poor starting

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My 1997 12-valve seems to be slower to start lately. It used to fire on the first revolution, but now takes 3 or 4. What are the likely suspects? Is there a non-return valve that should be examined?
Thanks.

 

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adiabatic,

My 97 12 valve has always taken several revolutions to start. Almost as many times as a PSD!! The 92 I had previously would start before it turned over one revolution. I had Cummins Southern Plains up the 97's idle speed(idled at 500 RPM in Drive and the A/C on)and that helped some.

I've found that if you put a SLIGHT pressure on the accelerator when cranking, the engine will start much more quickly.

Bill

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97 3500CC,Auto,4. 10LSD,All Options incl Leather,Pyro,Boost,Trans. Temp Gauges, PacBrake, 3 pos TC Lockup Switch, RPM 40Gal. Aux. Fuel Tank, Reese 20K Hitch, Highway Products Tool Box, 80% Towing 12,100lb. HitchhikerII 5'er. 2000 3500QC 6 Speed,4. 10LSD,SLT+ on Order since 9-23-99,"D-1" Order Status, St. Louis Plant, Ship Date: 11-30-99

 

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Mine seemed a little harded to start when the return fuel line was leaking. since I replaced that it is like it always started previously. Check the line that runs from the pump, behind the fuel filter to the metal lines at the firewall and check to see if it is cracked and leaking fuel.

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Ram Rod
'96 2500 club cab 5speed 4x4 3:54 pacbrake combo gauge and most all factory options
35' holiday rambler 5th wheel

 

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I'm in agreement with Larry, after about 3 years (+ or -) the return line starts to check & crack, and it sucks air. When it does, it allows fuel to run back towards the tank, requiring you to crank a little longer to get the fuel pulled back toward the engine. My 97 still fires on the first turn, but in the last week have noticed a fuel smell, and some wet areas around the starter. I've heard it's a hell of a job to replace the line because it's behind the starter. Someone else said it's easy though, just take the starter off so you can get to it... ... ... DDG

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Locomotive Engineer/Red Ram Driver! 97,2500,Auto,3:54,2WD,Solid Red,Loaded w/Leather, Diamond Tread running boards & box, "Bull Ring" tie-downs, Front bumper guards, TST 230 HP kit, K&N, Combo exhaust temp & boost gauge, Eng. & Trans. temp gauges. 3 Pos. Lock up switch.

 

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To add to what Dennis said, removing the starter is very easy, just remember to disconnect your negative battery cables first. You don't want to have your ratchet on the nut holding the starter lead come in contact with the frame while the circuit is hot.
Why disconnect the negative instead of the positive? For the same reason. If you've got a socket on the negative terminal nut, and the wrench comes in contact with the body, there will be no short circuit. If you were on the positive terminal, there would be. ZZZT #ad
!!
Andy

Hey Dennis, keep those freight trains rolling! If I'm ever in Kansas, can I go for a ride in one?

 

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My 97 started to slow in its starting several months ago and sometimes it would take several tries before starting. I finally had to manually lift the fuel solenoid to get the truck to start. That then answered my question as to the culprit, unfortunately I had already replaced my batteries thinking that they were getting old. The culprit was the fuel solenoid relay, Dodge replaced it under warranty, I believe the cost is in the $ 35. 00 range and can be done from under the hood. The relay is located above the fuel filter housing and next to the brake cylinder. I did save my "old" batteries for my boat, so I don't feel too bad about replacing them. The truck now starts at the slightest touch of the key. The funny thing about my truck was the only time the darn thing wouldn't start was when I was at the drive up of some fast food joint. Started to think the truck was worried about my health!

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97 SLT 2500, 4x4, 5sp, 3. 54, 255/85/16. TST 330HP plate, Banks Twin Ram Intake, 14cm housing and exhaust, K&N air filter, BD 60# exhaust brake, Pyrometer and Boost gauges, Centerforce Clutch, US Gear Overdrive, Rancho RS 9000 shocks, RS5000 steering stabilizer, Stull Stainless Steel Running Boards, Alpine 3D Shuttle and Polk Audio speakers

 

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I'd check the battery's first. Also my 97 fires right up with a tap on throtle. also check battery cables. Check easy stuff first.

 

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adiabatic, If you like I can scan and e-mail you the diagnostic procedure from the Factory manual if you like, just let me know. It saved me a lot of time and worry!

 

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My 95 was slow starting when I got it. I figued out that if you just rest your foot on the throttle it would kick right off. I had a mechanic buddy of mine set idle to 14. 5 degerees advance and then he adjusted the idle. It fires right up on the first revolution now and I don't have to rest my foot on the throttle.

 

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The idle adjustment on a 12V is very easy to do. Im my experiece the latter 12Vs will start much quicker with idles set at 800 or more. For those of us with 5sp this is a good thing. For those of you with Autos maybe not.

This is easy to check to eliminate it as the problem!

I usually increase my idle for the winter months (ND) and slow it down for the summer.

IT was described with pictures in the TDR.

jjw
ND