Put on new brake pads, now it pulls to left. Why?

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Last week I took my 3500 to the dealer to have the brakes checked. I am going out west pulling a 14,000 lb. 5er in a few weeks. Don't want to be coming down a mountain and find I have no brakes. Told the mechanic that did the brakes this.

He told me I needed new shoes so we put them on. $200 plus dollars. When I picked up the truck it pulled to the left every time I stepped on the brakes. When I say it pulled to the left I mean if I took my hand off the wheel, doing 40 and stepped on the brakes, I'd ended up in the lane to my left before I stopped. It was not pulling to the left before I had the pads changed. I took the truck back to the dealer.

The mechanic said the truck was pulling to the left because the left calliper (sp) was sticking and needed to be replaced. He said I should replace left and right side at same time. I didn't have much choice so I agreed. New callipers were $300.

I pickup up the truck and the truck still pulled to the left exactly as it did before the callipers were replaced!

I know now I didn't have any problem with my callipers! The mechanic started replacing things thinking maybe this will fix the pull to the left.

I took the truck back again and was told maybe the rear brakes need some work.

I asked the mechanic what made him think the callipers were bad. He said he drove the truck around, put the truck on the lift, and the left caliper was sticking. Is this how you determine if a calliper is bad?

I will meet with the shop foreman on Monday. Since I am no mechanic thought maybe y'all could give me some advice on what the problem may be. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!

I have a '98 Dodge 12 valve 3500 4x4 with 86K.

 

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I'll bet that the mechcanic either didn't adjust the rear shoes or used the self adjusting in reverse method,which doesn't work.

 

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BC,

To elaborate on illflem's input... ... If the
left rear adjustment is just a little too tight, it will pull to the left under light braking. If, when going down the road with NO braking, it goes straight, then it's NOT a dragging caliper.
I think they made a mistake replacing the calipers. #ad

Now if the front left caliper was LEAKING it would have been a good call but not to cure a slight pull under braking.
Were the drums turned when the rear shoes were replaced? Maladjusted rear shoes is my guess..... at least from this distance. #ad
#ad


Mick2500

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2001 2500 ETH/DEE, QuadCab, 4X4, SB, LSD, 3. 54, SLT+, Sport, Intense Blue PC/Agate, Tow Package, Camper Package, 'DC' Bed Cover, Sliding rear window. Ordered 5/01/00... Cancelled 5/30/00... re-ordered 6/02/00... Cancelled again by DC 6/05/00
Gauges (EGT/Boost) and A-Pillar mount Here, 4" Exhaust, Here.

 

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Dodge brakes su**k. Most of them have some level of brake pull. The severity seem s to be a matter of your tolerance level. I have just learned to live with it. It is less frustrating than taking it to the dealer. Sometimes it pulls, sometimes not. Be sure to clean and lube the caliper pins. That seems to be one of the contributing factors.

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98. 5 2500 QC LB 4x4 5spd, white. BFG 285x75x16
Cummins 24v w/ TST PowerMAX w/EGT and Boost gauges on A-Pillar.
VanAaken CPC. K&N In the factory air box. Stock Injectors, Stock Exhaust (complete with rattling baffles in muffler).
SnugTop, JJ Stainless Running boards, Tow Hooks, Bushwacker Street Flares, and a Cup Smoothie.
60,000 miles (5/18/00)

 

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I agree with Sean, only (like always) I extend this to every American vehicle made. . Not to pick on GM exclusively, because they ALL do it... It amazes me to see a +300HP Trans Am, which is by no means a light & nimble car to begin with... Holding brakes which are no larger than that of a small four cylinder VW Jetta!!!... Well thats another story. . Anyway, first thing is that you should not be paying for products and services which do not remedy the problem. Secondly, I think you should check into the brake lines. If memory serves correctly, Some Rams had problems with collapsing brake lines. If its out of warranty, go for a set of SS aftermarket lines. The added cost will be WELL worth it in the long run. .

 

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Another possible cause of brake pull (on a 4x4) is the caster settings on the lower control arms. If these aren't set properly for caster and, especially, in relation to each other it will pull one way or the other under braking. This is because when the front suspension loads up from the braking, the two lower control arms can slightly "rotate" the front axle. If this "rotation" isn't the same on both sides, it'll send you off one direction or the other. This cannot be checked on an alignment machine. It has to be road tested.

I just wanted to share some new-found knowledge.

If it wasn't pulling before and they didn't touch your alignment, then that's probably not it for you.

 

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Sounds like calipar pins sticking to me. These are the parts the calipar slides on as the pads wear. They get dirty and the lubricant degrades and they stick, holding the afflicted calipar applied. Part of a full front brake job is to remove the pins, clean them and relubricate them with a silicone based grease (per Factory Service Manual) Ask to see what they were lubricated with when the pads were replaced. If they can't show you the "right stuff" or if they didn't do it (most don't) then I would think that they are responsible for the cost of your new calipars (which didn't fix the problem). #ad
The only hitch here is if the new calipars came with the pins already installed, then it is a rear brake problem. I would discount the colapsed line theory (nice catch DEEZAL MAN) #ad
only because they didn't pull before you had them "fixed". Another consideration here is that if the calipars were sticking, they should have been caught before you were given your truck back. In an extreme case (high temps, brake dragging) the calipars will get hot enough to boil the fluid and then NO BRAKES. #ad
Sounds like the mechanic is trying to cover his ass. #ad
I would consider telling them that you will only pay for parts and services that fix the problem not educating the mechanic. Sorry, as a former service writer in a very competent shop this really ticks me off. #ad
(But the smileys help)

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'94 3500 4x4, 198,000 miles, Auto w/shift kit,3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.

[This message has been edited by Extreme1 (edited 07-07-2000). ]

 

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My truck pulls and alway's has to some degree. I was flipping throught the FSM brakes chapter and found that our rear brakes receive different line pressure when loaded and unloaded. I've seen the device on the rear diff but thought it was for the antilock system.

If this device lowers line pressure to the rear brakes, would this amplify problems with the front brakes?

Has anyone noticed less brake pull when loaded?

I would expect that both front cylinders and both rear cylinders should receive equal line pressure; is there a tool to measure line pressure to determine if the proportioning valve is faulty?

I have learned to live with the problem but would like to find a solution.

243

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1999 Quad Cab 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
[*] 275hp Injectors, Wastegate Elbow, Boost Module by TXRam, Straight Pipe
[*] VDO Boost and Pyrometer on Autometer Gauge Pod
[*] 235/85/16 Dunlop Mud Rovers, RS9000's, Hella 500 Driving Lights Husky Liners
[*] Smittybilt Sure-Steps, Magellan 315 GPS mounted on shifter console

-- email address removed --

 

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Which line collapaces?? the metal one or the flex lne going to the calipers??


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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-Auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others, AMSOIL and Mobil Synthetics, TST 255HP and TransGO Shift kit .

 

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Thanks for the info guys. I am still not sure what the problem is though.

When I first took the 3500 in to have brakes checked I went out and talked to the mechanic. He had front and rear tires off on right side. He told me my front pads did need replaceing. He also told me my rears were o. k. I told him to replace the front pads.

I don't think he did anything to my rears except to examine right rear brake, and then put right rear tires back on. I'll ask about that to be sure.

Before I took truck in it ran straight and true, whether braking or not. I replaced my tires at 64,000. I now have 87,000 and tires look great! No wear spots! I rotate tires about every 7k. I think alignment is right on.

Kyle, appreciate the advice, but I agree, since no problem before they did the front brake pads, I think it must be something to do with the pads.

Extreme1, I agree, the problem should have been caught on the first test drive. That leads me to believe it wasn't test driven. When I picked up the truck the second time (after he replaced the callipers) the mechanic said it still pulled just a little to the left and he thought it may be the alignment. I was due to rotate the tires so that was acceptable... . until I drove away from the dealership and the truck pulled just as hard to the left as it did before. The mechanic lied to me, charge me $300 to replace something that wasn't broken, and is causing me to waste more time at the dealership!

I have a mechanic I go to for about everything. He was buisy so I took it to Dodge. BIG MISTAKE!

 

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BC,

I think you might have just given us the clue we needed. If the mechanic(?) DID pull the right rear drum off he probably loosened the adjuster on that brake assembly. If he neglected to re-adjust it properly when he was done, the right side would be just a little loose (see my previous note).

When it just pulls slightly to one side or the other, it's usually a REAR brake problem.
the pull is amplified with speed. AT say 25 MPH and under you should NOT be able to notice it. Above 25 MPH it will get progressively worse.

Still betting on a rear brake problem (induced by the mechanic(?)).

Mick2500

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2001 2500 ETH/DEE, QuadCab, 4X4, SB, LSD, 3. 54, SLT+, Sport, Intense Blue PC/Agate, Tow Package, Camper Package, 'DC' Bed Cover, Sliding rear window. Ordered 5/01/00... Cancelled 5/30/00... re-ordered 6/02/00... Cancelled again by DC 6/05/00
Gauges (EGT/Boost) and A-Pillar mount Here, 4" Exhaust, Here. UPDATE: Re-ordered 7/7/00... . finally a new VON!!

[This message has been edited by Mick2500 (edited 07-07-2000). ]

 

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This thread may be of interest to you. It is from the archives. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum11/HTML/000018.html

 

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Mick and Ron, thanks for the info.

My wife (the 3500 is her truck) said today that the brakes are no longer pulling the truck to the left. I have an appointment with the shop forman Monday morning.

I'll drive her truck tomorrow and test the hell out of it. I don't want to go to the dealership and have nothing wrong with the truck.

What gives? Do brakes just fix themselves?

 

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You may have lucked out and the self adjusters for your rears actually worked. Don't depend on it happening agin,learn how to adjust your shoes(there are many archives on it)and do it on a regular basis,it's easy.

 

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Brake Mechanic??????? No Kiss,----No Vaseline!!

 

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I do not currently own a Dodge ( I am waiting for them to come off restriction, or to get finished cleaning the bathrooms in the factory, or whatever other story they can come up with) but I have done several brake jobs on Dodges. The absolute first thing I would do is rotate the tires left to right and drive the truck (I would not leave them like this b/c unknown to the general driving public rotating a tire side to side will causing it to sling a bead, always rotate front to back). If the problem persists, have the rotors turned. You should always have the rotors turned when replacing pads. I always take a dial caliper after they have been turned to insure that they are the same thickness. Dodge supposedly has self adjusters, but I like to be sure. One easy way to tell if a caliper is stuck is to remove the wheel, remove the two caliper bolts and pads, and use a C-clamp to force the caliper piston back in. If it moves with light to moderate force, the caliper is fine, if it is hard or impossible to move, go buy a new caliper. Again, I would change these in pairs and I would buy Mopar. There are a lot of parts you can go aftermarket on, but in MY braking system, I want the best. (e. g. AutoZone Lifetime pads $13. 99/set will RUIN a $150. 00 rotor). Checking the rear brakes is a good idea, see if you can adjust them manually. I have seen the cog slip to the point where it will not hold the brakes in adjustment. Other culprits (these are rare) are collapsed brake lines, proportioning valve( a pair of wires coming off of your master cylinder), check all bleeder valves. Hope this helps, Nate

 

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O. K. , update time. I test drove the 3500 yesterday knowing that my wife was crazy when she said it no longer pulled to the left. Guess what? It no longer pulls to the left. Don't know why the problem went away... I'm scared of any problem (mechanical) that just "goes away"!

I put off going to the dealer today. Had lots of tractor work that needed to get done. I'll go by the dealership in the morning ask them why the problem went away.

Again fellas, thanks for the help.

 

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BC,

Your wife MAY be crazy, (mine is) #ad
but I do believe the right rear was so loose that the auto adjuster did it's job. As soon as you told us they pulled ONLY the RR drum to check the rears, I would have bet money it was a loose set of RR shoes.
If you roll forward, stop, roll backward, stop, repeat..... this will adjust your rear drums IF all the self-adjusting hardware is working perfectly. I agree with illflem, get in the habit of checking the rear brakes for proper adjustment on a regular basis... . each oil change is a good interval.

Glad your pull is gone... now go educate the mechanic(?).

Mick2500

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2001 2500 ETH/DEE, QuadCab, 4X4, SB, LSD, 3. 54, SLT+, Sport, Intense Blue PC/Agate, Tow Package, Camper Package, 'DC' Bed Cover, Sliding rear window. Ordered 5/01/00... Cancelled 5/30/00... re-ordered 6/02/00... Cancelled again by DC 6/05/00
Gauges (EGT/Boost) and A-Pillar mount Here, 4" Exhaust, Here.
UPDATE!! Re-ordered 7/7/00..... Finally a new VON

 

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My 99' 4x4 had an intermittant problem with a hard left pull when braking, starting about 500 miles. Of course when ever I took it back, (Just a couple of times, usually for other things) the problem could not be duplicated when I drove it in. I mentioned it, but hard to trouble shoot when it works fine.

Well about 19k miles it was doing it all the time. Took it back and the dealer replaced both calipers, adjusted the rear brakes. (I had them adjusted by my own break mechanic at 6k and 15k).

They reused the same pads, did not turn the rotors. Now with 23k the brakes still work fine.

Seems the factory had a bad run on calipers in late 98 / early 99 from what I'm reading.

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99' Quad Cab, 4x4, Auto, 3. 55, All options except fog lights and leather, Glasstite topper, Chrome Nerf Bars, VA CPC, DiPricol EGT & Boost Gauges Pillar Mount

 

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well i'm in the middle of the same battle with my dealer- my 99 2x4 does the same #ad
took it to the dealer and had a mechanic ride with me--(about another problem :mad #ad
and he stated they have a tsb and a 3 hour class on how to find and fix the problem--funny what they will tell you when your driving them around #ad

Break problems so far 15,000 blown left front brake caliper,(replaced caliper) 27,000 break job, 27,350 brake fade out (front calipers dragging, calipers replaced) 27,500 brake pulling- in shop- maybe they'll get it right #ad