New code P2281...Please help!

[Cummins12V98]

Thanks, I really thought it was 03-04, my mistake.

Say it ain't so Ethyl!!! Mistake and Ozy simply does not equate!!!

 

[ProLean]

IT's back! The p2281 code popped up as I was towing the TH again this time only pulling 11K in the mountains and it immediately cut boost to 17 psi. I'm so pissed. I had to turn around and go home because I had a lot more mountains to climb ahead of me. Limited boost means higher egt's and a cooked turbo if I kept at it. SO! I bit the bullet and bought a new MAF or TMAP (whatever the sensor is called) from Genos. I haven't had time to get into it yet so I don't know if that will fix the problem. When I got home, the code went away after driving my normal routine. Boost is back and the truck runs good. It only throws the code while towing and it's not like it's getting hot or overburdened when it throws it. It's SUPER frustrating because I'm afraid to tow my stuff anymore. I bought a new sensor, new boost boots and pipes (just in case it's a boost leak) and am going to clean the EGR valve (which, on a 14 I'm not supposed to have to do?) and will perform a boost leak test to see if I've got a hole somewhere. Anything else I should plan on doing? What else can cause the p2281 code? (Air leak between throttle body and MAF sensor)
What makes me crazy is that it is intermittent and only happens when I tow. If it were a boost leak or an EGR problem, wouldn't it be pretty constant? I do not want to take the truck to the dealer....I do not want them to reflash or update my ecm.
If anyone has any ideas or has experienced this issue, please fill me in. Thanks as always. Oh and one last question...would a new turbo cause this? I replaced a bad stocker with a Stainless Diesel drop in that I they call the towing 60 turbo. Billet aggressive wheel...etc.

 

[sag2]

Are you running a paper air filter or aftermarket?

 

[ProLean]

WIX paper filter.

 

[sag2]

WIX paper filter.

OK, I'm currently running a little experiment on P2281 being caused by washable air filters. Possibly upsetting the air flow past the MAF?
Wix paper should be completely acceptable, but it might be interesting to switch to a Mopar paper filter and see if it makes a difference. That is unless you were getting the code before changing to the WIX.

 

[ProLean]

I've used WIX paper filters for almost the life of this truck...at 138K miles. I can't imagine that would be my issue but I guess it could be anything at this point. If it were, why would it only be while towing? I can mash it on the freeway on ramp and it runs great right now.

 

[sag2]

The air flow may be upset, especially when working it hard where air flow is at maximum levels. Just a hunch at this point.

 

[Ozymandias]

'14 and no updates doesn't play well as we know they have been plagued with software errors that were corrected later down the road.

 

[Diesel85]

'14 and no updates doesn't play well as we know they have been plagued with software errors that were corrected later down the road.

Too bad software updates weren't free.

 

[Ozymandias]

Too bad software updates weren't free.

Yeah, but nonetheless essential for the functionality.
And a cheap fix compared to the parts canon.

 

[Lordsman]

Maybe check that air duct in the fender where air is being drawn into the filter box. I've heard it's susceptible to collapsing. Just a thought.

 

[Lordsman]

Sorry probably not that. I didn't check what the code stated. I was thinking low boost due to lack of intake airflow.

 

[ProLean]

So I've now replaced both boost tubes and associated boots (what a massive pain...RAM engineers need to be shot or reevaluate their calling in life), MAF sensor and cleaned the EGR valve. Now I have a NEW set of codes!! This emissions crap is for the birds. p2228, p1193, p046c and p049d. Code p046C and p049d both have to do with my EGR valve. Yes, I took the solenoid off to clean the valve but I did not move it in and out. Reinstalled it, verified the connections and now the codes are up. I can hear the EGR stay open and then the truck runs like crap. People are telling me that at 139k, that EGR is toast anyway. The valve is clean and works great, is there any way to get a new solenoid to replace the old one?
Those other codes have something to do with the other sensors in the intake other than the MAF sensor. I did clean all the sensors with electric parts cleaner and one of the sensors on the air horn got a dose of Super Clean degreaser which cleaned the carbon off of it. Can I test the sensors before having to go out and buy more sensors? This truck is quickly becoming a money pit.
I did get the recall on the emissions cheat/fix but I don't want to have a dealer mess with my ecu if at all possible. Oh and the intake side of the air filter all was clear.

 

[Ozymandias]

So you decided to use the parts cannon instead of diagnostics.

 

[JReichenbach]

My 05 had plastic tanks, swapped in an aluminum Banks unit before I had an issue. Its still hanging on the wall waiting for me to get tired of looking at it...

 

[Topzide]

Not sure about the EGR being toast @ 139K, as mine has 180K on it with no issues. Have you done the CCV maintenance on schedule? @139K, this should have been done twice with possible EGR and cooler cleaning, at least on the second time. Do you have manual for truck? This would be the best step in helping solve issues. Along with the wiring diagram to know the pin outs and wire colors to trace any issues. As @Ozymandias has stated, the parts cannon gets expensive vs taking time to diagnosis it.

Edit: After looking at code meanings, check all wiring connections(clean - bent pins), and wire condition. Maybe do a hard reset by unhooking batteries and letting sit an hour. Could be a hang up with the ECU and reset may fix.

 

[Topzide]

Looking at my service manual, most of the procedures are to check the harness for continuity and low ohm values. The next it goes on to check for shorts or battery voltage at sensors. The sensors run on the 5 volt network voltage in our trucks. Manual won't allow me to print out pages with diagrams to know which pins to check. Hopefully someone with AllData will chime in with the procedures. Worst case, PM me and we can set up a conversion time where I can read the manual procedures to you.

 

[ProLean]

Thank you Topzide. I have a friend who has access to the manuals and which pins to check. He's hopefully getting those for me. As to the parts cannon, its not that I want to spend money to spend money, I just try to do what I can to avoid the dealer and I don't really know what to look for on the diagnostic side. I have replaced the crankcase filter 2x already on the maintenance schedule and as I stated, just cleaned the EGR. The EGR was not that dirty and was moving freely. I saw somewhere that a 2014 should not need to clean the EGR cooler but maybe I misread that. The EGR codes both sound like the position sensor within the solenoid "is beyond learning limits" but I'm not sure how to do a diagnosis on that specific part. My truck is my daily driver so for me to "take the time to diagnose" is not always feasible...I need the truck to work now. Do I pay to take the truck in to the dealer only for them to tell me I need a $2000 EGR valve and a $1000 EGR clean two weeks down the road? Sometimes I have to throw a part or two at it to see if that will fix the issue. My buddy sent me the diagnostic tree from the manual on the code p2881 and I tried everything down the line to figure it out hence the new MAF and new boost tubes just to make sure they were not the issue.

 

[Topzide]

On mine, I did the EGR and cooler clean shortly after I acquired it, since it had 130K when I got it. Not knowing what was done at the first go, I figured I'd do both. Cooler had a lot of soot/dirt in it. I figure that you could do filter the do filter and clean of EGR system. Glad you have someone to help with manuals. They have the connector and pin listing to check the harness, then the valve and sensors. The manual has been a great resource for repairs. X2 on avoiding the dealer. Will say that I do use mine to get updates to help with issues that may come up.
One thing that the manual did have listed, was a bad/corrupted ECM! Not what you like to hear. Fingers crossed that's not the issue. I've got the factory manual for my truck. even though a 3500, the engine stuff should be the same. Standing by for the outcome.

 

[ProLean]

I went through and pulled all intake sensor connections apart and reconnected them. Made sure all my new boost pipe connections were tight and cleared all the codes. Pushed the brake2x and gas pedal 3x within 10 seconds and....NO CODES! I always checked and had the codes and now I do not. No EGR codes and I was literally on my way down to buy another EGR valve assembly the next morning. I then ran the truck hard for 35 miles trying to get it to code and got nothing. Still suspicious, I took it into the dealer in Scottsdale who stuck his computer on it and it said no codes present. I explained to him that I did not want the new recall download done and he said he did not blame me as several customers have reported less power after the new download. He then said go hook it up to the trailer and see what happens. I still do not trust this truck but I have to travel 180 miles to now go pick up my trailer and bring it home. I will ask my buddy with an F450 to be on standby to come help me get it home if it fails me again. I hate that.
Thank you guys for your help and I'll report back...hopefully with a good report. Looks like the parts cannon did come through...at least for the time being.