Competition Nos

[Swayse]

OK, here we go. First I blew up my turbo, and now I got me a cool Bell USB turbo(thanks Ron A)and now I bought a nice used NOS kit. I haven't even started installing the NOS kit yet, I'm a bit nervous about it. How hard is this laughing gas on everything? How big of a shot can I run and not blow my head gasket? I know I'm already pushing it with my boost now at 50 psi. Should I turn the boost down when I run the squeeze? What size jet do I need to run for a 20hp shot, 50, 75, 100? I'm gonna install the kit, fill the bottle and take it to the strip on a trailer, so If I blow the head gasket it's not that big of a deal.



Where does a guy buy the marine head gaskets? Think I'll buy one and have it ready just in case. Or I might just go a head and oring the head after it blows, but I'd like to wait until summer to oring the head.

 

[willyslover]

don't use it on stock non O ringed head unless you want a blow out at your current boost level your on the edge now... NOS is hard on things

don't forget to add studs when you do the O ring

 

[catoiler]

Run a 100 jet it should be fine. The nice thing about NOS is that if you go to big it will just put out the flame, Not like on a gasser where it will scatter things. I would back the boost down to about 40psi. I ran it on my other truck and it had a stock head gasket and put over 20 bottles through it and no problems.

 

[BCarmicle]

Will NOS hurt the engine in anyway?



Brandon

 

[catoiler]

Not unless you scatter a turbo!Another nice thing about it is it cools down the intake temp. We have run this on a twin turboed 8V92 Detroit for about 8yrs. The thing runs 11. 50's in a 62 Pete narrow nose.

 

[KLockliear]

Wow, look at these responses.



First, if you're not sure, DON'T DO IT. Dyno testing/tuning it would be the best way to go at it, preferably with an operator that has done it before.



Start with the smallest jet you have. Something around a 40 jet to start. That should be about 50hp or so. Jet up until the smoke almost clears up. That leaves a little margin for higher bottle pressures, cooler temps, etc.



The hit of nitrous is hard on parts, especially if you are already making good power. The USB should handle it fine though, from what I have heard.



With your stock gasket, keep the boost under 55psi to be safe. 60psi is pushing it. You will see a boost increase when you get on the button.



Turn the boost down if you have to, but that will depend on how much you end up getting out of the N2O.



Marine head gaskets are available from Cummins. We made 740hp with N2O and #2 with a stock headed/stock head gasket 2001 24v at 55psi. No problems.

 

[Swayse]

My nos kit has a bottle heater and a guage, not bad for $300 huh. I'm gonna try it, I'm gonna turn down the boost with my cool little regulator and add nos as needed. I'll let you know what happens.

 

[sbentz]

We run a . 090" orifice at WOT and then a bit more in 3rd gear in the dragster. Keith is right: Start small, clean up the smoke, and stop there. We have gone bigger, and shut the engine off during initial hit off the line... White smoke, and dead. Embarrasing.

 

[BCarmicle]

Would a Cummins marine head be better or cheaper than getting my stock one ported and o-ringed? Anybody got a price on the marine head?



Brandon

 

[catoiler]

sbentz,During the test stages we put it on it's face more times than we cared to but when it was tuned look out!We don't hit it until about the 60' mark and with 4 slicks it still want's to brake them loose!

 

[Strick-9]

Swayse,



After having driven your truck, I think you will probably end up with about a . 070 or . 080 jet, if the turbo stays together.



But like Keith, I wouldn't start with more than about . 040 or . 050.



When you get serious about getting your times lower you need to add a progressive controller to the mix. I've blown up more than my share of parts with nitrous experiments. The progressive controller eliminates ALL the headaches and traction problems.



Rather than waiting until the 60' mark to turn the nitrous on, you can actually arm the system as soon as you launch and have the nitrous fully on at the 60'. My truck used to cut 1. 9 to 1. 95 60' times and traction was sporadic. Sometimes it would hook, sometimes it would hop. Once I added the nitrous controller, all those issues were solved. I now cut 1. 74-1. 78 60' times with NO traction issues. The only reason I haven't gone faster is because I'm not willing to launch higher than 20 psi until I get a billet output shaft in my transmission.



The turbos quit blowing through the hood also.



Be careful of the advice you get from some members. Remember they aren't paying for your broken parts.



Hope that helps,

Chris

 

[catoiler]

Chris,On my 96 with 370's#4plate and timing at 18deg. With a 50 jet it did not make that big of differance. Went to a 90 and still had lots of smoke. Went to a 125 jet and it was still a light haze. You are right I should have asked how much fuel he was putting in. Sometimes I get ahead of myself. We ran the boost at 40lbs and had no problems.

 

[KLockliear]

Cat, also be aware that the jet may NOT be the smallest orifice in the system.

 

[catoiler]

Keith,I forgot what solinoid we used but it was big and

-6 line. My kid set it up with parts off his stang and it was I think a 450 kit.

 

[Swayse]

Hey Chris, nice to hear from you. I really didn't want to go nitrous I wanted to stay on all diesel, but all i'm building is smoke and heat. 403 rwhp and 918 torque uncorrected for a 13. 9 at 95 with a 1. 76 60'. Not at all happy with the times, but those were with the DD turbo, this Bell USB feels like it flows more, not as much smoke. I got two jets given to me by the guy that filled my bottle, . 035 and . 046, I'll try the little one first. I got a little Hobbs switch that turns on the spray at 36 psi, and a little light that tells me when the solinoid is on. Took out the cup holder and got a plate made to fit with all my switches. I put my little LED light that tells me when the nitrous is flowing, right next to my boost gauge. I had to take the guages off anyway to fix a crimped boost line.

 

[Strick-9]

cat,



Your numbers seem really out of line with what I'm used to seeing. For example, I've seen a . 056 jet dyno almost 100 hp and gain 7 mph in the 1/4 mile which backs up the dyno runs. Nozzle placement and distribution make a BIG difference. On my personal truck a single . 080 jet made 126 HP.



I started out running NOS products. I worked with one of the NOS tech's and ran the orifices that they recommended for 100 hp gain. I ran dual NOS solenoids rated at 175 HP EACH. I dyno'd 22 HP with that setup. I eventually switched over to NX solenoids and couldn't believe the difference in power and nitrous flow.



With NX solenoids I have run a . 110 jet and an . 80 jet which is equivalent to about . 136 single jet. I could only get two complete 1/4 mile runs on a 10 lb bottle. By the third run my heater couldn't keep the bottle pressure up.



HP ratings given by the manufacturers are just hype to sell products. A dyno and some track time tell the real story.





-Chris

 

[KLockliear]

Originally posted by Strick-9

cat,



With NX solenoids I have run a . 110 jet and an . 80 jet which is equivalent to about . 136 single jet. I could only get two complete 1/4 mile runs on a 10 lb bottle. By the third run my heater couldn't keep the bottle pressure up.



HP ratings given by the manufacturers are just hype to sell products. A dyno and some track time tell the real story.

-Chris

Yep, NX stuff is the best. Chris, how much were you gaining on the dyno with those two stages? We were gaining about 160rwhp with a . 092 jet on the white truck.

 

[catoiler]

The nozzle was under the air horn and the solenoid was mounted in the cab with the bottle in the rear floor. You had to look pretty close to see it had NOS. The kid used to street race it till he got busted!When I see him I will ask him what solenoid was in it.