Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) power steering?

[rattle trap]

experiencing a rather odd problem with my power steering. first off correct levels of clean appearing fluid, no leaks, squeaks, or other noises. the steering wheel also turns just fine.



my issue is the power steering pump seems to kill the engine sometimes.



this occurs in parking lots mostly. if i turn the wheel from a stand still to manuever a tight spot AND have the a/c on, it will die out. doesnt stumble or anything, kills the engine rather quickly.



now if i turn the a/c off the problem occurs much less frequently. i can still replicate the problem w/o the ac though.



if i turn the wheel hard to one side to get into a parking lot and am at a stand still and turn the wheel the other way it dies.



this mostly happens when in reverse, backing out of a parking spot but infrequently happens in [D] as well. if i am rolling and slowly turning the wheel i can go lock to lock. if i am stopped, turn the wheel and try to move it will die.



any ideas? what should i be looking at first?

 

[WilsonF]

Just a guess but is your idle setting high enough? Read a neat post about cleaning the filter screen in the pump but don,t know if that pertains to your problem.

Floyd

 

[rattle trap]

i read a few of those different posts. the things you mention all seem quite likely.



so my next question is, is there a cheap way to confirm idle speed?



everyone claims the tach is inaccurate and my fsm says not to use the tach for idle adjustments.



what is inaccurate? the pickup or the display (tach)?



if the pickup is a reliable signal, then i should be able to use my multimeter to read the frequency of the signal, keeping in my mind to divide by 30. so i should be reading something like 25hz(12. 5rpms per second x 2 waves per revolution), correct? i havent ever used my frequency clamp so maybe that wont work.



i guess if it doesnt this will give me an excuse to buy the laser tach lol.



now i know most guys did not use anything like this and the fsm says not to use the dash tach, so what did these guys use

 

[charlessmith]

If you are killing the engine when turning the wheel tight against the lock, don't turn into the lock quite as hard.



When the engine dies "quickly", it's because you got the RPM down below the point where it will run. It's not a problem with the engine, it's just turning too slowly.



You might just set the idle up 50 RPM or so. As long as the truck doesn't pull hard when idling at a stop (and if you don't have a really tight torque converter), you can stand another 50 RPM on the idle. Here's how to adjust the idle.



Don't worry about the "correctness" of the tach, just add 50 RPM to where you are now.

 

[rattle trap]

so higher idle rpm also makes the truck easier to start?



if i just jump in and turn the key it will crank all day long. this confuses non diesel people who are helping me.



if they/i slightly press the gas pedal it fires so fast i cant hear it crank.

 

[WilsonF]

Yes try another 50-100 RPMs. I don't know if it will help the starting but I would think it would. Let us know what you come up with.

Floyd

 

[rattle trap]

i will keep this updated. i might be able to get to it maybe monday or tuesday if i can find an assistant to help watch the gauge. either that or do the 1 turn at a time, get out from under the hood, check in the cab, and go back.



actually im pretty sure im idling low, im gonna go take a picture of my tach while idling in gear, with brakes applied, and a/c on. its kinda hard to tell what im idling at since its incremented unevenly.

 

[JGK]

I've never heard of the tach being particularly inaccurate. Assuming it's reading pretty close to true rpm, I believe you should be idling at about 825 - 850 in gear with the A/C on.



-Jay

 

[DieselDoghouse]

And remember, unless I've lost it, on our trucks the A/C comp is just a load, not a signal to boost rpms cause there's no software control of idle!!

 

[rattle trap]

ok if the tach is correct, it appears that i have a 400rpm idle with a/c on, in gear against the brake (like a stop light).



i didnt notice this before, and i swear it seems to have moved further down. im impressed it even runs at that rpm



now, i will have to turn the screw. before i turn anything i would like to have a little more understanding on this topic.



as far as declining idle speed, what is happening? is the bolt slipping back out? is something internally wearing? does this indicate any other issue? i have no problem "fixing" the idle but i want to understand the root-cause more closely.

 

[charlessmith]

At idle, the throttle control lever rests against end of the idle adjustment bolt. Sometimes the end of the bolt gets a worn spot, and this lowers the idle.

Don't worry about accuracy of your tach. Read the idle speed in neutral with A/C on. Shut the engine off. Adjust the idle control bolt a little bit. Now check the idle speed - and check to see if it pulls very hard when you put it in drive and let off the brakes.

 

[JGK]

rattle trap,



I didn't notice any mention, but do you have mods to the engine, in particular, a GSK? Your idle issues should start there first if you do. Otherwise, just adjust the idle stop as suggested.



-Jay

 

[rattle trap]

i am a rather recent owner of a truck that has roamed the road since '93. with that said, i cannot see any signs of tampering. the AFC doesnt appear to be tampered with either. it doesnt smoke except maybe a light opaque haze on transition to full throttle.



it doesnt seem to run out of steam as early as some guys report. will run hard to atleast 2500 and in one case ran to 2800 before massive defueling began.



boost also seems higher than a stock 94 automatic should be with 28psi max numbers.



none the less it doesnt show signs of bombing.



it does kind of act the way people describe a GSK such as sudden throttle blip causes it to stall once in a while if it closes to fast. there isnt anyway the previous owner would spend the time nor the money to install a GSK, he was too busy paying the chysler/jeep dealer to change his oil every 3000 lol.



i took a picture for reference. this is in gear, ac on, idle. pay no attention to the oil pressure gauge

 

[GCroyle]

Can't do that!

Can't say pay no attention, now you GOTTA x-plain what that is. Shoulda framed the picture different, or black tape or something. Is it Metric KPA or ansgtrom units or something else?

 

[rattle trap]

heheh

i "believe" it is Kpa, i ve only ever used it as a general reference point. i think that should be about 40psi in any other dodge ram i ve ever seen ???



i freaked out when i first saw it because i thought those numbers were coolant temp.



had i posted a picture of the actual coolant temp you would understand my initial mix up. only ranges from "60-110"



really i have no idea or back ground story to go along with this. i had just happened to notice mine didnt look like others.



the tach, speedo, volt, and fuel all appear identical to every other dodge cummins i ve seen of this particular era.

 

[GCroyle]

"Northern Model"

Do you think maybe you have a Canadian market model?



KPH vs. MPH etc?

 

[GCroyle]

Back to your original problem, I'm not a steering or hydraulic engineer, but is it possible that your power steering pressure relief valve is stuck closed and it deadheads when you turn hard and hit the steering stops? Some or most cars tend to squeal a bit when this happens. The pressure has no where to go and it can stall the engine under low RPM, AC on maneuvering conditions?



Good luck.

 

[rattle trap]

the speedo is mph major/kmph minor (small numbers under mph)



canadian? i dunno. would dodge be weird enough to make a different oil and water gauge but leave the speedo in mph?



id have to wonder what else could/would be different. the only thing i do know is the doors and engine are stamped 1993. i havent even looked at CPL or serial yet. i need to so my buddy can use quick serve and get me some manuals.

 

[rattle trap]

i guess my description was misleading when i described hard turn, i didnt mean any dead head wheel lock action. i only meant more than a mild turn.



maybe my pump could have issues, i dunno.



looking at my tach, about how many rpms is that? its hard for me to tell with the odd/uneven 0-1000 increments.

 

[mfburns]

You said it is idling at 400 RPM. I am no expert on this but I think the thick line below the needle is the 500 RPM line in this area of the gauge. Note how there are only two lines in this section, one thick line like the 500 RPM lines in the other areas and one thinner line like the 250 and 750 lines in the other areas. Never read this any place but that is how I read it on my truck. I believe you are runnung around 600+ RPM at idle.