Oil Pan Corrosion / Leaking

[Mathes308]

Used properly you could lift the whole truck.
Book says they are 150,839 psi tensile or about 18,000 lbs for one 10mm bolt.

I would just use the engine lift bracket already on it, or at least use both just to be safe.

If you over or under torque the 10mm bolts or your bracket puts leverage on the bolt heads it could break.

But mechanically they should lift it fine.

 

[Wayne M.]

I looked into those two threaded holes in the cylinder head. They are M10 with a 1.50 pitch. Purchased two automotive grade (10.9) bolts and a M10 1.50 tap to clean the threads. The hole closest to the head only has a depth of about 3/4" or so. The other hole is drilled and taped all the way through. I intend to use both holes with 1/4" L shaped brackets to attach one end of a chain, the other end of the chain will go to the lifting bracket by the water outlet. Will these 10.9 grade bolts be strong enough to support approximately the engine weight?

If you go back to #47 of this thread, you'll have your answer. Usually 10.9 grade metric hardware is close to US grade 8. I think I used a common 8.8 bolt. Didn't sweat.

 

[LHirshman]

I successfully cleaned the threads of those two M10 holes. An 1" long bolt will go all the way into both of them. I use an anti-seize compound to lubricate the threads. Looking on the Internet, I found torque specifications for US & Metric bolts. The M10 grade 10.9 bolts should be torqued to approximately 50 ft-lbs when lubricated.

On another subject...

A coworker recommended something called Yamabond to use as a gasket sealant. This stuff is used on Yamaha motorcycles and is supposedly far better than standard Silicone RTV gasket sealer, has anyone used this before and if so, what are your impressions?

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I've used Yamabond on many small engine rebuilds to seal the cases together. Great stuff.

 

[Mathes308]

I used copper head gasket spray. Worked great for keeping the gasket from moving while installing too.

 

[LHirshman]

Congratulate me, I've joined the club. Is there an award given to those who have replaced their oil pans or do I hang the old one on the wall of my garage? The job went relatively smooth. Cussing was minimal. The oil pan was from Rockauto. It was the same part number posted earlier in this thread. The pan required longer bolts than the stock pan. There is an 1/8" bracket welded to the lip of the pan for strength. I purchased, grade 8.9, M8 x 25mm zinc bolts with washers and lock washers from Fastenal. That combination with the new pan gave the correct depth. Torque was 21 ft-lbs as stated in the shop manual.

With engine lifted about 4" which gave about 3.5" clearance between the bottom of the pan and the cross member, the pan came out easily without having to remove the pick up tube.

Using a chain across the front of the cylinder head as Wayne M did. Putting the engine back required slight prying against the motor mount and the frame.

In hindsight, the lower radiator hose should have come off. It was stretched a little and some coolant was dripping while the motor was lifted. I hope I did not damage the radiator.

Thank you all who contributed to this thread and to those of you that answered my questions!

 

[NSperduto]

Well I'm in the middle of joining the club now. I had to get a pan from ebay as rockauto was out of them when myself and a buddy went to order.
He did his Saturday and fought the thing big time because the motor mount through bolts were frozen. He wound up unbolting the mounts from the block to raise the engine.
I'm doing mine now and I managed to slide the passenger through bolt back just enough to get it off the mount, but it won't slide out anymore. I'm headed back to the garage to work on the driver side. Just in the house now because my real job called and I had to log on to fix a program...I'm a desk jockey during the day.

Maybe it's a NJ thing with the frozen bolts...

 

[LHirshman]

Rusted bolts, use PB Blaster. It is available in the auto parts stores like Autozone, NAPA, etc. It works much better than WD40. I needed an 18mm deep socket for the motor mounts.
When you remove the old oil pan bolts use a 10mm six sided socket. A 12 sided socket may strip the bolt heads, then you may be screwed.

I like to use an anti-seize compound on all fasteners when putting things back together. Just be careful not to over torque as the torque specs. are less when the threads are lubricated as opposed to dry threads.

Desk jockey, I hear you. I'm an EE in front of a PC most of the day. Some day I get to use hand tools. today is one of them Yeah!

 

[mwilson]

Another High Five for PB Blaster. I have found in severe cases that if you heat the frozen whatever and then blast it with PB it will suck it into the threads. A little smoke of course, but that's what we are all about here.........

 

[RandoH23]

Hey guys, new to this forum here . I have an 06 and need to change the pan. Im thinking of going with Spectra CRP45A. Has anyone used this and how are they holding up? The price of these is just crazy
Thanks
Randy

 

[Wayne M.]

Hi Randy, Welcome to the TDR!

If I had to do it over, and had the coin, I would research the stainless pan thats in here somewhere. Spectra makes decent fuel tanks and rads so I wouldn't hesitate buying that brand. I didn't see either of these when buying mine...

 

[Wayne M.]

Welcome to the club! LHirshman and NSperduto!

Think about starting another thread, but I'll plant a seed here. Thinking about preseason rust prevention. I'm guilty of not doing too much in the beginning, and am now thinking about a simple solution of Marvel and WD40 in a garden sprayer, and just wetting everything including inside chassis and body panels.

 

[brods]

Hey guys, new to this forum here . I have an 06 and need to change the pan. Im thinking of going with Spectra CRP45A. Has anyone used this and how are they holding up? The price of these is just crazy
Thanks
Randy

The spectra pan on my truck is a year old and has rust bubbling already. If you go with the spectra pan paint the outside with something more durable before you install it.

Welcome to the club! LHirshman and NSperduto!

Think about starting another thread, but I'll plant a seed here. Thinking about preseason rust prevention. I'm guilty of not doing too much in the beginning, and am now thinking about a simple solution of Marvel and WD40 in a garden sprayer, and just wetting everything including inside chassis and body panels.

Why reinvent the wheel? Somewhere there is a thread on rust preventative coatings. Do a search on Fluid Film and the thread might come up.

 

[Jong]

Just got my SnoDepot stainless steel pan installed, and it's almost too pretty to put under the truck. I have no doubts that the pan will well outlast the truck itself, and should hold up well to NH winters. Well worth $685 including stainless bolts and the gasket.

 

[Mathes308]

Keep in mind that chlorine based chemicals will eat stainless steel!
You might want to paint the pan or at least spray with something like an undercoating spray after installing to prevent erosion.
Did they say if the pan is 304, 308, 310, 316, 400 series, etc steel?

I still have my old pan laying at the shop, thinking of laying out some drawings and welding up a few out of stainless.
Anyone wanna be a test subject

 

[Jong]

SnoDepots pan is 304 stainless, and it is 1/8th inch thick as well, so I doubt it will ever corrode through like the stock steel pan. Regardless, the truck is getting Fluid Film under coated from here on out.

 

[Mathes308]

You would be surprised.
I work with stainless every day, have some 1/8" thick heat exchangers on my floor right now with pin hole leaks from specs of carbon steel causing a rust spot.
They are 316 and made in 2008

We built a heat treating furnace for a company with 1/4" walls that rotted in 4 years because they ran city water through it and the water was treated with chlorine.
They were pretty ****** about that $275,000 mistake
Coat that sucker!

 

[Blakers]

This method is still working for me three years after my original post. Everytime I change oil I check the coverage of the grease and re-apply some if necessary.

Preventive / intervention measure

My oil pan got rusty several years ago, but not rusted through. I carefully scraped it off and considered painting it, but figured the paint would just entrap moisture and it would continue to rust. What I did do was spray it with aerosol grease. The stuff goes on really thin and then thickens up as the light ends evaporate out. And when the engine is warm, any moisture caught under the grease will evaporate. I did this probably 4 or 5 years ago and it has not rusted any further. My truck is run almost every day, so it doesn't get a chance for moisture to sit on the pan metal for long. If it sat a lot, it might rust a lot more.

Blake

 

[S.Morris]

Been doing this since truck was 4yrs old (now 11) and it has not gotten any worse

 

[LHirshman]

Update on oild pan

Hello,

Just changed the oil since I replaced the oil pan.
No rust or bubbles. BTW what I did not mention was painting the oil pan, before installation, with many coats of Rust-olium engine primer followed by many coats of Rust-olium engine paint.

It is now January and snowing. We'll see at the next oil change how the pan has fared.