2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Power Distribution Center

[LDTaylor]

I lost all power to the instrument cluster. Everything reads zero. The odometer says, "no bus. " Found the problem with a lose connector at the main Power Distribution Panel. This is a 43-pin connector that is held in place with a centralized bolt. The bolt is stripped and will not tighten down. Holding connector firmly in place cures all my problems. A little jiggle and the dashboard fails. I even got the engine to die doing it one time.



The dealership says the only way to repair that stripped bolt is a replacement wiring harness for $1500 bucks plus 20 hours of labor to install.



Has anyone else experienced this bolt failure and have a clever repair?



This is a 2001 with 5. 9 cummins and 47RE transmission.



LDTaylor

 

[JLandry]

Could you try tapping the threaded boss slightly oversize and then install a new bolt?



John L.

 

[DirtyDodge]

I have never experienced this, but I would try every alternative before I dumped that kind of money into it. The suggestion above about tapping and trying another size bolt may or may not work but is sure worth a try. Wish I had something better for you.

 

[Loren]

LD,



Permatex makes a "Stripped Thread Repair Kit". It's their item number 81668. I think I got mine at an auto parts store. It's basically a fast-set epoxy with some release compound.



If you use it, DO NOT wait any longer than the instructions call for before removing the bolt from the nut. It WILL glue them together. (Don't ask how I know this. )



You should test on some scrap bolts and nuts before you use it on your critical piece. Epoxy is very sensitive to temperature and may set much faster than you expect.



Once it's done, it really holds.



Good luck.

 

[WalterRyan]

Long before I spent that kind of money I find a way to fix it. If it where mine I would find out what thread the bolt is and go by a Helicoil kit. The kit should only be about $25. 00 or so and will include about 6 inserts, the proper drill, a tap and an installation tool. Depending on the size a good parts store may have it. If not then try an industrial supply house.



Walt

 

[rweis]

The bolt is basically a clamp. Could you clamp it together a different way? Some sort of external clamp? Long zip ties? Block up under it so it enters the mating connector correctly, then build a clamping bracket, maybe like a C clamp out of 1/8" flat steel that will firmly hold the connector together.



Maybe an L shape bracket. Hinge the long end to the fender well end, flat stock long enough to get across the PDC to the connector end, weld a 90* "tab" on it so when the connector is dropped FIRMLY in place the L shape bracket will just barely go over the wire harness connector end and hold it FIRMLY in place. Sort of like a flat bar stock screen door hook, but the hook end holds the wire harness connector FIRMLY in place.



You can be very innovative for $1500 + 20hours at $150/hour.



What about getting a wire harness end from a junk yard and doing the 30 - 50 splices? or is the stripped bolt holder in the PDC end of it?



For $4500 I sure could sit down and do 50 splices.



Bob Weis

 

[Road Dog]

In my view, the bolt isn't needed for a good electrical connection. It's only there to keep the connector from vibrating out. The problem is the connector -- either the PDC side or the harness side. You need to get a big magnifying glass and inspect each terminal. Clean the dirty terminals and make sure they're all seated properly. (The wire harness connector is make by crimping a terminal to each wire and inserting it into the connectory block. It's supposed to lock in place but if it's loose it'll slide out the back instead of making a solid connection. In theory there's a tool for removing a single terminal but good luck sourcing it. ) You can use tiny brushes -- like those for a welding torch -- to get in there and clean the contacts.

 

[JGK]

I vote for the Helicoil approach.



-Jay

 

[LDTaylor]

Thank you all for your input. I managed to do it the easy way. We got the bolt out. The threaded nut in the PDC was fine. The bolt was stripped from vibration or overtorquing at the factory(?). We put in a longer bolt with a large washer on top for a much better grip than factory design. I put blue loctite on the threads and it tightened down nicely. Most of the vehicle relies heavily on that single connector. Easy fix once you figure it out.



LDTaylor