Poor uphill power

[DStinson]

Just returned from a trip to Colorado. '96 2WD CC with automatic, towing a 27' trailer, about 6,000lbs. 6 - 7% grades had to be climbed in 2nd gear at about 30 mph. Is this normal for the stock configuration? If not, any advice on things to check?

 

[paccool]

YOU NEED GAUGES FIRST OF ALL!! You can't tell what the engine is doing without PYRO and boost gauges minimum.



Check the fuel lift pump pressure, check the turbo hoses for leaks, check the intercooler for leaks, have the injectors checked (or replace with better performing ones), have the injection pump tested for proper operation. There are number of other things but these are what I would check first.



If you had a boost gauge, that would tell a lot about the turbo and hoses, and EGT would tell alot about the fuel side.

 

[DStinson]

Thanks for the tips. From the TDR articles, I didn't think an EGT gauge was important if I didn't play with the fuel side to increase the power.



I've looked over and checked the turbo hose clamps and other obvious leak sources. The fuel lines (and return) aren't easy to see. I think I'll focus on the lift pump and investigate a good guage set. I've been driving by the coolant gauge. I know if I run over 2000rpm the temp goes to 220 degrees fast.

 

[paccool]

now that you said that, I would be suspicious of the transmission or torque converter having a problem. What does the transmission fluid look like? If it is brown or smells burnt, you need to get it to a transmission shop and get things checked out.

Stan

 

[Bob4x4]

I never enjoyed towing with less than 600 lbft of torque I think you will find it much less stressful when you have options on what gear to use.



Bob

 

[Bug Out]

Just went thru Colorado too

Before you go spending thousands of dollars on do-dads, what elevation were you towing at?????



I just went thru Colorado and lost power too on grades while past 5000 ' and up in elevation. If you were that high or higher, its a normal process to lose power.



Theres a ratio out there somewhere that shows the loss of power per every thousand feet of elevation etc.





Ed

 

[DStinson]

Going west out of Denver; so I started at 5000'. Coming back east, it was 30mph up Loveland Pass, 11,000'. The aggravating part was being passed by other CTDs as well as Fords, which also were towing. So, I wanted to survey others to see if my experience was typical. The 3. 54 rear axle probably doesn't make it any better either.

 

[DLBurns]

Just returned from a trip to Colorado. '96 2WD CC with automatic, towing a 27' trailer, about 6,000lbs. 6 - 7% grades had to be climbed in 2nd gear at about 30 mph. Is this normal for the stock configuration? If not, any advice on things to check?

I just returned from Oregon and was at 27MPH in 2nd gear towing my fiver over the Siskyou's, ambient temps 85°, boost pegged at 31PSI, EGT's 1250°, transmission temps 220° ( got to get a lock up switch! )



With the mods in my signature I should have been able to do the speed limit without a problem



Freakin Fords and Chevy's were blowing my doors off!

 

[Bill Stockard]

Just returned from a trip to Colorado. '96 2WD CC with automatic, towing a 27' trailer, about 6,000lbs. 6 - 7% grades had to be climbed in 2nd gear at about 30 mph. Is this normal for the stock configuration? If not, any advice on things to check?

If you don't have it, get a copy of the TDR Magazine, Issue 27, and read an article titled "Speed Analysis/Realistic Expectations", pages 56,57, and 58. Robert Patton writes and excellent article why your truck performs as it does.



Bill

 

[I-6DZL]

I have the same truck, except 4:11's, mine was an absolute slug!!!!!!!!



UNTIL... .



I got guages, 3k GSK, #10 plate slid almost full forward, and now my trans is done and loving life!!



I can tell you right now even without seeing the hills, i can pull the same load, same everything, up that hill 65 to 70 MPH and gain speed without watching my EGT guage.



My truck is setup about perfect for towing anything and everything there is to be towed!



With that in mind i would highly suggest spending the cash on the above items as well as Valve Adjustment, Fuel hose replacement (in and out), BHAF, new fuel filter, and either stretch or replace fuel pressure spring. O and after all of the above, you might want to start checking into a trans or clutch.



Good Luck

Curtis

 

[C. Harlan]

The 3. 55 rear end will not affect it as much as everyone claims. I haul 10-14,000 lb cow wagons, and I actually like the 3. 55's... When I am not towing, I think it is better, actually. I would not worry too much about your fuel pressure, as the 6BT motor like you and I have are not known too often for the Fuel pump going out. I would focus on the transmission, and check for air leaks; both fuel lines and boost fittings. If it is indeed your transmission, would you be willing to get a modified diesel transmission like some of the people on here run (DTT, ATS, Suncoast, Etc. )?? Your truck definitely needs gauges, and then you can determine what the problem is. Best of luck to you, and hope you get everything resolved!



-Chris-

 

[Futures1]

Just returned from a trip to Colorado. '96 2WD CC with automatic, towing a 27' trailer, about 6,000lbs. 6 - 7% grades had to be climbed in 2nd gear at about 30 mph. Is this normal for the stock configuration? If not, any advice on things to check?

For what it's worth DS,

I have been hauling a trailer (16' utility) back and forth from TN to NH about every other month for the past 2 years. It is emprty going up and full coming down. Usually the truck bed is loaded as well. When there is no trailer being towed, I try to maintain 1750 RPM for the economy it provides. From time to time my towing power drops quite a bit which really concerned me the 1st time it happened. I purchased a bottle of "Meaner Power Cleaner" manufactured by "Howes Lubricator Products" at the first Flying J station I came to, and followed the directions on the bottle. within 2 tankfuls, my problem was gone and the truck was pulling like a champ once again. Now, I kick the throttle down through a few gears every now and then to clean things out and keep a bottle of "Meaner Power Cleaner" on hand for occasional use when the need occurs.

Hope this helps, Dick S.



BTW, I purchased my truck w/ 73 K on it in 2 years ago and put have put another 78k on it since. . it has run without a hitch, (except for a rusted brake line near the fuel tank area), I use only Amsoil throughout, change it at about 20k (filters every 5 or 6K) and realize nearly 25 mpg (24. 995 best) empty and approx. 16 mpg when towing.

 

[bodacious]

If overflow valve hasn,t be replaced, that would be my first guess.

 

[Joe G.]

DStinson,



You need an EGT and boost gauge so you can tell what is going on. Stock boost is about 18 PSI or so, maybe in the low 20s. If your boost is way below that then you have an air leak in your charge air system. One common air leak is the lower boots on the intercooler. They get cracks, sometimes from rubbing on the body sheet metal. Are you making much black smoke at the higher elevations? If not, you should be. My '95 would smoke like a forest fire at 11,000 feet when it was stock. Not much power at that elevation either. However, it would pull my 32' travel trailer (about 8000 lbs) better than you are reporting.



A fuel pressure gauge is also a good thing to have. You should be seeing fuel pressure above 20 PSI all the time on the highway. As low as 18 PSI is ok at idle.



I recently had a problem with low power in spite of my mods. The boost gauge told the story. I could barely make 15 PSI. There was a crack in the passenger side lower boot on the intercooler.

 

[RDelissen]

like mentioned in several of the above posts -> get gauges

They really tell you what's going on (or not) ... and don't ask how I know :-laf