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OMG!!! Twins Rock part II

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What is the limit and why????

Boost pressures and EZ?????????

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so we have to come up with the oiling system on our own if we buy that kit? And we have to use the same turbos right? it it made to fit the auto also? does the batterey need to be removed? your oil filter was placed somewhere else, do we have to do that also?
 
The oiling system parts are included.

the filter can stay where it is, and if you use an auto an auxillary cooler will be a must and the heat exchanger has to leave.



the oil line for the big turbo is made from field built fittings.
 
FYI, I had to pull the cooler out of mine! I attatched the lines together with (2) fittings, (2) 90's and a piece of braided steel line and I have not seen a difference yet in temps but I do not pull a trailer! My tie together may be over kill but like the oiling and drain lines I should never have to touch them again.



Jim
 
Jim,

How close were you to being able to keep the heat exchanger?



I was thinking the BHT3B may have a housing just small enough to keep it. they are basically the same turbo but the ehaust housing is a 26cm and has a much smaller foot print.



Later,

Mark
 
Is this kit being marketed? If so, can you PM me a price? How are you returning the oil from the big turbo? My truck is a 97' and it doesn't have any return port castings on the side of the block.
 
How close were you to being able to keep the heat exchanger?



With mine I could have raised the big turbo about 1. 5 inches and change the turbo to turbo cold pipe(or built it different) so you could clear the frame and make more room between the heat exchanger and turbo by moving it outboard(towards the fender) but there is a down side and that is the down pipe. When you move the big turbo towards the motor or the fender you loose it from being centered in the hole that the down pipe has to go through, if you are running a 5" down pipe then it is tighter and that is an issue, yes I could make a better down pipe than the one I have(tight on the transmission side) but this one works(the hardest part of the job) The heat exchanger isn't that big but the piece of crap it's mounted to isn't user friendly and I didn't want to cut anything up so off it came. You have to ask yourself do I want Twins and I'm willing to get around obstacles to get them or do I stay with a single. DTT sells a Big cooler for up front if you wanted to go that route and put fans on it if needed. I'll tell you I will not go back to a single, these are too driveable and too much fun.



Jim
 
I was too busy putting in propane to get to the pressure gauge. I don't know what stock drive pressure is to compare it to.



If the exhaust housing sizes are referring to the cross-sectional area of the ehaust opening in the turbine housing then. .

stock is 12cm^2

a 42mm wastegate has an area of 13. 85cm^2



add them together and you get ~26cm^2. . that's a big opening for a turbocharger.



Drive pressure should be drastically lower than even a 16cm^2 housing.
 
well, I am guessing that at full boost the total drive pressure is over 40 psi.



The wastgate does not drasticly reduce drive pressure, rather it just vents off excess exhaust gas to prevent the turbo from overboosting.



Originally posted by Diesel Freak

#ad




For example, if I were using the above turbo at a PR of 2. 2 and a mass flow rate of 35 LBM/MIN which in my example I will say is equivelant to the air demand of an engine running at 1500 RPM. Now I rev the engine up to 3000 rpm but the turbo is still operating at a PR of 2. 2. Now the air demand of the engine has theoreticly doubled, so it needs 70 LBM/MIN to operate. compare the two points on the graph, and then find the Turbo rpm required at those two points. What happened?



Turbo RPM went from approximately 75500 RPM up to 87000 RPM. Compressor efficiency went from 75% down to 65%.



what does this mean? ;)



What I was trying to get across in the above post was that with a wastgate already open, drive pressure still has to rise with engine RPM to spin the turbo faster to keep boost pressure the same at the higher engine RPM.



Originally posted by Mark_Kendrick





Drive pressure should be drastically lower than even a 16cm^2 housing.




I hate to tell you this, but if you were to actually get a Gauge on that thing you would know that the above statement is false.
 
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The problem with the drive pressure not dropping is ...



there is a non-wastegated turbo w/a 32cm housing on th other side of the wastegate. The big turbo takes over for the little turbo as it stops increasing or even decreasing the amount of boost it makes... due to the increasing rpm.



Normally the wastegate is considerably smaller than the turbine housing. A 42mm wastegate is HUGE compared to the nickel sized wastegate built into the turbo.



The wastegate on the little turbo is opened at a set drive perssure. At this point if the wastegate is opening at an rpm level that is sufficient to spool the big turbo. as rpm inceases the boost made by the little turbo falls off while the that of the large turbo is increasing.



I have actually seen power cycling on the dyno due to the wastegate opening and closing which proves that drive pressure before the little turbo actually drops as the gate opens.
 
Mark... enough double talk... ...



as rpm inceases the boost made by the little turbo falls off while the that of the large turbo is increasing.



Then the system is unballanced! If the system is properly matched both turbos should run at the same pressure ratio at full boost.



If boost made by the small turbo falls off then it becomes a restriction.



I would expect that if someone like yourself that is planning to market a system like this would know the system inside and out and be able to answer any and all potential customers questions.



Quit tip toeing around the issue and post the numbers.



I am starting to think you have not done enough testing to fully understand what is going on under your hood.
 
I too would like to know what the drive pressure is. It only takes about 30 minutes to install.



If you want to sell these things, it would be good information to have.



It would also be nice to have the pressure ratios across each turbo at full boost. That way the consumers will know if they are pushing either of the turbos into the danger zone.



-Chris
 
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