Here I am

Owned my first Cummins for 22 hours and my first post.

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Finally made it around to Cummins

Finally! 03 3500 4x4

I bought my '06 in mid-year '06 and have over 155K miles now. I had an '98 12V before that and like this one better than anything I've owned in 60 years. If you can sweet talk a dealer service or parts rep into it, they may be able to print you up a build sheet showing exactly what was included when it was built. Other than that, the VIN # will provide lots of info. I added an exhaust brake and AMP steps at the dealer, followed soon after with gauges. Most of my mileage has been towing an 11K fifth wheel. Going back, I'd buy it again in a minute.

The build sheet can be pulled online just with the VIN, no dealer needed for this today.
 
Wow, so much information!
Thank you for all of your help and information, every time I read through this thread I find something new and I spend another checking out products and watching videos.

So, my truck is 2wd, which shouldn’t cause me any problems, other than putting into 4wd in the yard to keep everything lubricated, I only used 4wd on my F250 1 time when pulling my trailer on wet grass. The right rear tire spun a little bit, so I used it as an excuse to use the 4wd

2wd bonus for me is, it sits lower and is easier to get in and out of the truck, plus it just might get more mpg.

The Posi.
The original owner’s Son laughed a little when he talked about his Dad changing to the Yukon Duragrip. Apparently from day one, whenever his Dad pulled his 5th wheel up his driveway hill, 1 tire would spin near the top of the hill.
After changing to the Yukon Duragrip, which he only used once before he passed away, it was the only time that 1 tire did not spin when going up his driveway.

As long as both tires are on the ground, Torsen is fantastic and unless a person is doing a bunch of 4 wheeling, both tires will be on the ground and in theory should never spin 1 tire. I know nothing about the Torsen that comes in the Cummins and when I check the VIN, I may find that what the original owner thought was a Posi, was in fact a regular open diff.

When researching Torsen type Posi for a 68 Fastback Mustang, I quickly found that not all Torsen are created equal and that some used for racing have different bias. With this being said, even with a low biased Torsen, I don’t see how he would consistently spin 1 tire while pulling his 5th wheel up his driveway hill, but as I said before, I do not know anything about the Ram Torsen.

Question on the Glacier fuel filter system. How often do you change the filter?

Thanks again for all of your help.
Ken
 
Without a pressure gauge I’d change the filter every 15K miles, same as OEM, or 18-24 months. Whichever comes first.
 
I change that filter once or twice a year, unless I think I have a problem. I drain a bit from the factory housing every oil change, and change that filter either every oil change or every other depending on my usage.
Here’s a link to my own fuel filter setup, so you can get an idea of what’s going on. Keep in mind that my truck is manual trans, so I have a little more room to play with. The Glaicer system installs in the same general area.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/final-fuel-filtration.247515/

Edit, please scroll to the top of this link.
 
Thank you for the VIN check link, it worked great.

The truck came with the anti spin axle, don’t understand why original owner had trouble with 1 tire spinning when he drove up his driveway hill.
 
I have the Edge CTS and it works great and allowed me to expand to monitor items not covered through the OBDII port. An option would be a Bluetooth unit like OBDLink MX+
or similar units. I don't believe they are expandable though but less expensive and nice with a phone App.

Amazon product ASIN B07JFRFJG6
 
I change that filter once or twice a year, unless I think I have a problem. I drain a bit from the factory housing every oil change, and change that filter either every oil change or every other depending on my usage.
Here’s a link to my own fuel filter setup, so you can get an idea of what’s going on. Keep in mind that my truck is manual trans, so I have a little more room to play with. The Glaicer system installs in the same general area.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/final-fuel-filtration.247515/

Edit, please scroll to the top of this link.

Nice looking setup.
I still might have a remote filter setup in my shop.

Where did you buy the needle seat bleeder?

I don’t have a good tubing bender, any reason why braided lines wouldn’t work well with diesel?
 
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Nice looking setup.
I still might have a remote filter setup in my shop.

Where did you buy the needle seat bleeder?

I don’t have a good tubing bender, any reason why braided lines wouldn’t work well with diesel?
You could use braided, or even neoprene. The pressure at that point isn’t high. The point was to have durability as even braided is only as good as the foundation hose inside, and biodiesel can soften that. I don’t have a fancy bender at all. All the fittings came from discounthydraulic.com IIRC.
 
You could use braided, or even neoprene. The pressure at that point isn’t high. The point was to have durability as even braided is only as good as the foundation hose inside, and biodiesel can soften that. I don’t have a fancy bender at all. All the fittings came from discounthydraulic.com IIRC.

Very good point on the braided line.

Did you get the bleeder at discount as well?

Thanks
 
Did you get the bleeder at discount as well?

Thanks

All the fittings and the bleeder came from discounthydraulichose.com, the filter head came from Amazon (part # is in that thread) the gauge from Summit the tubing and nuts from local autozone. In the first post, disregard that filter number. The list of filters I gave includes the superseded filter (FF5814) which is a much better item.
 
Here are some pictures.

EC8F618D-9280-4B31-8B4F-26E59A238A9E.jpeg
62E4D2E7-5F87-4F59-8C1F-BC3D03F4C248.jpeg
217BE794-AA18-44E9-A937-6F1F971553C0.jpeg
0528CB27-F81F-45C8-B4FC-F1E0FA2566FD.jpeg
 
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