Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) putting #6 plate on EGR equiped?

[sfelts]

I have noticed that TST says not to put a fule plate on EGR equipped 1996 and later California Diesels. witch is what I have. what probs will I run in to or is this a statment to cover there *****? I plan on adding a puls manifold and turbo next year that will elmante the EGR. Shuld I wait till thin to put the plate in?

 

[Erik.Miller]

I have a 97 Calif. truck and have done some research on the EGR set-up. Here is a thread that may help you out.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64979



I have a Calif. truck, but don't live in Calif. I am planning on removing my egr system and replacing my intake with a non-egr intake and putting a plate on the exhaust manifold.



Hope this helps,

Erik

 

[SEmerson]

I have a 97 ca egr truck. I run a #6 with a fed horn. All egr stuff removed. The ca horn is very restrictive.

 

[EBansberg]

You probably don't have to wait to install it. You have the gauges, all you would have to do is watch them. If you slid it back a little it would probably be good until the other stuff comes off. I would say, block off the exhaust hole for now and put on a non-cal/non-egr intake manifold. Since we all seem to be 97s. Is everyone ignoring their check engine light/took it out/... ... ... . ?

 

[sfelts]

Since we all seem to be 97s. Is everyone ignoring their check engine light/took it out/... ... ... . ?

I put a oil change sticker over it

Thanks for the advise guys.

 

[Joe G.]

I don't have an EGR valve truck. However, I have read that you can kill the CEL by jumping two of the contacts in the connector on the EGR. You might want to experiment with that and see if it works.



One thing to watch for if you have an EGR is that it will soot up the AFC connection to the turbo. When this happens the truck will run just fine, but you will be worried about kids passing you on bicycles. That happened to a friend of mine who had a '97.

 

[jtwcummins]

I removed the EGR when I went to ats manifold and the twin ram intake. The intake was so full of soot the AFC port was plugged and had to vac out soot. The check engine lite came on and the code shown was EGR solenoid failure. Used a relay and some resistors to fool ecm. The code is set when the IAT doesn't show at least a 10* rise in temp when the solenoid picks up. Used a pc scanner to get values of resistance needed.



The egr reduces the hp to 160 and torque to 420 on equipped engines. I used a 2" speed bit to hollow out the cat and had a straight thru pipe stuffed through it.

Before removing the egr I blocked the vac line to it to disable and got very heavy black smoke when first taking off, went away when the power pack and ats manifold were installed.

 

[EBansberg]

do you have a "wiring schematic" on that setup? I knew what caused the whole deal but didn't really have the huevos to go messing around with things. I was going to attempt a computer switch with a same year 49 state auto but never found one I could afford. Didn't think the dealer would want to reflash it for that either.

 

[gwizpro]

I have been running a TST #6 plate for over 3 years on a CA EGR Diesel. Did not do anything but install it and enjoyed the added power. Not a single problem. When you do the install just make believe it is not a CA truck. The EGR on this truck can be removed with no ill effects.

 

[jtwcummins]

It is fairly simple to put together, what's needed to keep that lite off.

1. Get a 12v relay from Radio Shack, they have a HD one.

It has to have Normally open and closed contacts, DPST.

2. Remove the EGR solenoid and mount the relay in it's place.

3. Use the 2 wires to the solenoid and connect to the relay coil, no polarity concerns. This give 12v to the coil and picks up the relay when the EGR solenoid is suppose to energize.

4. Remove connector to IAT and turn on ign. Find and mark the one showing 5v to grd.

5. Run a wire from the 5v feed to one side of both sets , NO/NC, of relay contacts.

6. On the output side of the normally closed contacts connect about 12-13K ohms of resistance. Leave the other end of resistors open for now.

7. On the output side of the normally open contacts connect about 7-9k ohms.

8. Connect the loose ends of the resistors together and add a wire to the other IAT wire, this is the returned signal side to ECM.



This should tell the ECM the IAT is about 65-70* when the relay isn't energized and about 85* when it is energized. You might have to add resistance to the normally closed side or reduce it the the NO side. The lower the R the higher the temp fed to ECM. Make sure the ign is off before doing any hookups.



Now you can mount the EGR solenoid near the front axle if a 4x4 and run the front axle vac thru the solenoid. Setup a switch, 12v, and the front axle can be disabled when in 4x4 low for backing trailers, etc.

 

[EBansberg]

This is going to be a stupid ? but where is the egr solenoid? Does it look like a starter solenoid?

 

[jtwcummins]

left front of the engine follow vac line from egr valve, it's on the intake manifold close to valve covers. Mounted on a bracket

 

[EBansberg]

I know what you're talking about. Only when I put the new airhorn on I had to move it but I know now. thanks

 

[EBansberg]

for the relay, did you use an auto style 30A or a smaller one? Sorry so many questions.

 

[jtwcummins]

Used a smaller one because I had it already. My final install will use the auto type 30a since it will hold up better under the hood

 

[EBansberg]

thanks again, I've got one and going to try it all out soon. I'm tryin to figure out the best way to wire in the relays and also try not to cut the stock wiring connector that goes to the solenoid. I've got some ideas but always ok with some of your opinions and choices.

 

[EBansberg]

Doesn't the grid heater work off of the IAT? From the way I understood it, you won't use it anymore thus no more heater. I was thinking of using the IAT for the NC side and putting a lighter resistor on the NO side so that when it energized it would see a higher temp than the IAT sensor would be at. I'm just trying to figure out the right resistance for that side.

 

[jtwcummins]

Put a scanner on mine and range is 71* relay off and 84* relay on. The grid heaters still work okay but don't cycle as much as w/o mod. Since cold here is very seldom below 35* I just let it idle for a minute or 2 when 'cold'. If you get to radical you will get the MIL set with a code for temp out of range since there is an air temp sensor and ECT to deal with in the loop.

 

[EBansberg]

What does the grid heater cycle take it's reading off of? I thought you bypassed the IAT completely and thus they shouldn't cycle at all if they read the resistances straight off of the relay with resistors.

 

[jtwcummins]

It's not bypassed, it is reading IAT based on resistors used