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pulling getrag/clutch…what else to do?

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Temp sender.

Do I need a new one or can I run with it?

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I need to pull down the trans and clutch on the 91. 5 for inspection. I've no idea how long it's been since this was done, maybe never(?). Any thoughts on what I should do while it's apart? Any upgrades I should make? What clutch do you recommend? thanks.
 
I am about to do the same thing.



I have had sugestions from buying another $600 sachs, a LUK for $350, or many others. Don't know what to think.



Got my bearings and shims for the trans though ready to go.
 
ARhine: after a brief search of the 1st gen forum, seems most folks go with the south bend con fe. There were a number of folks with luk clutches, too; and a few sticking to the stock clutch. I think it was 1stgen4evr who said he thought it was best to over-build it and then not have to worry about it again for 250k. I assume by that he meant put in the south bend as it seems to be the choice of the high hp crowd and thus able to handle whatever we throw at it. Oh yeah, and there was a heated discussion on the centerforce clutch, too.



Anyone other thoughts?
 
I put in a SB conOFE. It was smoothe and required very little pedal effort. If you're not making much over stock, then the Sachs is a very good choice. It's bigger at 13" than any aftermarket clutch you get unless you get a 13" from SB or LUK, but both of these will require a different flywheel.
 
Paychk said:
If you are going to tow trailers stick with the Sachs! Go here they have the Sachs clutch kit and it was $450 with shipping (I believe). Good people to deal with.



The actual price was $439 & free ship, this was in April 05.



http://www.clutchexpress.com/products.htm



Say they don't cary them anymore... She looked it up and you were actually the last person to buy one.



Trying to talk me into a LUK pro gold. for $50 less.
 
ARhine, I know Piers sells them, quad4x4 does too I believe. I got mine @ Wickliff in KY. They were the closest dealer I could find to where I live and it saved a little on freight. They were easy to deal with too. The link you gave is the conFE and I had the conOFE. It was feramic on one side and organic clutch material on the other side. It worked flawlessly. Unless you are making a tremendous amount of power, the OFE will hold and is smoother than the FE. Right before I sold my truck I put down 298/659 and I couldn't slip it.
 
Good eye, bgilbert! You seem to be the clutch police around here. Thanks! I will definitely go with the stock Sachs--1st gen, not 2nd. From what I've seen here this week, there is simply no other choice.



Now as for my other question, anything else I should look into while I'm in there?
 
That just may be a picture for some other application, the P/N listed is right (matches my receipt) but I would ask the question is the pressure plate cast iron or pressed steel?
 
I second what Mr. Paeschke said about the roller pilot bearing. It is money well spent.

I think the Sachs box just has a generic picture on it. I think their shipping may be a little low for that heavy pressure plate.

It is also the best time to check the rear main seal and crankshaft end-play while you have it apart. Just remember a careless install on the rear main can turn a small leak into a really bad one.
 
Paychk said:
That just may be a picture for some other application, the P/N listed is right (matches my receipt) but I would ask the question is the pressure plate cast iron or pressed steel?



I emailed the seller this morning and had them look in the box, it has the cast iron pressure plate. Looks like a good price.
 
bgilbert said:
If you compare this Sachs clutch pic in this thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150373, to the one pictured from that ebay seller, they are totally different. The epay clutch looks more like the 2nd gen clutch pictured on that thread. Stick with known reputable vendors, pass on epay.



There's no picture of the clutch on the ebay auction. Just a pic of the box it comes in, which is a generic box pic. The clutch is the CORRECT one. It's the same as the pic of GIT-R-Done's old clutch in the link you attached. Plate is very very heavy cast. Yes, it only comes with a pilot bushing and not a bearing. But it's a 100% Sachs and 100% copy of the OE. I bought mine from ebay cause I'm not going to pay high prices for a vendor's "name". Also it's 13". I'll try to attach pics of the one I got on ebay.



Earl
 
ARhine said:
The 20, 75, or 100 dollar one?



Is it pretty easy for a local machine shop to make it fit?



I went with the $20 & any competent machine shop can mod the flywheel. The main thing is to accurately locate the flywheel on the original ceterline and then bore it out to match the new bearing, while leaving a small step at the rear of the bore. The step is to prevent pushing the bearing out of the flywheel by the input shaft.
 
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EZeis said:
There's no picture of the clutch on the ebay auction. Just a pic of the box it comes in, which is a generic box pic. The clutch is the CORRECT one. It's the same as the pic of GIT-R-Done's old clutch in the link you attached. Plate is very very heavy cast. Yes, it only comes with a pilot bushing and not a bearing. But it's a 100% Sachs and 100% copy of the OE. I bought mine from ebay cause I'm not going to pay high prices for a vendor's "name". Also it's 13". I'll try to attach pics of the one I got on ebay.



Earl



Isn't it a thing of beauty? :D
 
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