When I put my Diamond B 370`s in, I`m going to replace the OE delivery valves with High Performance ones. Main reasons are: I have the off idle stumble now. Its not bad but it will probably get worse with higher flow injectors. I have to take the injection lines off anyway. Might as well do them at the same time. The high performance delivery valves were relatively inexpensive and look like an easy installation. If they help to smooth out the flat spot, thats good enough.
I ordered the delivery valve holder socket from Miller tools P# 6840. about $41
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The best instructions I can find is the Dodge TSB to adjust the timing. No installation instructions with the new valves. The TSB instructions seem pretty dummy proof.
See Here: http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/tsb94/18-10-94/18-10-94a.htm
( we are only concerned with steps 5-9 & 24-30)
I have a couple of questions:
1) Are the remaining delivery valves (2-6) done the same as #1. In other words does it matter where on the fuel pump cam shaft the plunger is when I pull the valve holder? Does the engine need to be barred over so the plunger is not on the high point of the camshaft lobe? Engine is at TDC to remove Valve # 1. (in the TSB). Is this JUST for timing purposes?
2) Should I "dip" my fingers in Diesel fuel when I handle the new valves?
Any other Tips & Hints would be greatly appreciated.
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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.
[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-24-2000). ]
I ordered the delivery valve holder socket from Miller tools P# 6840. about $41

The best instructions I can find is the Dodge TSB to adjust the timing. No installation instructions with the new valves. The TSB instructions seem pretty dummy proof.
See Here: http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/tsb94/18-10-94/18-10-94a.htm
( we are only concerned with steps 5-9 & 24-30)
I have a couple of questions:
1) Are the remaining delivery valves (2-6) done the same as #1. In other words does it matter where on the fuel pump cam shaft the plunger is when I pull the valve holder? Does the engine need to be barred over so the plunger is not on the high point of the camshaft lobe? Engine is at TDC to remove Valve # 1. (in the TSB). Is this JUST for timing purposes?
2) Should I "dip" my fingers in Diesel fuel when I handle the new valves?
Any other Tips & Hints would be greatly appreciated.

------------------
Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.
[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-24-2000). ]
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