PE Box questions after install....

[Archive]

I installed my PE box this evening and just came back from a test ride. I definitely notice a difference (even backing out of the driveway!... its a long driveway) Anyway, my SPA boost guage went nuts when I got on the go-pedal. It hit 52 ! I know that can't be right! Anyone else with an SPA and PE have this happen?

Also, I ripped the paper gasket between the heatergrid and the air intake manifold (when I had to move the air intake "tube" out of the way to get to the fuel pump wire) Can I drive without the gasket? Is it bad for aluminum to be touching aluminum there for a few days?

Regarding the install, that little pin-prick thingy to connect to the fuel pump line doesn't work worth a darn. I couldn't get it to snap - it kept separating - I ended up putting electrical tape around it to keep it together. Did I just get a dud or did anyone else have the same issue?

Thanks in advance - I do like the power!

------------------
'01 2500 SLT+, QC, LWB, 4X4, 3. 54s, AT, SPA guages, Alpha Liner, Stolen Silencer ring, every option but running lights! To come: DD Stage II's PE or DD Boost Module, Exhaust brake, 4" turbo to tail, etc...

'98 DUCATI ST2 "Bombed" 944CC with Ducati Performance Carbon Fiber Exhaust, F. I. M. Chip, K&N and "modified" air box.

[This message has been edited by Scooby (edited 08-27-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Scooby,
Give Brett a call at Power Edge, he will send you a new connector. They are very good at making sure that you are happy!

I love my PE, #ad
however I have the first edition and I had another stumble tonight. I need to send it back for the 3 light and upgraded program. #ad
#ad



------------------
"WHITE OBSESSION" 99 Quad Cab, White, SLT, 4x4, 5-sp, 3:54's, LSD, Loaded except cab lights and leather, Raven cap (cab high), Rhino liner, Stainless Nerf Bars, Stainless Rocker Panels, Tow package, Pro-flap mud flaps with Stainless Cummins "C" add to rear flaps, Power Edge (my first BOMB), Valentine One, Amsoil throughout, Uniden PC78LTW CB Radio with Mike Brolin's CB mounting bracket for STICKS. Hadley Bully Air Horns. Psychotty Air Induction, Braided SS Fuel Lines.

Things to come;

285/75R16 Cooper A/T's, SPA Pyro and Boost gauge, 4" exhaust system, DDIII's.

NRA Life Member! (Need to protect our rights and FREEDOM!!)

 

[Archive]

<font color=blue>No problems on my connector. Email me your address I can mail you one if ya want. I have a few extra.

Big Bob -

Call Brett or Taylor, they will send you a NEW one and also enclose a prepaid shipping label for you to send it back. So you are never with out your PE.

------------------

• <font color=blue>
• Eric D. Howard - #ad
  - BOMB'er! - #ad
  - TDR Member since April 8th, 2000, Rancho 9000 shocks
• 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 HD 4x4 SLT Auto Reg cab Cummins Turbo Diesel 4. 10 gear ratio LT265/75R/16 tires
• Patriot Blue Pearl Coat, Agate interior, Leather seats EVERY option, Silencer Ring AWOL, Trans Go Shift Kit
• JRE 4" Exhaust, "Hot" PowerEdge, Autometer UltraLite Gauges (EGT, Custom Boost, transmission temp), K&N Airfilter</font>

<font size=-2>

[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (edited 08-27-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Scooby,
Re: your question on SPA gauges going nuts, YES, others have seen this. Check the thread "Whose using SPA gauges".
The short version is, we are finding bad connections in the wiring plug to the pressure sensor. If that is your problem, it will get worse soon and you will likely see negative numbers, spiking (like random jumps from 10 psi up to 25 psi and back again when you weren't even on the go pedal), and eventually the "FL" code. Take the plug connector apart, reassemble and retighten the connections, and see if operation returns to normal.
TIP: Remove and reinstall one wire at a time so you don't cross them up!

 

[Archive]

HC,

Thanks for the response. I've had the guages in for several weeks with no problems until I installed the PE box. I'll check the connectors, but I've never had a problem until now... . coincidences do happen, though!

 

[Archive]

Scooby,

Those wires don't come out of the connector without a pin puller and it’s not your standard pin puller. When we install my SPA gauges we didn’t want to drill a big hole in the firewall so we pulled each pin out of the connector and ran the wires through an existing grommet. Getting those pins out without the correct pin puller was a very long process #ad
. We went to several electronic stores trying to find the correct puller without success. Finally, I made one that barely worked. Must have taken about 10 minutes per pin. #ad
. After that the guy that install my gauges ordered the puller form SPA. The Gauges should come with the puller.


------------------
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, Long Bed, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE) Loven the shift thing (Arrrrrh), 3:54, SLT+, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, 18,000 LB 5th Wheel Hitch, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, BDs E-Brake, Rhino Liner (gray), Velvet ride shackles, cup smoothy, Power Edge box w/elbo, DD Stage III injectors, SPA Gauges, Jardine Exhaust, 16cm turbo housing. Love the smell of diesel in the morning.

[This message has been edited by Cliffman (edited 08-27-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I just finished installing my PE. I don't have the SPA guages so no comment there. The pin connector that goes to the injector pump did not give me any problems, other than it is a tight squeeze. I am wondering if I got it on the correct wire??? #ad
There are two sets of two wires in the area. One set appears to feed into the housing assembly. The other goes to a connector between all the fuel line connections. That is the set of wires I attached it to. I attached it to the one closest to the block or the upper wire as the connector is in there at a slight angle (per the instructions). If I installed it on the wrong wire would the PE still appear to act normal? I haven't started the truck yet, am just a bit curious if I got the whole thing in there correctly. All the other connections were not a problem.

------------------
99, 2500 EC, Laramie SLT, 5 spd, 3:54 LSD, Sprayed Liner, K&N Stock, PacBrake, EGT (Pre & Post Turbo) & Boost Guage. PE.

 

[Archive]

Cliffman,

What the hey? I'm a bit slow sometimes so bear with me... I don't know which connectors you are talking about. I stalled 2 SPA dual guages (4 guages worth of wires going through the firewall) and didn't have to drill any holes. I was able to take the connector that connects to the boost sensor apart (pretty simple). The other smaller connectors I just left alone and fed through the rubber grommet (I have an auto so I could use the clutch hole to send plenty of wires through).

Are you talking about the pins that connect to the guages themselves? Isn't that the largest connector on the wiring harness - I wouldn't try to fit that through the firewall!

Anyway, let me know if I'm not getting what your saying - I'm always looking for good advice!

TR7110,

The wire I attached to (it was a tight squeeze) is as described in the instructions. It is the top set of two wires (top is slightly tilted to the drivers side) and the single wire to use is the one that is closest to the engine block. Turn the key to the run position without starting the engine to see if it responds as it should prior to starting the truck. I didn't really get down to see where the wires ran so I can't comment on your description. Good luck!

[This message has been edited by Scooby (edited 08-27-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

<font color=blue>You want to have it on the wire closest to the block on the set of wires going into the injection pump itself.

Also I would suggest checking the fuse in the fuse holder before testing. There has been a couple of ocasions where the fuse is missing soooo everything will appear normal but it wouldn't be adding any additional fuel, that fuse is to proect the injection pump. It is a 3A fuse, if you run the "Hot" PE I would suggest trading the 3A for a 5A fuse because you will ocasionally pop the 3A with the "Hot" program.

Hope this helps.

 

[Archive]

Scooby & Cliffman,
Either we're talking about different ends of the wire, or SPA has changed the designs slightly. I say this because all I needed to pull the plug apart was a very small screwdriver. The plug that I'm talking about has 4 female receptors in a common plastic plug, of which only 3 actually have anything wired up to them. Once you pull back the external plug cover, you can loosen the tiny screws. At this point, you can pull the wire back and if desired can pop the female receptor out of the plastic plug housing. I looked through the screw hole, made sure the wire was aligned under the head of the screw, and then reinstalled the screw while trying to make sure the wire didn't move so I could "bite" down on it.
Your plug may be different - just proceed slowly.
As to the guage working fine for several weeks - mine has done that too. The problem just reaappears; sometimes after driving in a rain, sometimes just randomly. If you bumped or wriggled the wires ever so slightly during the PE install, that could explain the timing of your problem's appearance.

 

[Archive]

Scooby, KatDiesel:
Thanks for the info, have gone back and rechecked the connection and I can now see what I believe to be the correct wire. Also checked the fuse as it tests good. #ad
Thanks

------------------
99, 2500 EC, Laramie SLT, 5 spd, 3:54 LSD, Sprayed Liner, K&N Stock, PacBrake, EGT (Pre & Post Turbo) & Boost Guage. PE.

 

[Archive]

HC,

I'm with ya - our set ups are the same. This is what I did from the get-go... I just took apart the connector exactly as you said. I was trying to figure out what Cliffman did.

Your point about just barely moving the wire makes sense. I did touch it - don't know why, really... I just have to touch stuff!

Thanks for the input.

Now what about my aluminum to aluminum question... anyone know if it's bad to not have a gasket in between the air intake manifold and the air heater? I plan to get a new gasket asap, but was wondering if I shouldn't drive it at all tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by Scooby (edited 08-28-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Scooby, yes you need a gasket separating the two aluminum components. Even though both pieces are constructed of aluminum, the exact alloy or manufacturing process of the base material could be different, combined with size, thickness etc. will net different rates of thermal expansion characteristics. Bottom line, you will have a leak (especially in a turbocharged engine)! Use some silicone until you can acquire the proper gasket.

------------------
'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, Dynamat, '00 Sport grille & valve cover, '00 Sport headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc, Amsoil Dual Bypass, Bosch 275s, VA CPC, (censored), Banks 14 cm2 turbine housing/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

 

[Archive]

Hey Scooby and HC,

Sorry it took so long to respond guys.

The connector end that I'm talking about is the one that plugs directly into the back of the gauge. The problem is getting a connector that size (aprox. 1 1/4) through the firewall. If you have an auto then all you have to do is run it through the clutch grommet. If you have a standard transmission (as I do) then what do ya do #ad
? You either have to drill a hole in the firewall #ad
or remove the connector pins from the connector housing and squeeze it through an existing but crowed grommet. Now maybe they have changed connectors #ad
, but I don’t recall any screws that could be removed from the connecter in order to pull the connector apart. We found the smallest screwdriver known the mankind and it was way to big to be used as a pin puller. Also, when we finally got the pins removed from the housing it was way easy to run the wire up through the dashboard and into the column #ad
. Well, that's my story and I'm sticken to it #ad
. Just ask Mr. BP. #ad
Hey Blair, please correct me if I'm wrong here #ad
.


[This message has been edited by Cliffman (edited 08-29-2000). ]