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One Piece Driveshaft

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I installed the drive shaft yesterday. There was only 3/4" clearance between drive shaft ujoint boss and end of transfer case. I folded the dust boot inward and ran it for about 30 miles. It was so smooth, absolutely no shudder, around here if I reset the MPG display it usually shows about 21 or 22. With the new drive shaft it shows 23 or 24. That two piece must have been sucking some power. Today I removed it and took it up to Driveline Services in Portland to have it shortened 1-1/4" so the dust boot will work. This drive line is about 6" diameter for most of it's length, it necks down to about 4" on the ends and it is very light. It does have non-greaseable crosses and they are glued in. I am going to have any future ujoint work done at Driveline Services because of the aluminum ujoint bosses welded to the shaft. Get them too hot and the weld joint suffers.
 
Went down to the dealer on Monday due to some vibration problems I have been having even after the change of ujoints in the rear shaft. They checked the front and the rear then they told me the carrier bearing was toast (to me it didn't seem bad). But as I was talking to them about a one peice shaft for a replacement, they told me they could order one and have it in my truck for under $600. I took them up on the offer thinking I was getting a great deal. All I can say is WOW! The truck has never been this smooth. The other thing I wanted to mention is that the part number they used for mine is different than the other in this post, but the trucks are speced the same. Both being mega's with auto and 4wd. The part number they used on mine was 52123161AA. On dodgeparts.com they are showing that shaft over $100 cheaper than the shaft metioned earlier. Can anyone explain???? Now my deal doesn't look so great, but the truck works better than ever and I am happy.
 
Does the One Piece work on the 2001 model year. I've heard that the Duramax

has a one piece made of aluminium. Is this a OEM part.

Thanks Mike
 
The Pinion flange is different on 01,I also would guess the length is different. The length would need to be checked on the GM shaft also the Slip yoke and Pinion would be different... Drive line specialists are now tooling for 6"D with length up to 78" aluminum.
 
52123161AA 1 8 42, 81 DG8 Has Yoke With Damper



Dodge either mislabeled, or has changed the spec, but mine does not have a damper on it.

But if anyone is looking to change out the center bearing or is having launch shutter, this is the way to go. No more shutter and it rolls down the road as smooth as silk now.
 
When do you get the shudder? Running empty I dont' have any, but with the trailer on I get it when I shift into 3rd and especially 4th.

Will
 
I never got the shutter when empty, but nearly all summer long I have a boat hooked to the back end. When starting from a dead stop she would shake up until about 15-18mph, then settle in. I am happy to say it is cured now.
 
If memory serves me right, back when I was engineering this sort of thing, 6 feet was the absolute maximum length for a driveshaft segment, whether a single shaft or a segment of a multi-part shaft. Recommended maximum was about 52 inches, minimum about 15 inches. The problem with too long a shaft is the critical speed where vibration can destroy a shaft to the point of explosion or will rapidly wear joints. Some two piece shafts are used to make the joint angles correct. Each joint should have the exact same angle, replacing a two piece with one piece can result in unequal angles resulting in vibration. Strangely, contrary to intuition, u-joints should not be perfectly straight. a slight angle will allow the needle bearings to move which will keep them from Brinneling the trunions.
 
If memory serves me right, back when I was engineering this sort of thing, 6 feet was the absolute maximum length for a driveshaft segment, whether a single shaft or a segment of a multi-part shaft. Recommended maximum was about 52 inches, minimum about 15 inches. The problem with too long a shaft is the critical speed where vibration can destroy a shaft to the point of explosion or will rapidly wear joints. Some two piece shafts are used to make the joint angles correct. Each joint should have the exact same angle, replacing a two piece with one piece can result in unequal angles resulting in vibration. Strangely, contrary to intuition, u-joints should not be perfectly straight. a slight angle will allow the needle bearings to move which will keep them from Brinneling the trunions.





Here's the Problem with the 2 piece, the carrier bearing begins to becomes weak and will change the angle, thus causing it to bind ,couple that with the trac-rite American LSD when engage, it just multiplies the problem. The 2 piece CC/LB is 74. 5" from TDC flange Joint to Pinion Joint just making the tube a little under 71".
 
Can I get clarification of part number for an 06 Megacab 6 spd manual?

Is it the 52123162AA #? Anyone have vin off an 08 for this model that I can reference?



Thank you!
 
I'm a bit confused here... Which is the P/N that works for my 2006 Mega 4x4? I'm looking to replace the 2 piece unit with a one piece OEM unit. My 2 piece shaft has the damper on the slip yoke end... Does that mean I need a one piece unit with a damper?
 
Can I get confirmation on d. s. #

Will the 52123161AA one piece

Bolt in to 2004QC/LB/DRW/NV5600/4x4

Thanks Steve
 
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So, I'm bringing this thread up to the top to see if anyone has installed the 52123162 AA WC in a 2006 with a 6-speed - does it fit properly?? and, what do you think of the 1-piece performance?



My 2006 is getting up there in miles and I will be needing a carrier bearing, u-joints soon - if this is a better way to go I'll be getting one.



Also, does anyone have a VIN for a 2008 using the factory shaft? I don't have anyone near me with a 2008 that I could get a vin off of, this would be truly helpful.



TIA







CD
 
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