Oopsie !

[RustyJC]

RV Power Cables and connectors aren't rated for 100A, so its a bad, though unlikely idea, to run both sides on L1 at max load.

Exactly right. That's why it's a good idea to check that the shore power receptacle shows 240VAC between the 2 hot terminals - this ensures that L1 and L2 are 180 degrees out of phase, as they should be. Then, should each hot leg be drawing something close to 50A, the neutral leg current will be 0A, not 100A as it would be if the 2 each 50A legs were in phase.



Rusty

 

[Kirwin]

Expensive lesson

I hired a licensed electrician to install my 30 amp travel trailer outlet at my Mom's house in upstate New York. Got there late one Saturday night plugged the trailer in, went inside the trailer to get something and the microwave was on fire and the converter was sparking. Upon investigation the electrician had asked my mom wether it should be 220 or 110. My mom said she didn't know so he wired it 220. Worst part was my Fluke 87 was in the trailer and I could have checked it. Spent all day Sunday driving to Camping World in NJ to get the replacement parts to allow us to continue on vacation. Lesson learned (this only works for 30 amp service plugs) buy a reverse RV adapter (30 amp male 15 amp female) a tripple tap plug and a 3 prong circuit tester, the one with the 2 yellow and the 1 red light, and a cheap volt meter to make a cheap but effective tester. ALWAYS plug it in first prior to plugging in the trailer. It will tell you if the neutral/hot is reversed, if the ground is open or if you have the proper voltage PRIOR to damaging your trailer. IMHO Ken Irwin