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Oil filter wrench

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LOL, gotsoot never tried to remove one has he gentlemen?



I remember a discussion about using air chisels on the flange, lol.



Machined aluminum billet to mirror the filter profile and a 1/2" square drive broached in the end.

I can do a 50 piece run on these billet wrenches for $30. 00 ... ... ... ploblem is selling them, any takers?



Even at that, material is 50% of gross and not very good business practice, I prefer to operate at 30% max.
 
It's been this way for years

Cummins is well aware of the Incredible Hulk Filter Installer thing, this is been an issue for many years. My 2001's first filter was horrible, ripped the filter in two before it came off!



This truck's virgin filter came off fine.



I don't mess with the Geno's wrench piece. I use the Non 3rd Gen Stratapore filters and use my metal band oil filter wrench to remove mine, grabbing it from above it's a snap (once you pop the turbo intake hose off).



Vaughn
 
I don't know about geno's but I bought one that I'm sure is about the same from K-mart, it was a one piece with a nut type piece used for driving it. At first I tried to use that stupid square hole in the middle at the end of just a plain extension which quickly resulted in the hole stripping and letting the extension turn. Of course then I notice the nut piece that I should have been using and got the right size socket (1 1/8" ?) to use on that. This is the same exact scenario on the fuel filter canister I realize then. With the new socket in place I proceed to twist the filter wrench on the filter without the filter moving. :mad: :mad: :mad:



Count me in for $30 on one. Of course it must fit the 3rd gen fluted design perfectly with no slippage.
 
Here’s the deal guys.



I’ve a half dozen or so commitments so far.



I’m fixing to buy an $800. 00 bar of aluminum to machine these out of. That will make a 50 piece run.



For $30. 00 you’ll have a tool that will work every time you use it, whether it be twice a year or like me 4-5 times a year.



I’ll guarantee it against breakage for life. I’m not making 10 million cast or injection molded parts here, so I’m not concerned with every ounce of material that can be shaved off.



I know my first oil change yielded a crushed shell based on the principal of how a strap wrench works. You’d literally have to “twist” the shell with this tool. Based on what I know about tolerances on stamped sheet metal, this socket may have to be tapped into place ………. once drained, the filter may have to be driven back out. But, it won’t pinch or crush the shell. It will remove the filter without breaking.



I took a couple pics of a preliminary solid model (that’s hard to do if you know how a monitor works). The number of flutes and diameters are inaccurate as I didn’t have a filter in my hand and just used some arbitrary numbers from my head to get a time study on machining time. The number of flutes will be less, the cross sectional areas will be greater, yadda yadda, this was a 5 minute design. I'll take actual measurements from a handful of filters before finalizing the design.



Y’all let me know what you think!
 
LOL 2broke2smoke, it'll be a month anyway before they are done if I get enough interest. By then it'll be time to saddle the horses and drink a beer by the fire ... ... ... ... ... . plus, you'll save $2. 95 in shipping costs:D
 
Check Napa I got a nice large metal wrench that fit the bottom of the oil filter for 10 bucks. I brought a filter with me and made sure I got the right fit. I don't think this one will strip out. The first change is the hardest somebody should teach those guys to lube the filter flange
 
Originally posted by JHardwick

Here’s the deal guys.



I’ve a half dozen or so commitments so far.



I’m fixing to buy an $800. 00 bar of aluminum to machine these out of. That will make a 50 piece run.



For $30. 00 you’ll have a tool that will work every time you use it, whether it be twice a year or like me 4-5 times a year.



I’ll guarantee it against breakage for life. I’m not making 10 million cast or injection molded parts here, so I’m not concerned with every ounce of material that can be shaved off.



I know my first oil change yielded a crushed shell based on the principal of how a strap wrench works. You’d literally have to “twist” the shell with this tool. Based on what I know about tolerances on stamped sheet metal, this socket may have to be tapped into place ………. once drained, the filter may have to be driven back out. But, it won’t pinch or crush the shell. It will remove the filter without breaking.



I took a couple pics of a preliminary solid model (that’s hard to do if you know how a monitor works). The number of flutes and diameters are inaccurate as I didn’t have a filter in my hand and just used some arbitrary numbers from my head to get a time study on machining time. The number of flutes will be less, the cross sectional areas will be greater, yadda yadda, this was a 5 minute design. I'll take actual measurements from a handful of filters before finalizing the design.



Y’all let me know what you think!





Count me in.



Dean
 
I'm in for one.

Hope there ready before my first oil change .

I have 1100 miles on the truck now



Big Wheel
 
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I'm gonna order the material Monday. I've got a few PM confirmations and a few here. I've also talked NAPA into letting me put a few in the local store.



I've written down a list of aliases, but the best for me is for those seriously committing to PM a name and contact info, I can save it and have a way to let you know when it is on it's way.



Based on the current backlog of work, we are looking at 3-4 weeks to ship date.



I tweaked the design some today ... ... ... ... it's gonna look cool as **** even if it don't get used, LOL.
 
This a definite go, and I'm moving this to the accessories forum with final design pics.



Check it out there, and thanks for all the support.
 
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