Possible low power steering assist fix

[ProspectorTim]

Bump - to make it easy for my friends to find!

 

[hackengineering]

I just performed this to my 2000 this weekend and it works great. I am seeing that i need to install a filter as soon as possible and then try to flush the entire oil system again. I would recomend this to anyone that is working around the PS pump just as good maintnence and prevention.

Great Thread.

CH

 

[Joe Mc]

Here's a question . . . if the steering pump mod increases psi and provides better dry surface stopped steering - has anyone noticed better brake performance???

 

[Mundgyver]

Your brake recovery will be quicker.

 

[hackengineering]

Here's a question . . . if the steering pump mod increases psi and provides better dry surface stopped steering - has anyone noticed better brake performance???

I did notice a substantial increase in break pressure.

 

[DerekW]

i've had bad luck on the power steering-power brake pump. im on my 3rd one, all under warranty. if you find anything out, let us all know. thanks

I went through a power steering crisis. 4 pumps in a week in a half. tips:

1. dont use advance autoparts pumps (i learnd the hard way paid for the 1st and 2nd n 3rd free)

2. install it yourself. tech love the pour fluid in it and go method. consult agr performance for proper bleeding methods prior to start up.

3. jack stands under the axle housing make the whole job easier. from getting all the old fluid out and bleeding new hydroboost, pump, or steering box.

4. use Mopar atf +4. teflon in power steering fluid and other transmission fluids isnt good.

5. my best money spent was at the dodge parts counter for a pump. came with new pulley installed at that.

 

[DerekW]

I just performed this to my 2000 this weekend and it works great. I am seeing that i need to install a filter as soon as possible and then try to flush the entire oil system again. I would recomend this to anyone that is working around the PS pump just as good maintnence and prevention.

Great Thread.

CH

just dont put the filter on the suction side and you will be fine.

 

[DerekW]

well i see plenty of yal have tried what i was actually planning this weekend. bought a used truck 130K miles 04. 5 brake pedal is hard, backing up a trailer even worse. truck wont pass inspection with pedal this hard. I was gonna try to pull the pressure regulator apart to check it and possibly cheat my way around installing a new pump in 15 degree weather on the driveway. Didnt expect to stumble on this on TDR, i was simply gonna consult an old stock pump off the other truck i have in a bucket in the garage. its easier to push buttons than look in the garage and navigate around the engine hoist, overhead creeper, stock parts for rams, jeeps, k5's, tahoes, burbs, burnt up transmissions, and slip on transmission fluid. This is why i pay for a TDR membership. you even made my job of explaining to the GF what im doing when i take her keys to her diesel from her. Keep the good post coming.

 

[Cliffman]

I performed the "spring stretch" and it helped for about 3 days and problem came back. Pulled the spring just to find that it went back to its original size. Installed the 3mm washer and it worked great for about 30 seconds until I snapped the shaft turning lock to lock. Purchased a rebuilt pump and installed it and now I'm right back where I started with low pressure at idle. What a PITA! After reading this thread I guess the people who do the rebuilds don't always put the correct size main fitting in the new pumps. So now what? Do I drill out the main fitting, stretch the spring or install the washer. Guess I’m a little gun shy as I don’t want to snap another shaft and have to R& R the pump again.

 

[GAmes]

I went thru 4 rebuilds from 3 different parts companies (NAPA, O'Reillys and Schucks) in about 6 months. I finally bought a new one from Mopar4Less. No more problems. I did get real proficient doing R & R:-laf



Get a seal kit for the vac pump, you'll need it. About $11 from Cummins.

 

[Cliffman]

For those of you that are having problems with your steering stalling at low rpm's . There is a sure fire way to solve this problem if cleaning the screen does not do it... The part labeled "main fitting" in the picture has a hole threw it that the fluid passes threw. Enlarge this hole slightly and you will have quite a reduction in steering effort... . DO NOT just hog this hole out with your largest drill bit !!! If you do you will have totaly effortless steering and you will most likely blow out the worm shaft seal ... Drill this hole out 1/64 th at a time till the stalling at idle problem goes away !



The "main fitting" is different from one car/truck to the next. The hole diameter is determined by the weight of the chassis and the steering gear being used. .

The people that rebuild the pumps often put the wrong "main fitting" in the pumps for the chassis that they list that they go in. .



As for the fluid that should be used, I cannot speak for the later trucks but for all of the first gen trucks only use POWER STEERING FLUID. . Atf is too heavy ! It will cause excessive pump pressures and cause the belt to slip on the pulley... It will cause belts to break and cause the steering to stall at low rpm's...

Help!!! pulled the above parts out of the pump and forgot how they go back in. Can someone please list the order is which these parts go back in the pump. Thanks!

 

[ProspectorTim]

Look at the pix in reply #41

Is that what you needed?

 

[Cliffman]

I'm talking about the whole assambley not the guts of the flow piston.

I think I figured it out.



First the spring then the flow piston with the screen facing inwards toward the pump and lastly the main body.



I sure hope that right...

 

[BigDaddy]

I have now done this fix on two pumps/trucks (2000 and 2001) and made an observation that has not been discussed here.



However, first I would like to thank all that have posted to this thread. Your information and time is greatly appreciated.



What I noticed was that both pressure regulators that I disassembled did not have shims as shown in the photos on Brad's (BKirk) site, but I did notice a gap between the Piston Housing and the End Cap.



Since spring tension is in direct correlation with the pressure output of the regulator I was concerned about this gap. So I measured the gap and found . 040" on the 2000 and . 045" on the 2001. See photo for gap.



#ad




My concern came from Cliffman's experience (post #69) and Brad's"Warning[\b]" about doing these changes individually where he "blew a section of the top of the steering box about 40 feet across the shop. "



Upon disassembly of the regulator I also noticed that both End Caps had some type of thread sealant. Perhaps Loctite. My assumption is that the manufacturer through a cost saving measure eliminated the shims to save money and simply gapped the End Cap and used thread sealant to prevent the End Cap from backing off.



After cleaning and before reassembly, I did some measuring and found that a full turn on the End Cap would give a gap of . 048". So, each flat or 1/6 of a turn would provide a gap of . 008". I set the gap to . 032”.



Now, keep in mind these measurements are approximate. The End Caps are far from being precision machined.



I also measured the Fitting through hole and found it to be the size of a #24 (0. 152") drill bit. I increased this diameter using a #21 (0. 159") drill bit. A slight difference of 0. 007".



Upon reassembly I used Loctite 242, medium strength thread sealant, on the threads of the End Cap. I did not stretch the spring because of Cliffman's experience.



I can say that each pump has turned out just fine

 

[Cliffman]

I have now done this fix on two pumps/trucks (2000 and 2001) and made an observation that has not been discussed here.



However, first I would like to thank all that have posted to this thread. Your information and time is greatly appreciated.



What I noticed was that both pressure regulators that I disassembled did not have shims as shown in the photos on Brad's (BKirk) site, but I did notice a gap between the Piston Housing and the End Cap.



Since spring tension is in direct correlation with the pressure output of the regulator I was concerned about this gap. So I measured the gap and found . 040" on the 2000 and . 045" on the 2001. See photo for gap.





#ad




My concern came from Cliffman's experience (post #69) and Brad's"Warning[\b]" about doing these changes individually where he "blew a section of the top of the steering box about 40 feet across the shop. "



Upon disassembly of the regulator I also noticed that both End Caps had some type of thread sealant. Perhaps Loctite. My assumption is that the manufacturer through a cost saving measure eliminated the shims to save money and simply gapped the End Cap and used thread sealant to prevent the End Cap from backing off.



After cleaning and before reassembly, I did some measuring and found that a full turn on the End Cap would give a gap of . 048". So, each flat or 1/6 of a turn would provide a gap of . 008". I set the gap to . 032”.



Now, keep in mind these measurements are approximate. The End Caps are far from being precision machined.



I also measured the Fitting through hole and found it to be the size of a #24 (0. 152") drill bit. I increased this diameter using a #21 (0. 159") drill bit. A slight difference of 0. 007".



Upon reassembly I used Loctite 242, medium strength thread sealant, on the threads of the End Cap. I did not stretch the spring because of Cliffman's experience.



I can say that each pump has turned out just fine

Nice post BigDaddy! My conclusion if the gap is a linear adjustment of the pressure rather an incremental adjustment using shims. I believe the factory measures pressure and then sets the gap (theory not fact). The bigger the gap, the less the pressure. By screwing the end cap all the way down you are in fact increasing pressure and by installing a shim/washer under the spring inside that assembly you are increasing the pressure.



The instructions supplied by the rebuilt pump manufacture said if you experience a loose of pressure after installing the rebuilt pump to use the pressure assembly from your old pump. Unfortunately I had already removed the old pump and exchanged it for the core charge when I picked up the rebuilt one. I'll never do that again!

 

[charlessmith]

A dumb question. Does the '95 - '96 power steering pump, with vacuum brakes, use the same pressure regulator assembly as the '97 and later trucks with hydraulic brake assist?



I ask, since I've got one of each. The '97 has very light steering and the '96 steering is real heavy - so it's a candidate for this cleanout.

 

[JFought]

okay got a problem. . I removed all prats from pump. the little part that has the screen and little spring has no "endcap" or threads for me to disassemble thepart to clean screen. My truck is an 06. any ideas?

 

[JFought]

cleaned put back toghter, no steering. .

could I possible have the small piston backwards? please help!!

 

[JFought]

I am missing the screen. but if i had it would it face up towards the pump. Or torwards the high pressure steering line?

 

[JFought]

alright> got it back in and working> i put it in the wrong order. but if I dont haev a screen ( and even the new unit i looked at did not have it either) how can i get it to run at higher pressure?