal and also hammer down the sharp curves.

I got a small 3" plastic roller and rolled the glue on both sides and right away put it down and shaped it. I also only used pieces cut about 2' square. 3 across the front, 3 across back panel, 3-5 pcs on side 1/4 panels. The only large pcs I put in was a long one over the passenger side from foot area to under rear seat. Heavy stuff to try and move with glue on both sides!!!



I wouldn't bother with the liner... I don't hear any noise comming from it.

And if the l-e-a-d word bothers you, give it a coat of house paint before closing up the insides.



LSfarm . . how you gonna glue that to the oil pan? be a darn shame to bring the noise level down to a Phord:{

 

[Lsfarm]

Cummins 'Chuckle'

Goober: LOL Quiet as a Phord? Not a chance!



I really like the Cummins 'Chuckle', I just don't like being 'Bruised and Battered' by it!



I stopped on the road the other day to talk with my neighbor who has a Powerstroke. We were headed in opposite directions, so we stopped drivers door to drivers door, with our windows down to chat. My cummins was still quite a bit louder than that sewing machine in the Phord. My truck sounded pretty good, his truck sounded like a swarm of bees.



I bought some high temp laminating spray contact cement from GSI. Expensive but seems to go a long way.



I covered the oil pan, and changed the sound of a screwdriver tapping on the side of the pan from a "ting, ting" sound to a "thunk, thunk" sound.



The unprotected pan radiated sound at 102dB!! With the layer of lead, it radiated at 92-93dB. then I put my pan blanket back on and the pan now reads 90dB. All these readings in my shop on a concrete floor.



Wheelwell readings went from 96-98 db down to 87-89dB.



Goober: going to Muncie?



Ethdee: ever heard of being 'mad as a Hatter?' There was some lead based product used in the hat making industry that make all the workers crazy. They breathed the vapors or inhaled dust, can't remember for sure.



Too late for me!! I was crazy before I ever touched any lead. !!



Seriously, Kat has it right, don't ingest lead, and it is virtually harmless. All white paint up until the '70's used lead for the pigment. The only danger was if kids ate the paint off their cribs or window sills. Mechanics used leaded gasoline to wash parts for decades. My father recalls 'wet sanding' a car for a repaint in the '30's with gasoline to remove wax and road oils. He says it was common practice.



Greg L

 

[Doc Tinker]

That looks real good, LSFarm



Doc

 

[zjones]

Installed $600 worth of dynamat Xtreme on my inside firewall, floor & back wall. got a 4 db reduction (tire noise greaty reduced

as well as ext. noise) still hear that ctd rattle Oo. Oo.



Now my $5000+ sound sys. sounds great!!

 

[Lsfarm]

Goober's photos

Goober sent me some photos of his truck cab as he was installing a layer of 1/32" thick lead. this weighs 2# per square foot, and adds considerable density to the panels.



He asked me to post these for him.



Notice the foam box behind the speaker, to help block noise from coming thru the speaker diaphram. good idea Denis.



I hope I have this figured out!



Great job Denis!!

 

[Lsfarm]

Goober's front floor

Here is the finished floor on Denis' truck.



I see Denis has a rubber backed insulation blanket on his truck [a '97 I think]. My '96 truck had a blanket like this, but my 2001 truck has no floor insulation except what I added, no wonder my truck sounded like a tin can!!

 

[Lsfarm]

Goober's back wall

This photo shows how Denis shaped and sculpted the lead sheet to the back wall's shape. He used contact cement wet on the wall and the lead sheet, positioned the sheet when wet, and used a roller and molded the lead to the panel. .



This lead sheet costs less than half the price of any of the 'dynamat' or 'brown bread' type panel deadeners, plus it is more effective because it adds a lot more mass to the panel.

 

[vc]

soundstop.com

I got an order in to Don at GSI and he sent me some of the half inch foam and some of the sound deadner that's similar to the dynamat and b-quiet products. I totally covered the back wall and floor ,and firewall about 3/4 covered. I laid down the deadner first and shaped it with a little heat from a hair dryer so it would easily mold into all the dips and such. Then I covered over that with the foam. One tip here for when you re install the interior. Don't take the foam to the very edge at the rear wall. I did and just could not force the back panel back on. So I cut out about a 2 inch strip along the rear and then with a little coercing got all the interior back in.

I have no meter, but I can definitely tell it is a little quieter. I still have material left, so I will try to put it along the firewall outside, and maybe along the bottom of the cab as well.

vc

 

[MikeBeggy]

JGK, I talked to lsfarm (Greg) before I started. I cut pieces to fit over the bare metal areas anywhere I could see unprotected firewall. Also,placed a "seal" where the hood contacts the top of the cowl, along the front edge of both doors and basically anywhere I could see a path for sound to come toward the cab. I used the spray adhevive that came with the soundstop foam to glue the pieces to the firewall. It actually went pretty well and looks very neat.

 

[Lsfarm]

Work on the firewall

Hi vc, I found the area around the steering column to be a big transmitter of noise. There is an aluminum casting supporting the steering column on the inside of the cab, and bare metal on the engine side of the casting, so there is nothing insulating this area so it picks up and radiates all the noise from the engine right into your lap.



I just cut pieces of foam to fit around the braces and brackets, cut slots in the foam to go around wiring. A bit of trim adhesive will hold the foam in place.



Use some foam around the floor shift if you have one. The floor of the cab radiates a lot of road and exhaust pipe noise. Some panel deadener on the floor was effective in my truck.



Are you trying to quiet the engine or just insulate the cab from road and engine noise?



Hope this helps. Greg L



Photo: My almost unrecognizable Cummins.