Here I am

Out with the Auto, In with the Manual?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

My Next Truck...

MAP sensor and TPS Voltage

Status
Not open for further replies.
This Question has been bugging My Friend and I for quite a while.



I know HVAC did this in Reverse order.



What is involved in Removing a 47re transmission in favor of a 5 or 6 speed manual transmission?.

Who out there knows of a shop on the west coast that can do this?

Also, Are there Two different PCM's, Being One for an Auto and One for a Manual?.



The Clutch and Brake pedals are a Bolt in process as with the Master Cylinder for the Clutch.



I have already bought the Cupholder and the filler knee bolster for the Manual setup, Just need to get the Pedal assembly and the Master Cylinder with the correct lines.



Thanks.

Doug.
 
I can not help with installers...

... but I would weigh the cost of the swap vs the DTT "fix" for your current set-up. Some are saying the results are unbelievable. If I had known about the modifications that were available for the auto, I may not have chosen the Stick. Just a different line of thinking.
 
Why

go through all that hassle? Just put in a DTT valve body, torque convertor and associated upgrades, and you'll be very pleased.

No ECM issues, no BCM issues, no loss of boost between shifts.

JMHO

RON
 
no need to yank the auto

HDH, give ATS of Colorado a call, at 800-949-6002, we just converted Stack'd 'n' Jack'd's truck to an auto, from a 5 speed, he has a 98, not a 98. 5... ATS may still have some of the removed parts laying around.

Yes, you'll need a different PCM and also a wiring harness, I believe... .

Why bother with the swap, though? Check out the ATS advantage... . this is a company that has grabbed the attention of the "stick" guys like me. Enough so, that it's getting us to convert from the opposite way you're going... .

Why the BD PressureLoc on your transmission? It's mentioned in your signature. I shouldn't think you would need one on there.

ol ron, he does already have a DTT valve body, it's in his signature.

Oh, one other thing, HDH. Why not call Bill K. and give him a chance to make it fit your needs. He takes care of his customers.
 
Last edited:
Doug,

You are opening a whole can of worms. Stay with the auto just give it a little help.



Call Ronnie at SunCoast (800-868-0053), get a ProLoc Converter, and Valve Body, Your friend will thank you.



By the way, you don't need to be brain surgeon, to put a converter & valve body in, any transmission shop is capable.
 
I agree with Briar. Call DTT or ATS and have them do the whole transmission. After they're done, the memory of wanting to swap your auto out for a manual will make you sick. I currently have a DTT transmission and will be swapping it out for an ATS setup next week. If you want all of the gory details, go to the products and accessories forum and look at the "Earthroamer installs triplelok" thread. :D Oo. :D
 
Cummins Corvette,

I was thinking about the DTT stuff and I've been following all the gory details of the other thread.



But the question I have for you... and maybe I missed the answer in that other thread... things got a bit muddy to follow.



when you say "DTT transmission", did you do a swap and get a whole transmission from them? or is it just the VB and TC you have?



why are you taking out the DTT transmission and putting in an ATS setup?



What dissappointments did you find with it?



Thanks

Bob
 
Re: no need to yank the auto

Originally posted by Briar Hopper



Why the BD PressureLoc on your transmission? It's mentioned in your signature. I shouldn't think you would need one on there.



Hey guys thanks for input, We are just asking asking questions. I would be Nice to combine the best of both worlds with something like what dodge had/has with their "auto stick" in the Intrepid's.



Briar,

I had bought the pressure lock before Bill Kondolay started up his Business, So I bought the DTT Valve Body after that fact, I had asked Bill should I leave the BD PL on or take it off, He said it did'nt matter, So being constrained for time, I left it on. I think basically its doing nothing.



Two days ago I serviced the transmission, lowered the pessures a little and raised the shift points to try to solve a "Quirk" I have.

When ever the truck is up to operating temp and I come to a left handhand turn lane, I stop. Then I make my wide sweeping lefthand turn on to the cross street,Its then the transmission seems to be hunting gears between 2nd and 3rd, If i give it more throttle, It will find the right gear and move on down the road.

I called Bills Shop, and they said try to lower the pressure a little and raise the shift points via the 2 adjusting screws on the VB. Ok I did that.

So what the transmission is doing now is basically the same thing, BUT the shift points between 3rd and 4th have raised a little at light throttle. the shifts Between 1st and 2nd have Not changed in rpm.

The transmission logic seems to have changed for the good as far as knowing when to downshift when rounding a hairpin turn or doing a California rolling stop.



I just wish I could get this transmission to work like the Used 99 CTD I test drove. It didnt shift form 1st to 2nd until above 10-15 mph.

My CTD and My friends 98 12v operate the same way, (early 1st to 2nd shift under light throttle).

We have tried everything people have said to no avail.

I checked for TSB's on this but none found. .



I can live with it for a while longer, Before I have to do something about it.



Dont get me wrong, I love the Auto, Its easier on the driveline when 4 wheel'n on slow steep trails and on hard surfaces like Moab sandstone. But I would like it to act more shift friendly.

Doug.

Sorry for the long reply.
 
Originally posted by BK



But the question I have for you... and maybe I missed the answer in that other thread... things got a bit muddy to follow.



when you say "DTT transmission", did you do a swap and get a whole transmission from them? or is it just the VB and TC you have?



why are you taking out the DTT transmission and putting in an ATS setup?



What dissappointments did you find with it?



Thanks

Bob



I have the whole deal built and installed at DTT. My main beef is with the tc. It is to tight at low rpm and to loose at high rpm. My ATF always runs on the hot side in city driving, and I have a stalling issue. Also the engine seems MUCH happier when I put it in neutral while stopped. If I wasn't getting an ATS transmission/tc I would get a 89% tc from DTT, but while being looser on the bottom to help with the heat, stalling and lag issues, the 89% would also be looser on the top end. That is not ok. That is where the ATS tc comes in. Looser on the bottom, and lockup on the top. It is just impossible to get everything in fluid coupling.



I also want the ability to shift locked to locked when I want to. I am not saying I will do that all of the time, but I want the option to do so when I really want to go fast. For the most part I drive like an old man because I am not really in a hurry most of the time. I enjoy driving my truck and just taking it easy, but I also enjoy having my back pressed into the seat and making Cameros and Mustangs look stupid on occasoin. lol ;) :D :D
 
Cummins Corvette ,

Interesting. . I wouldnt have guess about the top end issue.

I was looking at the 89%, VB and an EZ as a package.

I tow through the mountains of NY, and off road. Wanted something more efficent than stock. But something that also would be tighter than stock out of lockup for some of the grades.

Basicly coming out of lockup and OD are like having another set of gears.

A lot of the tight winding roads up the side of the mountains... . the transmission wont go into lockup and I'm in and out of the pedal. Thats when the heating really shows up.



Having lived with the DTT, and with you being more subjective now , what do you think I should be looking at?



I see your running a juiced 12V. Do you think the DTT setups are any different for the 24V?
 
Re: no need to yank the auto

Originally posted by Briar Hopper

Yes, you'll need a different PCM and also a wiring harness, I believe... .




I don't see why the swap from a manual to an auto may need a diff PCM and wires for the hookup of the trany but the Manual is not going to use any of that stuff
 
Re: Re: no need to yank the auto

Originally posted by HDH

dodge had/has with their "auto stick" in the Intrepid's.



My wife drove our Concorde like a lady adn we had to replace it at 77,000 miles, just out of warranty. My wife now drives a GM car. Her next car will be German or used, I am tired of US crap. The idea of getting it to fail out of warranty is for some other sucker. Who knows it might be a German car with a 6 speed...



Wake up DC make a transmission that works. A 30 year old transmission fron a used HEMI car will outlast the junk you sell today new.



This is food for the DC trolls, eat up! :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top