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Oil weights, Transfercase, front and rear diffs?

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Ok ordering up MagHytec Rearend today, but was wondering what weight oil most of you use. I'll put it in both the front and rearends, I do have limited slip. 2001 ¾ ton Auto. Keep in mind I don't tow a thing, least not yet... a friend is getting a small 5th wheel camper he said I could use... only like a 26ft or something.

Amsoil ????

Also what do most of you run in your transfercases?

Was jsut wondering...

Since I have 17,400 on the ticker gonna change the engine oil over to Amsoil too.
Thanks
 
I also just put on a Maghytec rear dif cover and transmission pan. I used Amsoil Series 2000 75w 90 in the rear end. I have LSD and did not need to add any friction modifier. If you are going to tow heavy or alot I would use their series 2000 75w 140. As far as the transfer case the service manual recommneds Mopar ATF. I used Amsoils ATF. Have had both in now for about 2000 miles and so far so good. When draining the transfer case it shoots out pretty good. I even thought about that when I placed my drain pan but didn't compensate quite enough for that and had a little mess to clean up.

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2001. 5 2500HD, SLT, 4X4, QC, LB, Dark Garnet Red, Auto, 3:54's, LSD, Tow pkg, Camper pkg, Amsoil dual bypass w/billet adapter & SS lines, Amsoiled, Smittybuilt side bars, Mag-Hytec Trans pan & Diff cover, Line-X bedliner, Triple SPA's in the A pillar
 
Here is my opinion.

I'd run the synthetic 75-140 no matter if you tow or not. In fact someone posted a while back that DANA recommends the 75-140 fluid regardless of the application (towing or not).

I'm not going to start a brand "war" here, but it is my recommendation to select a brand you are comfortable with. There a many MFG's that make a 75-140 syn gear lube. I will say that I'm sure the Amsoil is quality stuff, but there are many other MFG's that you can get a 75w-140 from for less than ~$12/quart (Shell, Valvoline, Mobil, ect... )

Given the info from Mag-Hytec, the brand of oil they recommend seems to be an excellent performer, and I would consider using it myself. The problem is in my neck of the woods we sometimes see below zero temps and the the LE607's pour point is only -11. For this reason I choose not to run it. Steve St. L does though and are climates are similar, you might want to shoot him an email.

As far as the T-Case, I'm currently running the LE7500. It's an ATF designed more for HD applications. It has LE's special Monolec additive in it which is supposed to help the oil "stick" to the surfaces better. I am comfortable with my decision here, but I believe a syn. ATF would work well too.

Sorry to be so long winded,
Ryan

[This message has been edited by Cooker (edited 05-11-2001). ]
 
This last change I did the 75-90 but next time I'll go with the 140. This time I used Valvoline synthetic. Limited slip works good with it without additive and there is no chattering.
 
Kat,
After 2419 POSTS you have to ask? Have you not been listening? #ad


Ryan,Ryan,Ryan, I think you are #ad
#ad

Gene

------------------
1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 "One Piece At A Time" Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com
 
Originally posted by MGM:
Kat,
After 2419 POSTS you have to ask? Have you not been listening?

I just couldn't decide between 75w-90 and the 140 is all. So figured I would get the latest and greatest opinions. Ya I know what the owners manual "recommends" but thought I would ask anyhow. So I posted that and went to bed... ... . #ad
Didn't feel like searching, besides its a good topic for the "newer" members to see... ...

Thanks for the replies.

Took ya long enough to jump in on here Gene #ad
figured you'd be the first reply. #ad


[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (Eric Howard) (edited 05-11-2001). ]
 
I am also running Amsoil 2000 75-90 front and rear, and it the transmission. Using Amsoil ATF in the transfer case. One of these days, I have to finish hooking up the temp guage for my rear. Guess I am not much help.
 
Kat,
I do have another life! I was watching the Simpsons.

I went with the 140 this year because I plan on truck pulling alot. ATF in the transfercase, 75-90 in the 5spd, front diff, 5-30 in the engine.
SDF 80, TS-106 air filter,Racing grease up front.
No leaks,uses less oil now than new,almost nil, and the diff oil stays that beautiful blue!
Gene
 
Originally posted by BarryG:
I also just put on a Maghytec rear dif cover
<font color=blue>
How many Quarts did it take to fill after adding the MagHytec rearend cover?

Gene -

Whats the advantage of using the 75w-140 over the 75w-90? More milage? Different pour points? Since I don't tow a thing, and prolly pull maybe twice (not popular aroud here) I should be ood to go with the 75w-90 correct? Price is not a factor here, just wondering why I should use one or the other (in both front and rear). In the newst dealer catalog they show two "types" of 15w-40 diesel oil, one being Diesel and Marine Motor Oil, the other being Gasoline and Diesel oil, I am guessing I want the Diesel & Marine type (AME-QT example part number). Again I ask whats the main difference between the two?

Thank you.

Right now looking at this (all Amsoil) :
  • Front diff - 75w-90
  • Rear Diff - 75w-90
  • Auto transmission - ATF
  • Transfer case - ATF
  • Engine - 15w-40 Diesel and Marine

Sound ok? Am I missing anytihng here?<font size=-2>

[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (Eric Howard) (edited 05-12-2001). ]
 
KAT,

I know you directed your question at Gene, but I will give a little input here.

As far as engine oil goes how long do you plan on running the oil before dumping? If you plan to use oil analysis to determine when the oil should be changed (or once/year) the Amsoil Series 3000 5w30 (I think that is right Gene) will offer offer lower wear rates for you and provide better protection in the long run. I personally have a difficult time believing this, but I believe Gene and others are being honest here when they give their oil analysis results from the two oils and the 5w30 results show less wear.

This is not to say the 15w40 isn't a great oil, but it has been proven through oil analysis that the 5w30 protects better (by causing less wear). If I remember correctly the 15w40 is about half the price of the 5w30, so if you plan on dropping it every 10,000 miles say, the 15w40 will be significantly less in the long run, and it will still give you great protection.

You said in you comments about the gear oil that the price is not an option, if that is the case with the engine oil as well, then select the 5w30 regardless of how you decide to select drain intervals, it's the better of the two oils.

BTW I am not an Amsoil man, in fact I have never used Amsoil. I am just summarizing the information that I have read here and other places and the information I have received from Gene.

How did I do Gene? I told you I was listening.

KAT, as far as gear oil goes I really cannot answer that with actual facts, but here is my logic behind selecting gear oils.

We are already driving a not so normal vehicle. These aren't 350 gas jobs. The torque we are producing, especially if Bombed, doesn't even fit in the same sentence as the toque of the infamous Chevy 454. Those gas jobs may be fine with 75w90 even when towing, but with the torque monster Cummins under the hood putting all the toque through the rear end, I think the 140 on the top end will definitely protect better. I know Dana recommends the 75w140 for nearly all applications (I think the exception was arctic conditions). In your case if you almost never tow, and your not at 600hp, I would have to imagine the 75w90 would be just fine. There are many TDR members running 75w90 and I haven't heard anyone complain yet. I do think that given the nature of our truck the 75w140 is a better choice, the truck alone weight over 7000 lbs! I don't think pour points (they should be almost the same) or longer service intervals (you potentiall could run a little longer with the 75w140 given your conditions but there is no substitute for fluid changes) are a consideration in your decision. FWIW I have 75w90 in the diffs now and will be changing to 75w140 upon the next service interval.

I hope this helps. Sorry to be so long winded.
-Ryan

[This message has been edited by Cooker (edited 05-12-2001). ]
 
Wow, Ryan, did you save all those old e-mails? And where did I say anywhere that you should use an LE product? #ad


The "other" 15-40 is semi-synthetic.
I was going for max fuel mileage when I installed Amsoil.
If you are not running over 30,000 miles ayear, I would say the 15-40 is fine over the 5-30.
The 75W-90 ismore than fine, but with truck pulling, I think I need a hair more protection.
With more fuel this year, and more abuse, I will be changing the 5W-30 at 6 months or 15,000 miles. (instead of 1 year or 30,000) No matter what the samples say. Remember, I have no By-Pass. Definately run the SDF-80.

I will change all other components at 1 year, and use the gear lubes in other equipment, because they still look new.
Kat, whatever oil you use, your drivetrain is going to outlive the body anyway. Don't worry too much about it.
Gene
 
Kat, I put the Mag-hytec cover on and put in Amsoil 75-140 without the friction modifier and am having no prblems at all. I also changed the front fluid to Amsoil 75-140 even though that fluid looked brand new. Now no matter how much pulling I do the diffs. are covered with premium fluid.

Did I miss your post or did you decide to keep your truck???... ... ... . Pete
 
I do not really plan on running a bypass system, and prolly change engine oil every 10k or so. That is why I was "picking" the 15w-40. That was my "Reasoning" for picking that over 5w-30, I run under 20,000 miles per year.

Guess I'll just put the 75w-140 in both diffs and be happy, knowing its pretty much the best "protection".

Pete -

Ya I think I'll keep mine for a while, since the "year model production" is closing, I'll wait a while. I'll change the TC and VB in my truck, see how she drives then #ad
Maybe I'll wait until the new body style comes around then I'll order the "old" one or a new one. . whichever I like better. On May 21st ordering up a mustang GT convertable 5 speed to play with. #ad
and hold me over... .

Thanks.
 
Kat:
With the dual-bypass I ran the oil to 42K with only slight increase in all catagories. I use the Amsoil 15W-40 syn. 75W-90 in the diff. but in the transmission I ran the same oil as the diff. but that cost me $2600. 00 for a new transmission. I'm in the process of working with Amsoil to see what the cause was. As JoeD has said, use what New Venture says to. My new transmission has Mopar GL-4 in it. Dodge put it in and it will stay.
I fill the Amsoil 15-40 is the best oil I have ever used. I see no need for change.
.
Just my feelings.
Preston

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96 3500, Black SLT, 5 speed, turbo diesel, , with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , Mag-hytec rear cover, dual-remote by-pass filters, and Roadmaster Active system, AutoMeter Pyro & boost, Primeloc
 
Eric,

There is no need at all to run the 75w-140 gear lube in the front differential. If you have the Magnatec diff cover installed, I really don't see the need to run the heavier stuff, even in the rear. The diff will run significantly cooler with the 75w-90, so relatively speaking, it won't thin out as much.

The Series 3000 works better than their 15w-40, as it has a better (and more expensive) additive package, including a higher quality VI modifier that is completely shear stable. There may also be some difference in the basestock blend (ie: more ester base), but you really can't tell this from oil analysis.

TooSlick


[This message has been edited by TwoSlick (edited 05-12-2001). ]
 
Originally posted by Pete Peterson:
So,,, you get to buy a new Stang and I got to buy a new Vermeer LM-42 with hoe,,, Hmmm I think yours is going to be more fun #ad
#ad
... . Pete

<font color=blue>Actually I "lied", not ordering it on the 21st, ordering it Monday the 14th! #ad
So since I am getting that I'll just hang on to my truck for a while, which is why I am changing all the oils now.

Since I am picky I have to order it, its gonna be "True Blue" which will very closly match the Patriot Blue of my truck. Seats will be nearly identical leather as well. It will be very interesting when I get them side by side. Can't wait to get some pics. Waiting 8 to 10 weeks for it is gonna suck tho. Figure I better buy all my toys now before I get a family or somethin #ad


Another reason I chose the Mustang over a Firebird is Union Pacific has a "special deal" with Ford and I am getting it for under invoice price. Also I am going to lease it due to the climate here. I'll see how it holds up after 3 years.

Basically its a Mustang GT, 5 speed, convertable, premium package (every option) for 25k. Dang getting anxious already ... ...
 
Turbo Thom,

I have to argue your post,the inside of my 5 speed was the nicest looking transmission a shop that has rebuilt dozens had ever seen.
I was having the 5th shaft installed and 3rd synchro was shot from shifting without the clutch when my clutch quit disengaging.

Were you using the Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90?
What exactly happened, and why do you blame it on the oil?
What shop told you it was the oil?
Are you saying out of thousands, the Amsoil picked your transmission to destroy?
People call me all the time about blown 5spd transmissions that look "burnt" inside, after using the Castrol for heavy towing. They are always looking for something better after spending $1000's on a rebuild, and wonder why $20 qt oil failed them.
In Dodges/New Ventures eyes, it did not fail them, it ran to out of warranty, just liked it was designed to do.
If you want something to live well past the warranty in extreme towing conditions, I'd advise using the Amsoil in the NV 4500.
Gene



------------------
1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 "One Piece At A Time" Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com
 
Kat:
It took right at five quarts to fill up to the full line on the dipstick. It definitely holds more than the stock cover.
Barry
 
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