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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV5600 clutch problem for a few minutes

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lift Pumps and the NHTSA

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Success!!!

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Had a wierd thing happen today while driving empty. Only happened for a few minutes... . The clutch would not disengage at a stop. Could not get into any gear whatsoever, When I tried to put in gear when engine off and restart, with clutch on the floor, the truck creeped forward... .



Have a SBC CON-OFE with not much miles on it an not many miles towing so I highly doubt anything is wrong with the clutch itself... has plenty of hold and I can shift ok RPM shifting... Have Redline MTL fluid in the transmission and maybe like 20,000 or so on the fluid... have to check the book... .



So at a light, tried to go into 2nd for a normal take off (empty) and could not go in, did the engine off and crank-start... for 3 lights and lucky on a few greens timing them, then, Miraculously, the clutch worked again, engaging like half-way up like normal and worked ok all the way home... ...



Was this a fluke or is it a sign of things to come... . Have read alot of threads about replacing the slave and some have had leaks and some the level was low... .

Mine seems perfect,

No leaks

Fluid full

Fluid clean

Slave tight to the transmission... no gaps... .



On the guys that replaced the slave they mention bleeding by taking off the slave and working the pushrod several times to purge any air that might be in the system... Do you think this would help on my truck with seemingly good fluid and level?



I need imediate advice as I am going to may Madness in Vegas towing my trailer so any help is apreciated.



Eric
 
I sure hope your pilot bearing isn't going T. U. - that will keep rotating the input shaft, causing what yours is doing, and often eventually siezes up and breaks the front part off the shaft...
 
When the clutch is in and in gear right now, there is no noise accoc. with pilot bearing... Just checked the transmission fluid and it is full and looks clean from the fill hole... . Runs out when I remove the plug...



Pumped the pedal a hundred times and started it up in gear and it tries to engage about half-way like normal... Go to neutral, clutch out for several seconds, clutch in, go into gear pretty good like it always has. A little notchy but has always did that... when go to neutral again and clutch out, you hear the engine catch to spin up the transmission No noise from the Bearing, had door open, just engine sound... . Did that several times in the driveway... . Seems to be operating like it did before... . Pumped the pedal several more times... seems to have about stock feel on the resistance...
 
Mine acted up for several months before it finally gave out. It would slowly leak down with the pedal on the floor and the truck would move if it were in gear. One very cold morning it would not engage at all. In my case I don't believe there was anything wrong with the slave cylinder - I would guess that there was a leak past a seal in the master cylinder. Fluid looked good and no leaks since it was an internal leak. I replaced the master and slave (factory part is all one piece - replacement comes as separate pieces) and haven't had any trouble since. Not a bad job and to my surprise I didn't have to bleed it (good thing because there is no provision for it. )



I suspect yours may be similar with a tear in a seal or other internal issues. You CAN drive the truck by matching speeds and shifting carefully if it happens again, but it will get hairy in traffic or stop and go driving. Good luck.
 
This happened in the afternoon after some freeway driving and some downtown driving with 5 people iside and stuff so if it happened right away in the morning, I would say OK but it wasn't... . I think Steve's explanation is the what might be happening... . Hope it lasts past the MM 05
 
Update on Testing

Well Today, we have guests over from Germany and we took a ride to the mountains and other sights... . Some Town Stop Lights, stop and go and freeway shifting and mountain driving..... Pretty much did all types of conditions in 140 miles today... .



Except for 1 or 2 times where it was really notchy to get into gear, it didn't creep foraward and was able to be in gear at a light... . After several miles and driving a while it seemed to get better... . My truck sits for a week at a time and I think it just needed to be drivin and worked in... . Seems to work like always so I will keep an eye on it but I might be in for a new hydraulic system soon... .



I will be at May Madness in the RV park in a Keystone Raptor trailer... If any have ideas or comments then BS with me then.



Thanks for the replies.
 
I would agree with the pilot bearing going out. I had a similar experience at a rest stop. I let truck idle while I took care of business. I got in the truck, pushed in the clutch but I could not put it in gear. Pushed in clutch again everything felt normal, still would not engage. Shut off motor, put it in first, pushed in clutch, started motor, fortunately I parked in a drive through spot, truck lurched forward, hit the brakes, truck stopped with motor idling. I never had any trouble after. I chose to ignore the clues. When I did pull the transmission the pilot bearing, input shaft and SB clutch had to be replaced.



I would recommend pulling the transmission to check the pilot bearing.

Stan
 
I vote for the pilot bearing also.

My jeep clutch made a couple grinding noises one day when I put it in gear, then was fine for a few days. Then it made the noises again, then would not go into gear. I decided to pull the transmission and check the clutch, suspecting the pilot bearing. Sure enough, no needles left in the bearing.

I think it depends on the oreintation of the input shaft and pilot bearing, sometimes it's OK and sometimes it's not.
 
I put on around 30,000 miles after that incident. I was hauling RV's at the time and did not want the down time. I was waiting for other symptoms to occur such as any sound when I had the clutch disengaged at a stop light. I did notice only at the very end that the NV5600 did not shift as smooth. I am not trying to scare you, but the cost of pulling the transmission is far cheaper even if the pilot bearing is okay, then to wait too long and be faced with my situation. I would recommend doing this at the earliest convenient time.



I would think if you do pull the transmission you should replace the pilot bearing even if it is okay. Those with more experience might say otherwise. I am not an expert. I know just enough to get me into trouble!!

Stan
 
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