Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Quick clutch pedal clip question...

[gradylaw]

I am trying to replace the master cylinder for the clutch and it looks fairly straight-forward even though I'm no expert.

What's giving me the grief is the little clip that holds the pin to the actuation rod to the pedal. By feel (can't get a look at it), it seems like it should just slide off but no such luck.

Anyone know the trick to getting it off?

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Mishkaya]

I am trying to replace the master cylinder for the clutch and it looks fairly straight-forward even though I'm no expert.

What's giving me the grief is the little clip that holds the pin to the actuation rod to the pedal. By feel (can't get a look at it), it seems like it should just slide off but no such luck.

Anyone know the trick to getting it off?

Thanks in advance for any help!

It's got something of a retainer on the back side. If you use a flat screwdriver to hold the retainer out, it will slip right off for you. Don't loose it in the gravel like I did or the dealer will get you good for a replacement...

 

[gradylaw]

Thanks again! I'll give it a try.

 

[gradylaw]

OK, got everything installed, thought I had bled it all right but I guess not. Pedal moves about 2 inches before any resistance. Not enough to disengage the clutch. Tried to get the air out every way but still not good. I am stumped. A bleeder screw sure would help.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bob Cochran]

I replace my clutch hydraulics with SBC and they included another clip. I sent them an email because since they sent another I just destroyed the old one taking it out. Once you see it is easy to remove and install. One be thank you to them I have a feeling a lot have been destroyed or lost in removal.

 

[Mishkaya]

OK, got everything installed, thought I had bled it all right but I guess not. Pedal moves about 2 inches before any resistance. Not enough to disengage the clutch. Tried to get the air out every way but still not good. I am stumped. A bleeder screw sure would help.

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

I have never done it myself as I simply replaced the hydraulics with a SB unit as well. This web page may be of some help however:

Hydraulic Clutch

Good luck.

 

[GCroyle]

Bleeder Screw, Not Required

Gradylaw,



Use the slave cylinder as a pump, no bleed screw needed.



Leave it hooked to the line, but remove it from the transmission. Let it point down, use the push rod and compress the S/C completely, let it slowly extend, repeat several times. This flushes air out and up, replaced with DOT 3. Check for air traps in the line, make sure to take them out of play, give the bubbles a path out. Don't worry about the straps, they are broken anyway if it is a used S/C. If this doesn't work, then plan B is to remove the entire system and go to the bench.



Bench setup and bleeding.

Orientation is very important, look at it from the side and visualize an air bubble, orient it to let it flow up and out. You can do the S/C pump process again. To check your work, block the slave cylinder piston, I use a steering wheel or harmonic damper puller directly against the piston. Push on the M/C pushrod, should go ROCK HARD with 1/8"-3/16" piston rod travel. With the S/C blocked, you can cycle the M/C pushrod 1/4"-3/8" and it will burp air bubbles out.



You can do it.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

It's got something of a retainer on the back side. If you use a flat screwdriver to hold the retainer out, it will slip right off for you. Don't loose it in the gravel like I did or the dealer will get you good for a replacement...

I bought the upgraded one from SB but side note to bad they dont have a simple drilled hole in it for a cotter pin style. I know alot of people have destroyed these taking them off. I know after I replaced mine I guess I didnt have the tension clip on tight enough and it came off driving. made it real fun to pull over on the freeway. #@$%!

 

[gradylaw]

Finally got 'er done and the clutch still wouldn't disengage completely. Apparently it was the clutch too. I now have joined the South Bend rattle club. Works great and it seems to be quieting down with use. Just wanted to say thanks for the excellent advice. This forum is a wealth of information thanks to you guys.
Cheers