2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Overload Spring Bump Stops

[mnick]

Trying to remove my bump stops for the overload springs. The three nuts on the inside of the frame are not metric or standard. It looks like some special nut to keep you from removing them for some stupid reason. Not in an easy spot to work on either. Anybody run across this before? Did a search but no luck. Mike

 

[ewcmr2]

Remove the bolts from the outside. The nuts are probably stamped/welded/retained in the frame to make assembly easier.

 

[WestTN]

I'm curious as to why you want to remove them?

 

[mnick]

The other end of the bolt has a rounded head. I need to remove them so I can drill a half inch hole in the top of them. No room to do it on the back ones while they are on the truck that I can see. I'm installing a set of Tork Lift Stable Loads. These are a rubber type spacer block which will reduce the gap between the springs and the bump stop. I carry a Lance camper on the truck year round. The springs tend to slap the bump stops because I need a little more weight so they will engage the bump stops sooner. I weigh about 9400 lbs the way it sits. I guess the factory made my truck just to damm strong!!!

 

[Regcabguy]

The other end of the bolt has a rounded head. I need to remove them so I can drill a half inch hole in the top of them. No room to do it on the back ones while they are on the truck that I can see. I'm installing a set of Tork Lift Stable Loads. These are a rubber type spacer block which will reduce the gap between the springs and the bump stop. I carry a Lance camper on the truck year round. The springs tend to slap the bump stops because I need a little more weight so they will engage the bump stops sooner. I weigh about 9400 lbs the way it sits. I guess the factory made my truck just to damm strong!!!

I had overload spring slap on my '98. 5. National Spring removed them and cured the problem.



Other guys have secured pipe connectors over the end of the springs and killed the slap also.

 

[mnick]

Well I put on my glasses and craweled under again and each nut has a special metal sleeve on it and they dont want to come off. Anyone know the secret code word for quick and painless removal?

 

[wlowe]

Well I put on my glasses and craweled under again and each nut has a special metal sleeve on it and they dont want to come off. Anyone know the secret code word for quick and painless removal?

What year is your truck? I crawled under my truck to look at the rear bump stops but the spare tire made it hard to see inside the frame. I felt the nuts inside the frame and they seemed like standard six sided niuts. The bolt heads on the outside of the frame are six sided, not sure if metric or standard. The front bump stops are six sided nuts/bolt heads with a reinforcement plate against the inside of the frame. I couldn't tell if the nuts are attached or welded to the frame but it didn't look like it.



Not sure why yours has round bolt heads? I looked in my Service Manual and couldn't find anything. I'm thinking about installing these also, but I'm going to wait to see how your install goes.



Good luck,

Bill

 

[mnick]

Thanks for the response Bill, My truck is a 1996. I decided to take a look at the other end of the bolt and felt around again and it has a round head but fells like it takes a Torx bit. Can't see with the wheel liner in place but will pull wheel liner on one side in the morning. It looks like I maybe able to drill the front bump stop with liner removed and using my drill with 90 degree head. Your respone got me to take another look!!! Thanks, I will report back in the morning with new update. It makes sense now about the retainer on the nut on the inside of the frame!!! Mike

 

[wlowe]

Thanks for the response Bill, My truck is a 1996. I decided to take a look at the other end of the bolt and felt around again and it has a round head but fells like it takes a Torx bit. Can't see with the wheel liner in place but will pull wheel liner on one side in the morning. It looks like I maybe able to drill the front bump stop with liner removed and using my drill with 90 degree head. Your respone got me to take another look!!! Thanks, I will report back in the morning with new update. It makes sense now about the retainer on the nut on the inside of the frame!!! Mike

Mike, if you can get a torx bit in there I would spray some penetrant on the bolts, let them sit for a while, and see if you can break them loose. Drilling a 1/2 inch hole with a 90 degree drill above your head would be no fun.

 

[Schumacher]

Mnick, try lifting the truck and put jackstands under the frame, if your stand are not tall enough remove the rear tire. Use a large C clamp to compress the overload spring. This may give you enough room to work, if not use a 90* drill.

 

[mnick]

Good advice from both of you and will use it. I have sprayed the bolts and will let them sit overnite. I will also try the jack stands under the frame. It looks like with the wheel well liner out and the wheel off I should be able to handle the job. I will let you guys know what the out come is. I dont know why my truck info doesnt show. Mike

 

[mnick]

Job is done. I removed the wheel, then removed the wheel liner by drilling out the plastic rivots. Put jack stand under axle on that side. Jacked up the frame with floor jack placed under center of trailer hitch. Then placed jack stand under frame on that side. First bump stop I removed to drill hole, big mistake!! Pain in the rear. Next bump stop I left attached to the frame, used two large c-clamps to compress spring and then drilled hole. I used a set of drill bits that are shorter then average and have turned down shanks so even the 1/2 inch bit fits in 3/8 chuck. Used right angle drill and it was still a tight fit. Also had one drill bit that is 24 inches long which meant you drilled the hole at an angle. Didnt care for that so went back to short bits. Thanks to everyone who offered advice.

 

[mnick]

I forget to mention the other end of that bolt did take a large torx bit.

 

[mnick]

Also forgot to mention that the bump stop already has a hole drilled in it and all you are doing is drilling out the hard plaastic cover which is much easier than drilling from scratch!!! The instructions from Tork Lift explain how to measure so you hit the hole.

 

[wlowe]

Also forgot to mention that the bump stop already has a hole drilled in it and all you are doing is drilling out the hard plaastic cover which is much easier than drilling from scratch!!! The instructions from Tork Lift explain how to measure so you hit the hole.

I'm glad to hear that it worked. I guess I need to get a right angle drill. Let us know how you like the Tork Lift Stable loads.

 

[mnick]

Tork Lift says In their directions that you can use a loooooong drill bit and drill at an angle then you would not need a right angle drill.