2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission OEM 7 Way Trailer Plug

[rjrkihap]

In order to make a "good" connection and have all my lights and trailer brakes work, I end up wedging a dime between my trailer plug and my trucks trailer plug outlet. Without the dime, the trailer plug sags downward under the pressure of the trailer plug outlets spring loaded cover/cap. It's really a pain at times trying to get all the lights/signals to work. It has also affected both my trucks and even after installing a OEM replacement outlet.



Anyone else with this problem? Any other suggestions?



Thanks



Ron

 

[JLandry]

Ron,

Have you tried replacing the 7-way plug?

Maybe a newer one would make better and more consistent contact with the outlet. Replacement plugs are sold just about everywhere... for sure at any chain auto parts store.

John L.

 

[fest3er]

In order to make a "good" connection and have all my lights and trailer brakes work, I end up wedging a dime between my trailer plug and my trucks trailer plug outlet. Without the dime, the trailer plug sags downward under the pressure of the trailer plug outlets spring loaded cover/cap. It's really a pain at times trying to get all the lights/signals to work. It has also affected both my trucks and even after installing a OEM replacement outlet.



Anyone else with this problem? Any other suggestions?



Thanks



Ron

Whichever unit (plug or socket) has the 'spring' pins that make the friction/electrical joint, take it apart and spread the contacts a little more. And carefully.



Or drill a hole in the bottom of the socket and install a stainless steel machine screw with a big knurled head and a dull, flat point. And a knurled locknut. Insert the plug, tighten the screw to raise the plug, then tighten the locknut and lock the screw in place.



Or put a hefty clamp around the socket and tighten until the vertical sloppiness is gone.

 

[jelag]

The quality of the 7 pin plug used on RV applications is about 15% the quality of the 7 pin plug used on class 8 trucks... I find that we change the plug on our trailers every 12-14 months and the female plug on the truck every year or so...

There are only 3-4 manufactures of these plugs... we've thought about moving to the truck plug but to date haven't done it. . I'm guessing that before I retire I'll make the change... but you can't walk into Autozone, Wal-Mart etc and just buy one if you damage it... (Class 8 plug)

We do use dielectric grease on our plugs to help them slide together and keep some of the moisture out of them... .

Its all about cost... the RV design is available for usually under $8 or so and I've seen them as low as $3. 49 where the truck design is usually $12-15... . of course this is an all steel housing and round pins that are plated. .

 

[budnate]

sounds a little like the trailer wire is a little heavy and causing part of the problem, why not start out with a new plug and rig up a strap with a hook to help hold the wireing at the bumper and take some of the load off the connections?

 

[rjrkihap]

Thank you all.



Yes, the Dodge supplied "socket" is the culprit. I have replaced the socket several times (purchasing them from Dodge) but shortly thereafter, the soft plastic design and the spring-loaded cap push the trailer plug downward causing a bad connection.



I really like the idea about installing a screw. That seems like a permanent fix to my cheap "dime/wedge" approach.



I also have seen the Class 8 plugs. They are a much better design than the Class 7 plugs the industry (RV, Horse Trailer, Utility Trailer) has chosen to adopt.



I too have tried bending and cleaning the "blade" connection points. But with the cheap housing Dodge has supplied with their sockets, the plug is still being forced downward by the tension created within the spring-loaded cap. If the housing were metal or a more rigid plastic, the plug would fit much more securely.



Thanks again everyone.



Ron

 

[MVieira]

rjrkihap, If it makes you feel any better, I've always had the same problem with the factory 7 pin mounted on the hitch on my '02. It seems I always have to play with it and spread the pins to get the trailer lights to work on any pull type trailer I tow. I have a 7 pin in the bed that I added in for my 5th wheel and I never have trouble with that one.
Regards, Mike.

 

[Extreme1]

Just to be sure... You are pushing the plug in all the way and "hooking" the cap onto the back of the plug, right? That little lip is there to hold the plug up and in and prevent the problem you're having.



Try spreading the pins and hooking the plug, that might fix it. I used to tow a lot and had to replace a receiver due to corrosion but that's it.

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

Before beating up the poor Dodge plug try cleaning up or changing out the trailer plug. Some of the plugs have dual spring contacts - making contact on both sides of the spade in the trucks socket. Some have only one wimpy curved blade. These blades will attract insects and also will bend to where the connection is poor.

 

[travis97cummins]

Ive gone to the class 8 plugs, 100 times better than any other plug out their. I constantly had problems before. I made the switch 3 years ago not one problem since. It aint a cheep conversion, i went with plugs on both the trucks and the trailer and a coiled strech cord to connect the 2. Now if somebody borrows the trailer and dont have the right plug their is now cord to hang and get ground off by the road

 

[rjrkihap]

Travis,

That's the problem with switching to an 8 Way plug. Every other trailer I come across is either 7way or 4way (some 6way). At least Dodge was nice enough to give us the 4way adapter. If only the socket side been constructed of harder plastic or metal, we wouldn't have this issue. As a side note, the Chevy's in the family don't share this issue with me. ?.

Ron