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Ordering New Truck - Suggestions on Options?

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My current truck is a 1999 Ram 1500 Club Cab 4x4 SLT Sport, with all the options, except leather seats. I'm about ready for something new.



I'm thinking about ordering a new 2500 Quad Cab SLT 4x4 with the HO Cummins and 6 Speed.



I went through the "Build Your Own" worksheet on Dodge's website, and have a few questions.



Here are the options I selected:

Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT 4x4 SWB $26,075

G Package $3000

G Package Discount (-$700)

5. 9 HO Cummins $5225

6 Speed $400

AM/FM/CD $510

Storage under rear bench $75

Tires - LT265/75R16E OWL $275

Trailer Tow Group $275

HD Transfer Case $100

Destination $715

TOTAL: $35,960



1. What's the purpose behind the HD Transfer Case. Is it worth spending $100 on, or am I gaining something I will never use (like a PTO).



2. If I don't order the $275 Tires, what size tires do I get? What brand tires in each instance?



3. Am I missing some key option here? I got very different results using CarPoint and Edmunds to price the truck - seems there's some confusion as to whether A/C is standard on an SLT or not.



4. I'm not crazy about the new body style, but I see posts here that Dodge is leaving parts off the 2001 trucks that used to be on the older models. What's the story on that.



I'm really not trying to create a "stripped truck" here, but I've never opened my sliding rear window and I like the stock seat position and can't stand the power seat in my truck (too many choices).



Thanks in advance for your assistance.
 
My comments:

Get the HD transfer case with the HO 6 speed - it can handle more torque.



Consider the camper package if you plan to put any wieght in it. It provides the anti-sway bar.



Look at the gear options carefully (3. 54 or 4. 10) You'll get lots of opnions here on that. IMHO 3. 54 if traveling empty or light loads, 4. 10 if you expect to run loaded, especially in the hills.



The sliding window is useless because you can't reach it, but it is tinted.



Look into the trailer tow mirrors if you plan to tow anything wide. It's a zero cost option, but not heated or power.



Spend a little more time than I did researching than I did as I ended up trading after 6 months to get what I really needed.
 
Check the price of the snowplow prep group. This includes the heavy-duty transfercase and heavier front springs. When I ordered my truck, this option had a discount and was cheaper than just the heavy-duty transfercase by itself.
 
I will add to the above get the Tow Mirrors, HD transfer for reason stated, Camper Package, A/C for sure, gearing is a choice you will have to make, if you pull part time get 3. 54, if pulling fulltime go 4. 11. If you get the SLT you will get the power seats, windows, the works. I didn't want power anything so I ordered a ST (see my sig. ) A sliding rear window is handy if you have kids and a shell on truck, otherwise forget it.
 
everything + kitchen sink

1. Cab lights: people driving slow in the hammer lane will get out of your way quicker at night.



2. Fog lights: better vision.



3. Snow plow prep: springs won't sag as bad after 100k miles. Includes HD T-case.





My local library information desk has the most accurate info on dealer invoice vs. MSRP pricing and options... FREE!



When you order, Try to negotiate with the fleet manager to get parts for wholesale price. I'm glad I did.
 
Eric, when I was ready to get my truck I posted about what options to go for as well.



Almost everyone it seemed told me to not get the rear slider. Well if I had it to do over again, I would definitely get it!!! It is tinted and if you don't get it and decide you want it later, you'll end up paying about $700 instead of $119 if you want the OEM unit (the only way some shops will go).



Another thing I would like is the trip computer, it is overpriced IMO but the temperature readout and compass are nice (not cheap to get that after the fact, basically impossible or VERY expensive to get the OEM unit after the fact).



Don't waste your money on the nicer tires, the basic tires are 265/75/16s also and are very good tires. Mine went almost 50K with a lot of city driving.



Things that I'm happy I got are the Camper package (for the swaybar, I ditched the overloads), rear underseat storage fog lamps, and most of all, those beautiful cab lights that nicely accent my 3/4T 2wd shorty, right John Treibel? :) (he likes to diss my lights :) )



Vaughn
 
Eric,



When I ordered mine, I didn't order the rear slider. Then I realized it would be a clear back window without it. I was able to change the order, so I got the slider. The tires are either Michelin or Goodyear. They don't know which it'll come with (it's a crap shoot), and you can't specify which brand you want. I ended up with Michelins, thank goodness. I haven't seen any Goodyears around here, so maybe they aren't using them anymore on the big trucks. I think the tire option you listed is for raised white lettered all terrains?



Go to several dealers. Deal only with the fleet manager or sales manager. Don't deal with a salesperson - they need a commision, which = not as good a deal for you. The manager works on salary. Tell them that you are going to order a truck, and this is what it will be. Get their price, then leave. No negotiation. They'll know you're serious and that they only have this one shot at you. They will throw you a great price this way. I did this - went to 3 dealers. All were right around invoice, so I just picked the one I wanted to buy from (which was the closest to me), and I ordered it from them. Also, by ordering, they can give you a better deal because they never borrow any money from the bank for the truck, thus no interest paid out by them. They pay interest on the trucks on the lot, so they have to get more out of them. Check www.edmunds.com for good info on this process.



You should be able to shave $5,000. off the sticker price (as you listed it) by dealing with them in this way. Check out my sig. My sticker was $35,600. I paid under $31,000. Also, join the farm bureau! Costs $37. 50, and it'll save you another $500. off the price. You need to be a member for 30 days before you buy it, but it'll take almost that long to get it anyway. Join today!



Get the snow plow group for the heavy duty transfer case and front springs. Also, get the tow mirrors if you may end up towing. I didn't get them since they aren't power/heated. Then I ended up buying them a year later for over $200. Would have cost me $0 if I would have ordered the truck with them.



Dave
 
consider the Sport Pkg option

not for the looks but for the better, clear headlights. Try driving std & sport lights at night, it's worth the money, and it does look good.
 
Eric:



Many dealers have an internet sales group that don't play car dealer games. Try to work from invoice instead of window sticker. You should be able to buy the truck for about invoice +/- 300 less any incentives from Dodge. Don't be suprised to see charges for advertising on the invoice. These are ligimitate charges that the dealer has to pay, but are not mentioned on alot of web sites. I can e-mail you the invoice from my truck that I took delivery of last week if you want to see it. I understand that the 2002 models are priced the same at this time, but less incentives. Good luck. The hardest part is the wait after you order it.
 
Mine stickered at over $37k... . paid $29500. I also have sliding rear window, would get again..... but it does make the exhaust drone more easily heard. :mad: Nice for tailgaiting and like the tinted feature.
 
I have noticed that exhaust noise is greater on my new truck with the sliding rear window, especially with the e-brake on. I didn't think to attribute it to the sliding window. I would prefer a fixed tinted window. Can't reach the slider anyway, and it's easier to brake into.
 
Here's the one thing to consider about the slider rear window. I never cared for it,but I ordered it on my former '99 Ram. I found out it's too far back to reach and I NEVER opened it,but the ONLY time it was ever opened was when a thief broke into my truck. Two flat screwdrivers pop them open very easily! Both my current trucks have solid windows and tint is cheap.



The tire issue: don't bother getting the $275 OWL option. The stock tire is still going to be the same size 265/75/16E Michelin with the same tread... the only difference is the OWL means you get "outer white letters" on the sidewall that say Michelin LTX as opposed to black letters that say Michelin LTX.



Instead,put that $275 bucks toward a limited slip differential (Anti-spin). On a truck this heavy you'll be glad you did,otherwise you'll get stuck on somthing as simple as wet grass.



Foglights are the only other option I'd recommend. They really make that much difference.



-Mike
 
www.carsdirect.com has a good web site to price new vehicles. Run it there and then print it out and take it with you to the dealer. Show them that you know what you want to pay. Guys up front will send you to direct sales, fleet sales or internet sales. You will get a good buy. 28. 4K for mine in May. See Signature. SNOKING
 
Opinions are like ... well, you know the rest.

Here's some of mine (opinions):

HD transfer case - YES - $35k, don't you want HD?

Snow Plow group - YES, agree with the previous comments

Trailer Tow Package - hitch, wiring, sway bar, why not?

Sliding Window - I've got it, but, I agree it is a security risk especially for those without a cap. Is this an issue for you? Depends on where you live...

Fog Lights - I have them, but I'm somewhat disappointed with the amount of light they throw. Haven't upgraded the bulbs yet...

Limited Slip - Good feature, but, it does increase tire wear. If you're getting 4X4, you can get by without it. I don't have one, and have 60k and counting on my tires. Also you can add any one of several aftermarket units later including true lockers. On the other hand, if you don't mind a very minor increase in tire wear and know you want something, getting the factory unit when you order is the cheapest option.

Carpet or vinyl floor? I went with vinyl, no cost, glad I did. Not right for everybody, just something else to think about.

Trip Computer: Many complaints on this board about lack of the MPG accuracy, BUT, I personally think it is the best thing since sliced bread. When I watch the computer, I can easily milk an extra MPG or two out of the truck.

After you take delivery: Pyro. Check old posts for the pre-turbo vs. post-turbo debate. If you plan other mods, pre-turbo is strongly recommended by most; if you don't plan a lot of power upgrades and use it mostly for monitoring turbo cooldown before you shut off then post-turbo makes a lot of sense. Most exhaust brakes include an threaded port for probe, so if you're getting one of those post-turbo gets relatively easier. But either way you go, get one!

Good Luck, enjoy your new ride when it arrives!
 
Don't spend the extra $ on tires. The standard tires are 265-75-16's. The difference is the outlined white letters, and the tread design. The optional tires have an "all terrain" tread, the standard version is an "all season" tread.

Both tires are load range E rated Michelin's. The tread on the all terrain tire is very slightly more "aggresive". The difference is so minor, I can't imagine any off-roading situation where a truck with the optional tires could go someplace an identical truck with the standard tires could not. I've got 12K miles on my standard Michelin's, and have been pleased with their performance, both on and off road. They are wearing well too, still look like new.
 
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