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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission OooohOoooh that smell, Don't you love that smell,..That smell that surrounds me

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Well last week I turned on my headlights, but didn't have any :eek:



Fortunately, I just had to drive off Dixie and was home before dark. I knew problems were coming because I had been getting that melting plastic smell and the light switch was hot. This has been coming on since I installed the flatbed with all the extra lights.



I picked up the newer style switch for the 98. 5-02 models, but haven't been able to score the connectors as of yet, so that project has taken an increased urgency. Had some yards say yes, but they haven't come through as of yet.



Anyway, my question is: If I put a relay in the system will it help cure the problem. I tried the dash dimmer all the way on or off to no avail. If I install the Geno's Brite Light system does it have relays to help reduce the amperage draw (or what ever... I don't know squat about thinks that go bbbbzzzzztttt!!!, but i can do most of the mechanical juju) Or can I install a relay somewhere that feeds the flatbed with its assortment of lights?



TIA
 
relays would help, they would take some of the load of the switch and put it no the relay. Assuming it is all wired correct.
 
As one Lynyrd Skynyrd fan to another who has experienced headlight switch meltdowns, I bookmarked this little gem:

Recall 819
 
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If you have not done it yet convert the lights on the bed to L. E. D's. Every light on my truck is L. E. D and my headlight switch is the original one and no longer gets warm to the touch. Just one small change that helps alot.
 
Trail dog

You might gain some help with a new headlight harness that incorporates relays which would take virtually all of the load off your switch from the headlights (making more room/capacity for your flatbed lights). Try getting a hold of daniel stern

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply. He makes a top rate harness kit for the sport light conversion. He can probably tell you how to wire it up with relays for the nonsport he may even already have a kit for that purpose. His sport light harness kit is a put together yourself affair but he does sell them premade as well and once the harness is made it is plug and play no cutting up your original wiring.
 
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Your '96 should have a relay wiring harness already in it. The wires are just capped by the front cab mount behind the front driver tire. There is probably not a relay in the box under the hood, either. You can tap the wire behind the tire and run it back to the bed and trailer lights, and put a relay in the box to make it work. I've done this for years to people's trucks that lose their lights when pulling a trailer. On the older trucks, a relay wired to the running lights and direct feed from the battery should take the load off the switch. That's the SOP on '89-93s... . that or a separate switch for trailer lights and feed. Some people request switches so bed lights will flash when passing... ...
 
Can you expand on your statement about the wiring behind the wheel liner, HHH? I know exactly what you are talking about, I just ziptied them up out of the way yesterday. There are two bundles and two connectors.



Right after I got this truck, I found out it couldn't even light my 2-wheel boat trailer lights without melting the switch, so i made my own relay harness for all the trailer and truck tail lights and backup lights. Since I also put in a 7-way plug and a brake controller, I ran a hot, fused 6 gauge wire to the back of the truck to feed the relays and plug and just used the stock light wiring to trigger them. Months later, I received a recall notice saying my truck needed a relay harness installed to prevent switch meltdown. "Too late now", I thought, "I already did it. " and tossed the notice.



What could, or maybe should, I do with the wiring behind that driver's side wheel well? Are you saying that if my truck has that wiring, it already has a relay harness? just not a relay? I'm confused. . :confused:
 
The harness is not used unless it has the towing package. If you have the towing package, which I'm presuming you don't, as you've already wired in relays, the wire loom just runs down to the two connectors behind the wheel liner. Many of the wires are capped here, including the trailer lights. The loom already is in place in the trucks harness, it just needs a relay, and maybe a fuse in the box under the hood. I'll try to get a pic and post here in a little while. I don't remember what color the wires are, though.....
 
My equipment sticker says I do have the towing package. I thought that was hilarious when the truck couldn't even handle lighting a 2-wheel trailer's taillights without nearly catching fire.

And neither bundle of wires terminates at the connectors behind the wheel well. There are wires going both in and out of both connectors. The question I'll need to answer is: where do they go?
 
If it has the towing package, then all the wiring should go through this plug: Early '96(10-95build date) wiring with tow package:

#ad




If the wires stop here, then you don't have the towing package, and you should be able to tap the wires here, adding the relays, and putting it all to work for you.



If the wires are all there, then they should run all the way to the back where they were once upon a time connected to the factory 7 way connector..... Where they are now, I can't tell you. They ran through the rear frame crossmember next to the spare on the driver side from the factory with the rest of the tail light wiring.
 
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