Questions for any barn builders.

[QRTRHRS]

My wife took retirement in December along with a lump sum severence package. She wants to put up a new boarding barn. We are looking at 40 x 120 plus an overhang on the south side maybe now or later.



I want to start out with a block or concrete foundation up to about five feet above grade because;

a. The wall is the stall, at least for the back side, easy to clean and rodent proof.

b. The ground is sloped and would require extensive filling to make level then I would have a bank to deal with for simple pole construction.



Is it feasible to use pole construction for the rest of the 12 foot overall side wall? How would the posts be tied to the wall, with beam pockets in the foundation or some prefab metal anchor?



For roof construction, I want to go with posts tied together with collars. I will have 12 foot deep stalls and a 16 foot wide center aisle. The center will have 14 foot of open head space with a loft to come later. Trusses collect to much dirt and cobwebs and I need the posts to tie the stall corners together anyway. The roof and siding will be metal.



I am off to the PA Farm Show next week to speak with some builders. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome.

 

[pathaymond]

There are alot of ways to accomplish your objective. while I am not a barn builder I have been building for some 30 years now. I would firstly say Do not use block. Concrete cast in place walls are the only way to fly done right they are permanent and very strong. Slopes I deal with some nasty slopes for my houses we use sub walls and then back fill to create a flat spot for the home most important is always you need weep holes in sub walls and Dead men in any long pour no matter how tall it is any wall over 40 feet gets a dead man every 16 feet or so. and then I say never never apply any kind of LOAD to fill dirt once the foundation is in place and piers as needed you are good to go Up . all posts in the perimeter or field must be on virgin ground if this requires concrete piers and back fill around them so be it. Simpson Makes alot of really versatile post bases and anchors for many applications they have a huge variety that most lumber depots do not have in stock get a catalog and you will see alot of cool fasteners that would likly help your application. Sounds like a fun project. If I can help let me know. Patrick

 

[daveshoe]

One suggestion on the roof interior. If you use insulation under the roof panels, make it bird proof like this. What ever rafter or truss system used with metal roof will have purlins [2x4] nailed at 90 degrees across the rafters or trusses. there is about a 2 foot space between the purlins. this creates a 2inch by 2 foot spot for a sparrow to sit. these little buggers love to peck holes in the insulation to build nests or escape routes in .

During construction you need to cut 2x2 pieces to plug these spaces. The sparrows then have no foothold to do the above described damage.

I would have to see a plan or sketch of the building to give suggestions or answer questions on cost effectiveness.

We recently built a semi formless wall for a 50x 100 concrete wall at great savings to the customer . The savings on form material was unbeliveable. Too much to go into here, so message me with questions.

Have fun

Daveshoe

 

[QRTRHRS]

pathaymond,



I am pretty sure this one will be poured concrete. Near as I can figure with snow on the ground, ground level for my north side will be about two foot below existing grade plus I will put about a foot more of fill in to make a swale. The south side will need to be filled about two feet. We go about four feet deep for frost so my north wall will be nine feet and the south eleven, maybe twelve.



I think I have the Simpson site bookmarked. I know regular pole construction resists loading due to the post being anchored by soil. I don't see the same with metal ties unless more bracing is added.



Daveshoe,



Thanks for reminding me about the sparrows. I already provide year round shelter for a bunch of them. I am thinking of 1/2" Thermax on the purlins to slightly deaden the sound of heavy rain and to route moisture forming on the inner metal surface off towards the eaves.



Pretty basic layout. 40x120x12 side walls. Picture two wide "U's" for the concrete. 12x12 stalls with a 16 center aisle. The various support rooms will be 12x whatever. The posts supporting the roof will be 12 on center too for building stalls off of. Pretty steep roof for 14 foot high two piece sliding doors. Tall enough to drive a 13'6" through.



Wish it was for vehicles and not nags.

 

[pathaymond]

yes more bracing would be required with the ties. A good wall contractor can help you alot with your needs Planning ahead will save you dollars for sure. If you want you can Pm me for my email address I would not mind reviewing your plans or thoughts and trying to help you make the Project efficient and cost effective. Look forward to your Progress Patrick

 

[QRTRHRS]

Thanks for the offer. Right now the plans are still a bunch of rough sketches. I am hoping to touch base with someone who has actually done pole walls with a solid base to see if it is even feasible or learn of a better way. After I speak with some builders, I will PM you.