Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Power upgrade

[jaybigboy34]

I have a 2002 HO six speed diesel. I have a power puck box on it right now. I am thinking about upgrading. I was thinking of installing some DD'3s, a comp box, dodgezilla turbo, exhaust, and of course some gauges. What is everyone's thoughts and opinions. I am new to the website, so any help would be great!! Also, what size turbo should I get, and where is the best place to get gauges?



thanks

 

[klaybus]

First Step

Sounds like you've got a good power plan to me, but the absolute first step should have been gage's! I'de do them NOW before I did anything else. You've got to know whats going on with the engine especially when you start bombing.

I haven't even bombed mine yet, but the gage's were the first thing installed as I tow a small 5th Wheel.

Happy Bombing!



Clay



Ooops... . Here's a link to where I bought my A-Pillar & gages... Click on the gages button.





http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/dodge

 

[csevers]

What do you do with

The truck? Do you tow heavy or pull a boat. Depending on how you use your truck you may not have to have the turbo right a way, but in never hurts to be prepared either. Good places to get gauges- Piers,Wildcat,Geno's Garage,Smokindiesel.com. or were ever you get the best price and service.



Craig

 

[Car_nut57]

What ever you decide to do for upgrades, get the gauges first so you can monitor what effect each mod has on the truck.

 

[Sixpack]

You better work a South Bend Clutch into your budget!

I agree with the above, gauges first! Phil

 

[JR2]

Gauges First



Then assuming you don't tow very often I would do the injectors and comp box, leaving the pump wire unhooked till I got a new clutch. Then get a 4" exhaust and do the turbo at the same time. Somewhere in there you need to do an aftermarket air filter, I would suggest an AFE or Scotty2 or at least a BHAF (fleetguard AH19037).



As for turbo size, I have DD3's and a DragComp box and run a PDR-HX40. It works well and I have a little lag, but not too bad. In the summer I can see 1400 degrees at WOT on 5x5 (remember the drag version fuels way past 2700 rpm and gets hot fast) but in the fall and winter I only see 1200 max. I would say get a HX40 sized turbo. I want twins but that is another story.



Good luck and get those gauges.





JR2

 

[jullrich]

are you thinking of stacking the comp w/ the power puck, or replacing the puck w/ a comp. because you can't stack ANYTHING with an edge comp, but you can stack w/ a tst comp

 

[jaybigboy34]

Thanks for all of the replys. I will make sure to get the gauges first. As for what I use the truck for, I haul cattle 4 to 5 times a year on some pretty steep mountains. The rest of the time I just like to climb mountains empty. I don't understand stacking the comp with my power puck? How do you do that? Also where can I find the south bend clutch? Would getting the injectors and comp box with the south bend clutch be the best way to go? Is this too hot of a setup without the turbo and exhaust? Thanks for all the help.

 

[jullrich]

YES! you need exhaust. you can see my profile, and i run EXTREMELY hot on many occasions, especially pulling, even w/ that larger turbo.

 

[csevers]

Some boxes can be "stacked" like the EZ is a timing box and the tst is fuel only box so "stacking" them makes for more/better power, the PE Comp box does timing and fuel adding. Stacking is pluging both boxes in at the same time but in the right order to get them both working. I don't know anything about the Puck so I can tell ya if it is a timing box or both. There three places to call for a clutch South Bend clutch , Haisley , Enterprise Engine they all have good clutches for various purposes. With DD3 injectors you shouldn't need to run the Comp on kill all the time, you could run it on 1x3 or 1x5 for timing and be able to pull hill/mountains very well just watch the exhaust temp.



Craig

 

[Hohn]

I tend to favor injectors over boxes for BOTH ETC and ETH trucks. They're much smoother and easier on the driveline. And you have more control over them-- the fuel pedal doesn't get so touchy (never mind your cruise control!).



If you have a certain HP goal in mind, I would get at least 70% of that hp from the injectors.



IOW, instead of buying DD2s and running a Comp on 5x5 or a PMAX on 9, I would get a DD3 or a Mach 3 and run the box on 3x3 or whatever is roughly equivalent.



When you start cycling the solenoid on the VP a the higher levels (i. i install a wire tap box), it really stresses an already fragile pump.



Keeping the box turned down will give you both the massive gains of the fueling boxes while still protecting the pump from undue strain.



Personally, i would go for some MACH 3 EDM injectors and a DDUFM, and just run it on 4x5 max.



Justin

 

[isb360]

Hohn,



With wire-tap boxes like the TST PM3, does each different setting on the box set a fixed VP duty cycle, or does pump duty cycle vary with throttle pedal pressure? In other words, if you had the box on #5 setting, would that command the VP to always have the same solenoid duty cycle?



I spoke to Wildcat and they recommended a box first, then injectors (F1 Mach 2's or equivalent). They also mentioned that they could get a "custom" programmed PM3 box for me which would combine the extra fueling of the "PM3 Comp" box at lower rpm ranges, but be adjustable in steps equivalent to the PM3 box. This sounded like a good combo to me as it seems that the PM3 comp box will really push the VP duty cycle to near/above it's max recommended limit.



Your thoughts?



Tim

 

[Hohn]

Tim, sorry it took me so long to get back to you.



I am pretty sure that the adjustable boxes do NOT "fix" the duty cycle of the VP solenoid. Otherwise, you would not be able to vary the amount of fuel injected, and the truck would run at WOT always.



The fueling boxes have their own fuel curves built into them, which includes how fast and how far the the duty cycle is raised. The % number usually associated with duty cycle (like the Blue Chip box, which goes to 63%) is the MAXIMUM duty cycle that the solenoid will see at any point in the box's fueling curve. There may actually be a plateau on that curve that will hold the solenoid at that maximum rate for more than just a certain rpm.



For example, the PMAX comp on the highest setting will kick in FULL fuel at only . 5psi of boost. But the box also refers to that RATE that boost is rising to calculate how much fuel it dumps in. I dunno if pedal position matters at this point.



So if the "full fuel" is about 72%, and it comes in at . 5psi, then you could theoretically have the pump putting out the same amount of fuel from like 1500 rpm up to your shift rpm. In this case, the fueling curve is a plateau, and your fuel pedal will basically act as an on-off switch. After all, it IS the competition version!



I am uncertain, call TST. They were very helpful when I called them, but I didn't ask them all the questions I wanted to.



Justin