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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV4500 Transmission Failure

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Easy Edge????

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Gentlemen:



My 1998. 5 2500 Quadcab 4x4 CTD NV4500 transmission failed at 190,000 miles. No real noise or warning that I noticed except I was going over Donner Summit on Interstate 80 when I lost 5th gear. When I arrived in Truckee, CA, I discoverd that I no longer had 1st, 2nd, 3rd or Reverse either!



It appears to be a catastrophic failure. I have not removed the transmission from the truck yet. I am confused, however, about the options to repair the transmission:



1) Some commentators suggest that the availability of New Venture parts for the the transmission are limited. Where does one obtain the necessary quality parts for a good rebuild?



2) If one is to purchase a rebuilt transmission, how do they obtain quality parts?



3) What other options are available for this transmission replacement?



The vehicle is strictly stock. I do some light trailer towing but not excessive (less than 5000# in trailer weight). I am the only driver of the truck and try to drive and maintain the truck within its operating limits.



Thanks in advance for your comments.



Mark Young
 
you will be fine. there are a lot of aftermarket companies that make 4500 parts.

2) see above

3) a quality rebuilder pretty much that you have researched and like.
 
Its the 5600 that is limited in avaialability. I had blumenthals do mine. I would recomend them or standard transmission. Also make sure you get the upgraded shft for 5th gear when you do it. I would also add a trans temp gauge. I blew mine up due to the oil leaking out and figure if i had a gauge I would have noticed it running hot
 
Gentlemen:



Thank you for your prompt responses. Does any after-market manufacturer of NV4500 parts stand out above the rest? I am deathly afraid of the "China Syndrome" where the parts manufactured overseas look ok but perform like junk.



I am not looking for a gold-plated rebuild either--just good quality at a reasonable price.



Thanks again.



M. A. Young
 
Quad 4x4 has quality parts, as mentioned before standard transmission and blumethals also do quality work. I've used both standard transmission fully splined shaft and a erebuilt unit from blumenthals was vey happy with both. Only problrm with blumenthals was returning the core, after 3 or 4 phone calls i decided to let them keep the core charge and I would keep the transmission. Quad 4x4 is only made in america stuff. not sure about the other 2





http://quad4x4.com/NV4500 Rebuild Kits.htm



Standard Transmission & Gear



The Blumenthal Companies - Transmissions, Engines, Drivelines and all Powertrain Products
 
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Gentlemen:



I have made a decision on the tranmission:



1) I will remove the transmission myself and take it in for evaluation to see if it can be rebuilt in an economically. Tanscraft Transmissions in Reno, NV will be doing the evaluation.



2) If the NV4500 cannot be rebuilt, I have found a unit from a wrecked 1999 3500 that appears to be in decent shape. I will have that unit evaluated before installation.



3) Clutch and associated bearings will be replaced.



Any estimate on the total number of hours for removal? I think a shop with good skills and equipment would need about four hours. I am planning for 10-12 hours given my skills and limited (but functional) tools.



I will keep you posted.
 
I can have one on the ground in a little over an hour by myself. Add to that time to remove the bellhousing and separate it from the transfer case. It may take you 4 hours, I doubt much more just to get it out.
 
Took me 3 months to get mine in and out... But then again I had another car and only had the time to work on it for half an hour every few days... .

Last time probably took me 6 - 8 hours for the whole thing. Its a real pain to get the transmission back up and in when your laying on your back by yourself
 
you will lose fifth gear luke sky walker

Lost fifth gear in my nv4500 back in november08. Pulled trans new years eve. Took trans to DTR trans shop in chandler In. They changed main shaft,updated fifth gear and nut,also changed synchronizers. With help from a friend Replaced clutch with mu0090rally from south bend clutch, put back together last weekend. Refilled trans and road tested, everything seems ok except a little hard to find gears when at dead stop. Maybe need to upgrade hydraulics not sure. I will figure out and check back later.
 
I just began the steps necessary to remove the transmission. I think that it will take a good 8 hours for me to perform the task. I have to clean off nearly 11 years of gunk to get the the various nuts and bolts. Not all nuts and bolts feel like cooperating.



In draining the gear oil from the transfer case and the transmission, I was expecting about 3 quarts to come from the transfer case. The capacity is 6. 5 pints (3. 25 quarts). I was quite surprised when I drained over 5 quarts for oil from the transfer case.



The transmission drained out about 1. 5 quarts. The capacity is 4 quarts. This is from a transmission with no obvious leaks. No visible leaks from the transfer case either.



I took off the PTO cover just to have a peak. The gears appear to be turing freely.



I'm off to get some more nitrile gloves.



Regards,



M. Young
 
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hmm maybe it overheated and thats what cuased the failure. . How did the fluid in te t-case look like? Maybe the seal went bad in the transmission and began pumping into the t-case.
 
The fluid in the transfer case had the viscosity of Mercon ATF but it had a not quite red color to it. I am thinking that, as M Shaheen suggests, that perhaps the transmission gear oil leaked into the transfer case. It is my understanding that that is a real possibility with a bad rear housing on the NV4500.



Request for urgent info. I know that it is the middle of the Super Bowl, however, how does one remove the 4 bolts on the propeller shaft falange where shaft connects to the transfer case. I cannot get a socket onto the bolt head and a I cannot get enough leverage with a crowsfoot. Suggestions?



M. Young
 
I always drop the transmission, transfer case and bellhousing as a unit. This is not a problem with a transmission jack.

The easiest separation under the trucks is at the back of the transmission, where the cast iron meets the aluminum. These bolts require a 12 point 10mm socket. Then are loctited from the factory and be carefull not to strip the heads.

There is a seal at the front of the transfer case that could go bad but the oil will in no way "pump" into the transfer case.

You should find synthetic gear oil in the transmission and ATF in the transfer case.

The transmission should have a square magnet on the inside of the driver side PTO cover. The transfer case has a screen at the suction (located right behind the drain plug) and used a pressurized lube system.

Sorry if that reads choppy, just trying to cover the high points.

-Scott
 
Today's update:



I begain to follow the Dodge Service Manual instructions for removing the drive shafts, tranfer case and tranmission. I would like to note the following:



1) No way are you going to remove this transmission in an hour. It took me an hour just to place the truck on jack stands.



2) I had greater difficulty in removing the drive shafts than the simple one sentence instruction would suggest. The four bolts holding the front shaft to the transfer case falange where difficult. Solution: Shallow 16mm socket on a knuckle from Sears. It also took a 16 mm box wrench that was placed on the top most bolt. This held the shaft in place while I used the 18" breaker bar to break the bolts free. You have to do one bolt at a time. Not an easy task.



3) The rear shaft was a little easier but still a handful. I unbolted the entire center bracket from the frame rather than just the lower section of the support. The small 8 mm bolts holding the rear u-joint in place were a pain the break free given the years of conditioning.



4) The transfer case is now ready to come out. Given my limited space and jacking tools, I have to split the transfer case from the transmission.



5) Tomorrow I will build a couiple of platforms for the jack to support the engine pan. The transfer case comes out first then I will attack the transmission. The biggest challenge appears to be the rear cross member.





Regards,



M. Young
 
have fun with the crossmember after gettng the bolts out yiu have to beat it forwards or backwads I think it was towards the front it will no go in or out straight up or down don't be afraid to use a large hammer. I was lucky as all my nuts and bolts came out easy. you can just use a large block of wood on a jack or jack stand under the engines oil pan to support it
 
Perhaps a little late now but there is no need to separate the front driveline from the transfer case. Loose from the differential and the shaft can go with the t-case.

Up and rearward with the crossmember is the easiest. A mentioned above, it's on a taper and will not drop straight down.
 
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