Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Power Question

[PKemp]

Okay, how about a #4 TST plate, Bigger delivery valves, 370 marine injectors and a 3k-GSK.

Would that work on a 95, 160hp daily driver?

 

[JGheen]

Your probably going to need a PDR HX40/16 to move all that fuel but other than that if you got the $$ go for it. Those bombs will really wake 'er up! I am thinking maybe at least 450 HP? Is your drivetrain going to hold up to it?

 

[1dslram]

You should get 350 H P at the rear wheels with the HX40 and have a nice driving truck. I would recommend the #10 plate it is a lot more adjustable than the #4. Less low end smoke and the same at the top end. Save your money for the valve springs and the center spring in the governor kit and you will have 4,000 RPM available. I love the extra RPM.

Bruce

 

[AWray]

Man that sounds like a wicked combo. With my current setup, things can get a little hot even when empty. If you go that route, a bigger turbo will be a must. I added a #10 as my first bomb and it made a nice increase in performance. It left me wanting more. I think the #4 would be okay with a HX40 or larger. Best of luck! Let me know if that setup works. I want to be in that 400+ hp club.



Aaron

 

[RBratby]

i have a 95 with 181 dv's,370's,a #6 fuel plate that i grinded flat timing at 16* with a stock turbo and i can say that it does get hot quick. if you are driving down the highway its fine. i cruise at 70 and egts are about 650-700. if you floor it from a light your egt gauge moves almost as fast as your boost gauge. i need help to pick out a good turbo for this setup also.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

it'll work w/ the stock turbo... been there/done that, but it'll get a little hot kinda quick... I'd at least put a 16cm housing on the stock turbo.

 

[PKemp]

How about spool-up on the low end with that big turbo? Does low end power suffer?

I have a new Pro-Loc tripple disc converter and super heavy transmission built by SunCoast so I think it will be okay, I am worried though about the rest of the drive line.

Sooo this looks like a good idea ????



JGheen: How is that twin ram intake? I've been trying to get one from Banks but they don't return emails... ...

 

[1dslram]

A Piers HX35 works great very quick spooling and good flow on the top end. I like the 14cm wastegated housing best they are pricey but I think they are worth it for a daily driver. Forget the twin ram unless you want to remove it every time you adjust the AFC housing or fuel plate. Most mechanics will charge an extra $50. 00 - $100. 00 because of the extra time involved removal and replacement of the unit. I don't even want to work on trucks with the thing it is just a real pain and the gaskets are from Banks only, and that can be real fun.

Bruce

 

[RT66DOC]

What about just getting a 14cm w/g housing? HT Turbo has them for not much dinero. What's the deal with that anyway? Just replace your stock 12 cm with the 14? Would that be enough turbo for 215 pump with #10, 3kGSK and 370s? I too am most interested in low end power.



Forgive my ignorance but I'm not really up to speed (so to speak) on turbos yet. I have a book about turbos but it's for small block chevys. Had my fill of turbo lag in a German gasser, ie. nothing until 3200 rpm then afterburner thru 6000.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I've got a stock 61mm 6 blade HX40-16w. it's a lag pig... but I see full boost around 2,000, and then hold on!



the stock turbo made instant boost, but the truck didn't do anything but send EGT's way up above ~2700rpm. now it pulls good and hard through 3500rpm.



I don't pull heavy loads, so it works great for me. I'm currently at 9,000ft altitude, and it isn't that bad actually. I would like it to spool up quicker, but for a $250 investment, I'm not complaining



Forrest

 

[mullady76]

I have that same setup, but the 4k GSK in a 180 hp pump. A little bit smoky on the low end, just roll in on the throttle and its fine. EGTs get up there pretty quick with the stock turbo. As long as you dont tow with it you should be fine. The guys at HHT recommended thier stage 2 compressor upgrade for my set up. Since I dont tow I wanted something that spools right away.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

the stock compressor really isn't all that bad... I'd swap out the turbine housing before I messed w/ the compressor side... the compressor is capable of making more power than can easily pass through that bottleneck of a 12cm housing!



Forrest

 

[PKemp]

Okay... . Can I put a 14cm turbine housing on an HX35? Or can you put a 16cm housing? Waste Gated or not?

I see some people are using 191 DV's, can you use the 181's ? Which would work better with 370's? And why a 4GSK ? Isn't that getting a bit high on the RPM side? I'm getting a little confused here... ...

 

[RT66DOC]

the stock compressor really isn't all that bad... I'd swap out the turbine housing before I messed w/ the compressor side... the compressor is capable of making more power than can easily pass through that bottleneck of a 12cm housing!



Forrest

OK, so what you're saying is that just swapping out the 12cm w/g housing for maybe a 14 would not be a dumb idea? I know alot of gents here have the 16 non w/g but I'm leery of a lagpig because most all of what I do is between 1800-2700. Is it really necessary to go to HX40 to manage around 400 hp?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

a modified HX40 is nice, but they're pricey! my stock HX40 is a little laggy, but not TOO bad...



I think a 16cm non-wastegated housing would flow better under most circumstances than a 14cm wastegated, and it's considerably cheaper.



and no, it would not be foolish to just put a larger turbine housing on the stock turbo.



it really depends on what your definition of "manage" is... the HX40 will allow you to USE 400hp easier than an HX35, but you'll still be able to use it w/ a 35, just not as long at one time!



also, an HX35-16 is a totally different animal from an HX40-16... it'll spool up considerably quicker, and you'll be fine with an 1800+ RPM stipulation.



Forrest

 

[PKemp]

Mark from Piers said the best way to go about this to have good spool-up on the low end and plenty of air otherwise would be to go to twins.....

I'm pretty leery about this because of the dramatic expense of twins. Is there an alternative? Like maybe the HX35 and a 16cm turbine?

 

[PKemp]

a modified HX40 is nice, but they're pricey! my stock HX40 is a little laggy, but not TOO bad...



I think a 16cm non-wastegated housing would flow better under most circumstances than a 14cm wastegated, and it's considerably cheaper.



and no, it would not be foolish to just put a larger turbine housing on the stock turbo.



it really depends on what your definition of "manage" is... the HX40 will allow you to USE 400hp easier than an HX35, but you'll still be able to use it w/ a 35, just not as long at one time!



also, an HX35-16 is a totally different animal from an HX40-16... it'll spool up considerably quicker, and you'll be fine with an 1800+ RPM stipulation.



Forrest

Forrest: Okay, I guess your answer beat me to the question. So a Hx35 with a 16cm housing then. But what do you mean by a "1800+ rpm

stipulation" ??? As you can tell, I'm pretty lost in this area..... What is a "modified HX40/16" ???

 

[Forrest Nearing]

you said you worked the truck in the 1800-2700 range. I think a 16cm HX35 will work well.



twins are the best setup, but even if you can put a set together cheap (as I've done) all of the stuff you gotta do to support them will cost you too!



Forrest

 

[JGheen]

PKemp,



the Banks twin ram intake really didn't do anything for my power(as everyone has told me they have seen no improvement on a dyno), but Banks claims it give you more power. I have not had my truck on a dyno to confirm this theory, but i believe it distributes the air to the cylinders more equally and improves flow(improves flow IMO, but others will disagree). I don't want to get into an arguement with anyone over this but i believe it made my truck run a little better. I don't have anything other than the intake and turbine for Banks products, just lost belief in them after I joined this site and learned about all the other things I could have done without paying friggin' $2000 for that stupid Banks PP.

Also, as for accessing anything underneath the manifold, I can take my AFC housing off and move my plate anytime I want to without removing the intake. Don't know why everyone has issues with accessing the AFC and fuel plates with the intake on. It was even easier with the stock intake, and not much harder with the Banks intake.



Oh, BTW, anyone at Banks never returns e-mails, or phone calls. They spend too much time with coffee breaks or something. I too had tried to get them to send me some gaskets for months on end and finally got a hold of someone about 6 months after my first e-mail.

 

[1dslram]

The 14 gated housing will flow about the same with the gate open as a 16 not gated but will spool alot faster on the low end, this is why I recommend it for daily drivers up to about 350 hp. Forrest is right the stock HX40-16 is very laggy about the same as the H2E I had, but the H2E gives about 25% more air at the top end. Above 300 hp a properly built HX40-16 will spool almost as fast as an HX35-16.



I have used several HTT turbos and have really liked them they are performing very well especially at the price. I don't know how their HX35 spool and boost but the Piers 35 is a completely different animal from a stock 35 and well worth the money for the trucks at lower HP and really shines when pulling a trailer.



The Piers HX40-16 I have now spools a lot faster than the H2E and about the same as the HX35-16 the big difference is when HT3B kicks in at 17# from the HX-40 at that point the boost raises faster than EGT's and the smoke clears up real fast.

Bruce