Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) prime loc replacement hoses

[jpogue]

Any idea on what to use to replace these hoses? Prime loc doesn't make the kit anymore or sell replacement lines. They recommended going to somewhere that has hydraulic lines to see if they can match up. One was rubbing on the throttle linkage,it's not leaking yet but figured I'd replace it anyway. I thought about just getting a double end barb fitting the size of the line and replacing that way. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Any idea on what to use to replace these hoses? Prime loc doesn't make the kit anymore or sell replacement lines. They recommended going to somewhere that has hydraulic lines to see if they can match up. One was rubbing on the throttle linkage,it's not leaking yet but figured I'd replace it anyway. I thought about just getting a double end barb fitting the size of the line and replacing that way. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I had a PrimeLoc kit on my formerly owned '97 CTD 3500 dually, but it was years ago. IIRC, those hoses were Stratoflex with reusable ends. If in fact that's what they are, any heavy duty truck dealership or a heavy duty truck parts store should be able to custom make new hoses for you re-using the ends on your hoses.

Bill

 

[Shadrach]

Take the hose off and go to any shop that sells Aeroquip or any brand of braided hoses. It is common stuff. As said above almost any HD shop can make them. I've made lots of hoses like that over the years. The fuel lines for my AirDog are made of the same type of material. David

 

[jpogue]

Take the hose off and go to any shop that sells Aeroquip or any brand of braided hoses. It is common stuff. As said above almost any HD shop can make them. I've made lots of hoses like that over the years. The fuel lines for my AirDog are made of the same type of material. David

Thanks guys I appreciate the help. I managed to track down a specialty hose shop close by. The strange part is this last week my truck would start run a second or two then die. Research here and a phone call to Bpine both turned up leaking return line so while tracking down fuel lines I found the worn fuel line. Even stranger my truck has been running fine now the last 2 days. Don't worry I'm still going to replace worn line, return line, supply line , and bypass fuel heater. I ordered supplies from Larry B. Oh and also putting studs on for lift pump. Not exactly what I wanted to do on vacation but it's gotta be done

 

[GAmes]

I suggest you just remove the fuel heater, don't bypass it. The prefilter screen increases the lift pump life.

 

[jpogue]

Thanks GAmes I did the fuel heater removal. Now I have another problem. I've got most everything put back together and I didn't note how to re hook up fuel lines to the relocator. If anyone has a copy of the instructions I'd greatly appreciate it. I looked at the post Genos fuel filter relocator and it gives the diagram but doesn't go into specifics on the instructions as to which line goes where. Any help as to what goes where would be fantastic

 

[khalsey]

Option 1
Remove the filter head (FH'101) from the bag, take out all shipping plugs and Btow Att ports two blue plastic shipping plugs clean. Remove the from the solid end of the two fuel-hoses (plH-leo) and apply sealant to threads. (lf using Teflon tape for sealant, do not allow any tape over tne eno of the treads - loose tape can clog fuel galleys') Take this end of the hose and carefully turn into the hose adapter {HA-1og) on the remote head. Be sure to keep blue plastic plugs on other end of hose to keep free of dirt. Use a crowsfoot or regular wrench to tighten until snug' lf you are using a torque wrench tighten to zoN-m 1is ruru..1, Do not over-tighten.
Pp!!on2
After blowing the filter he'ad (FH-l01) ports elean place it in a vise equipped with soft jaws with the filter head stud (FHS-102) pointing up. coat both hose fitting threads (FAF-108) with pipe thread seatant (Teflon tape) and insta, the hose fittings into both threaded ports of the hose adapier (HA-1og) Tighten to 25N-m [20 futbs.]. (lf using Teflon tape for sealant, do not allow any tape over the end of the treads - loos" tape can clog fuet galleys.)
STEP 14
With the bracket now firmly mounted on intake manifold; peel back the plastic from the 4 holes in the narrow end of the bracket' (Do not remove more plastic than necess ary I ttiiuntfiltei head on bracket using the four (4) 3lgx16x3t4 stainless steel button screws (FHB-105). Be sure that t'ne z pJp" plugs are facing the front of the engine and the hose adapter is facing the rear. (see figure 4-to ensure propir ptacement.) using a 7t32 Altenwrench, tighten the 4 button screws evenly and torque io z5N--m [20 fulbs.]. n'ecoulr bracket with protective plastic until installation is complete. lrrrr I Y' ursvrl
STEP 15
Be sure to read fhis sfep carefutly. Remove the blue protective cap from the end of the hoses. lf you chose option 2 be sure to remove black tape before continuing. connect lhe center hoteof the filter adapter (FA-106) with the hole in the hose adapter (HA-l09) which is aosesttitni erqiii.'rnln connect the outside hoteof the filter adapter (FA- 106) to the outside hote of the hose adapte(HA-109); the rirtell-e"ai;;Gffiing on which option you chose (1 or 2); you will be connecting the swivel end of the hose to either the hose adapter (HA-1og) or the filter adapter (FA'I06) Route hoses in such a way as to not interfere with engine or vehicle operation. Tighten with 5/B and g/16 open-end wrenches' (Torque for hoses is 25N-m t2Oftllbsl.) getore compteting this step make sure the hoses are connected as specified above

 

[jpogue]

Thank you khalsey I appreciate it