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Possible low power steering assist fix

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Retrax pro tonneau install

Oil Filter Change

Originally posted by PPillard

The filter was dirty and clogged, just as Tejas descibed. I was able to clean it well, but once re-assembled, my steering was still in the tubes.



I have to retract this statement :(. The next day after the cleaning surgeory, I took the truck out for good long drive. Apparently it needed the drive to really prime the system, as the steering perked up a bit. I pulled over and capped off the system with fluid (it was low after it finally primed), and she's been performing flawlessly ever since. Even cold morning startups have revealed plenty of pump for steering.



I purposely held back from posting this long to ensure that the pump was really doin' it's job for the long run, and I now I believe it seems to be fixed. Thanks Tejas, as you saved me the cost of a new ps pump. Oo.
 
Question: Would removing this plug be a way to drain the system?

I just changed my P. S. Fluid yesterday with a piece of 5/16 tubing, man I am tired of sucking fluid, I'll tell you that!
 
Steering pressure regulator parts

Hey does anyone have the correct order these parts go in, before I try this I would like to know just in case they scatter when they come out.



TIA

Dave:D
 
I am interested in this too. I don't want to have parts fly out and then really have a problem. My ps works fine, a little slow sitting still so if just cleaning the filter works, this is great. Amazing what you find out on this site.
 
Chipstien said:
I tried changing pumps to get rid of the dead steer to no avail. Finally someone on the TDR mentioned putting a washer underneath the spring in the check valve to bump up the pressure so I did this and guess what... ... WORKS GREAT. :) Thankfully I was able to get my money back on the PS Pump since that wasn't the problem after all.



How exactly does the washer fit underneath the spring? Is the spring accessed at the same location where you can clean the screen on the pump?



Charlie
 
I'm bringing this post back because it is excellent, and I have a question for those of you who pulled the valve and spring. HOW DO YOU GET THE FILTER OFF???? I tried every trick I know, including an impact ratchet and a vice. That thing was installed by G. O. Rilla. I ended up spraying it down with brake cleaner and reinstalling it. My low pressure, growling feedback is gone so the procedure does work. Is it really necessary to remove the filter? It appears that all the gunk is on the outside.



Oh, and thank you for the info Tx Diesel Oo.
 
Here's a link to some more ideas to fix the low power assist. I did this to my truck. I can now turn my 37" tires, dead stop, while in drive. I don't think I could do this before with the stock tires. Don't have to drill out the fitting, as it is already 5/32.



I also put a Magnefine filter in the return line to try to keep the crud out of the screen. Synthetic power steering fluid for the rest of the fix.



Brad
 
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GAmes said:
Is it really necessary to remove the filter? It appears that all the gunk is on the outside.



I'll answer my own question here. YES!!! After only about 3 miles of driving I experienced almost total loss of power steering while going around a corner, downshifting, engine at idle. I guess that the brake cleaner broke away enough gunk to clog the valve up completely. So I pulled the valve body out again, tightened my vice more than I liked and finally got the screen off. After cleaning and reassembly I also stretched the big spring out to about 2 1/4 inches. Works great!! I might pull it apart again later to install a washer inside the valve body, but right now I'm happy. Thanks BKirk for the link.
 
GAmes, did you access the valve body from underneath the truck? I looked yesterday and it appears that I can access it that way. What does the procedure consist of? Remove the high pressure line, then remove the main fitting, then remove and clean the filter screen and reinstall? Will I lose some ps fluid?



Thanks,
 
KEarnest said:
GAmes, did you access the valve body from underneath the truck?



Yes



What does the procedure consist of? Remove the high pressure line, then remove the main fitting, then remove and clean the filter screen and reinstall?



Yes, 18 mm wrench for the line fitting and a 1" socket for the main fitting. You may need a magnet to pull the valve body or the spring may push it out some. Remove the spring also, it should be 2 to 2 1/2 inches long. I think the screen on the valve body was 11mm. I put mine into a vise, put the box end wrench on it, then hit the wrench with a hammer a bunch of times. Even when it breaks loose it is very tight. There is a little ball bearing in there so be alert when the screen is removed.



Will I lose some ps fluid?



About a pint. While I had the stuff out I sprayed the inside of the reservoir and the hole where the fittings are with brake cleaner, then flushed it with new steering fluid.



Thanks,



You are welcome.
 
Texas Diesel, I got mine done and it improved the steering assist a lot. There definitely was a bunch of crud built up on mine, the screen was completely covered. Like PPillard, it took a good long drive to get the system primed up and running good even after I bled the system. Thank you and everyone else for their help with this. I took a couple of pics of the pump parts while I had them out



#ad




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Did it this weekend - all I can say is WOW!



Before I could not turn the wheels at any engine RPM unless the truck was moving. A real pain when backing a trailer. After, one finger can take it from stop-stop at idle.



One caution - make sure you put the parts back in the right order - double check. :eek: Spring-Flow Piston (with the screen in first)-Main Fitting. Yes - the flat face of the flow piston rests against the Main Fitting.



After using my trusty 18MM wrench to remove the high pressure line, and a 1" socket to pull out the main fitting I thought this was going to be a 30 minute job. However in my rush to reassemble I put in the flow piston BEFORE the spring, and had NO steering or brakes. One of those things that as soon as you realize it, you know EXACTLY what is wrong. No problem, just pull the main fitting out and reverse the order - WRONG. That flow piston is not coming back out with the magnetic power I had available (and would fit in the available clearance). So off comes the power steering pump. Stand it up, three light taps on the back of the case, and ping out comes the flow piston. 5 hours later my 30 minute job is done.



Oh well, with the return lines off and about 3 hours to drip out excess fluid (on my face) at least I know my system was well purged before refilling with Valvoline Synthetic PS fluid. :D



Refilling without line purging (the case where you do it right the first time) takes about 12 oz. Refilling after a good line purge and complete pump drain (the case where you screw up and pull the pump out) takes about 20oz. One quart covers both scenarios. :cool:
 
Good info............

I just did this mod while replacing the box and track bar.

I had a little trouble steering at idle when it was cold (idling slower than normal) so I thought I'd try this while everyhting was apart.

I'm still waiting on the parts, but I will post an update when it's all buttoned up.

Eric
 
Is ATF 4 everyones favorite pic fot the PS system ? Thinking about changing the oil and cleaning my screen.

Which one of the springs do you strech to get increased pressure for lighter steering?


As you can see below 37s-dont steer too easy.
 
rivercat said:
Which one of the springs do you strech to get increased pressure for lighter steering?
The big spring - the one labeled Piston Spring in the first picture.
 
Ok did took the valves out and the screen was clean. I took out ignition RUN fuse and turned over 30 secs to push as much fluid out as possible a coulple times. Streched the spring a little and no change. Now ABS and BRAKE lights are on. I want to do a COMPLETE change what would be the best line to take loose and run engine while pouring in new, I figure with the old stuff being a dark blood color and the new ATF-4 being magenta I could see the change when all the old is out and cut the truck off and reconnect the line. Any ideas on what would be the best line? Or would this mess up the brake system?
 
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