Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Oil pan gasket

[JGheen]

I did a search but could not find the info I was looking for on replacing the gasket. First of all, I doubt I can replace the gasket without either removing the engine or at the very least jacking it up a bit to get the pan out from between the crossmember and the engine, right? Also, if I loosen the engine mounts a bit and jack up the engine enough to get the pan out, do I have to loosen the transmission mounting bolts as well? I would think something has to be loosened on the transmission side of it as well. Also, I was thinking of re-torqueing the bolts but I don't want to make the small leak I have now a big leak from the re-torqueing and over-crushing the gasket. So, those of ya'll who have done it in your driveway, what are your methods?



Thanks, Joe

 

[Bandit1]

i would like to know also, mine is leaking some oil around the gasket

 

[P Madrid]

The last 2WD w/auto trans I did, I had to remove the trans, fly-wheel housing and lift the engine. On a 5-speed I only lifted the engine. A friend with an auto trans lifted the front of the cab and manage to get the engine higher to the point where he left the trans attach. There has been other guys who claim to have done it easier, I hope they post their tricks.



Pablo

 

[Reb.B]

well here's too ways, . . one, you lift the front of engine and rear of transmission, loosening the engine mounts and taking off rear transmission nuts. the seconds method was when i was changing pistons every other day, and that is to cut the cross member, but only on a 4wd. I would just weld it back in when i was done. after the first time it save time. The best way is the first, everybody will give you hell on the second method, lol

 

[JGheen]

Cutting the crossmember is not an option for me. I welded my DT track bar in and I would rather leave my stout frame welding alone. But I would like to see if anyone has some more info on the engine raising method.

 

[JGheen]

Come on guys....

Anyone have any experienced methods of replacing the oil pan gasket without cutting the crossmember or removing the engine? There has to be someone out there that has a good method they could explain.

 

[KWentling]

I'm computer illiterate so I don't know how to post a link, but if you do a search in the 24-valve engine and drivetrain for "Parts found in oil pan", you'll find how I did it at the end of the thread.

Kim

 

[britannic]

Parts found in oil pan link

Originally posted by KWentling

I'm computer illiterate so I don't know how to post a link, but if you do a search in the 24-valve engine and drivetrain for "Parts found in oil pan", you'll find how I did it at the end of the thread.

Kim

 

[JGheen]

OK..... got a few other questions and comments now. Can I just use the factory engine hangers on the front and back of the engine to lift it up a bit to remove the pan? You know, using the 'ol cherry picker? Also, KWentling, the pan gasket you replaced on that 24v, did it hve an auto or manual transmission? Seems pretty easy but I would like to have someone experienced around to give me any pointers throughout the job, but I'll have to get with my local Rattlin' Rams and see if anyone is available to help someday when I get the time to do it.

As for some comments on the rest of that thread on cooling nozzles and oil filters, that stuff was pretty interesting. It didn't seem to be a frequent problem, but does this tend to happen on both the 24v's and the 12v's? Are there any differences in orfice size from the 12v nozzles to the 24v nozzles? I have been using Fram oil filters for a long time and now since reading that, I am kind of hesitant to buy any more and just start getting the Fleetguard filters. But why would Fram have such a good warranty and pay to rebuild your engine if in fact their filters are "defective?" I would think with a warranty or guarantee like they give, they would be producing some quality filters. Not sure what to think about it, but my engine seems to be running fine and maybe I'll try a different filter my next oil change until I can find some more raw data that shows that Fram filters are crap and cause problems.

 

[T. Baker]

I've read one story after another here about Fram filters wrecking engines. Personally I could care less what their warrantee is. It is a no brainer - no Frams for me!

Have you tried tightening the pan bolts a little. You might not have to remove the pan.

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by T. Baker



Have you tried tightening the pan bolts a little. You might not have to remove the pan.

No, I haven't. I am actually afraid of doing that cuz I don't want to crush the gasket any more than it is and cause an even bigger leak. My pan isn't leaking that bad, not even enough to drip onto the driveway but enough to coat the oil pan with a good coat of oil. What is the torque for those bolts? 20 ft/lbs. ??

 

[JGheen]

As for the Frams, I think I am gonna start using Fleetgaurd microglass filters just to ease my paranoia. Haven't had any problems with Fram oil filters with my gassers as well as my curent CTD, but there is a first time for everything and just the posts I read about the Frams scares me pretty good. Anyone know if typical Cummins dealer, like Cummins West out here, sells those Fleetguard microglass filters??

 

[KWentling]

JGheen: The truck was a '98 with an auto. Doubt that it would make any difference, but it was club cab/shortbed. I suppose you could use an engine hoist and lift from the top. I didn't have one so we used a jack. I didn't replace the gasket because it was still attached to the block and was in good condition. We put a new oil pan on it because the drain hole flange had been damaged and leaked. The reason for pulling the pan in the first place was because the tone wheel on the crank had come loose and had taken out the crank position sensor. I believe the torque on the pan bolts was 18 ft/lbs. My manual is out in the shop so this is by memory. I'd check the torque on them first and see if that cures it. Don't know if the cooling nozzels are all the same or not.



Kim

 

[I-6DZL]

I've done a couple of oil pan gaskets on 12v while working for the stealership. All i done was loosen the fan shroud, and hang it on the fan. Loosen the engine mount bolts. While using a hoist i put a screw jack under the front damper, and loosend the trans nuts. Jack up the eng. and remove the bolts. You also need to remove the oil pick-up tube and leave it lay in the pan. Pull the pan out and clean up and reinstall, but don't forget to reinstall the pick up tube... ... ... ... ... ...



With the problem you have though i would either leave it alone (it's called "no-paint rustproofing") or just get the ol' handy dandy torgue wrench out and torque the bolts.



It has been about 2 yrs since doing this, so please pay attention to what you're doing so you don't break anything. This is all of the "major" issues while dealing with the gasket.



Hope this helps, and let me know either way.



Curtis

 

[JGheen]

Well, since most of you recommend just checking the torque on the bolts I think I will try that. It doesn't seem to be an issue of over-crushing that gasket due to checking the torque on the bolts, since none of your mentioned that. I just had some experience with retorqueing a gasser oil pan gasket and the oil leak had only got worse cuz the gasket got crushed more tha it was supposed to buy checking the torque.