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Buffalo posted this a while back:

"If you look under the turbo, you will find an oil drain tube. It connects to a fitting in the block. Look on the same side of the block & you will find what looks like a freeze plug. That can be pooped out and a fitting, from Cummins, can be installed for an oil bypass drain.



The fitting will have to be modified with a fitting that the drain hose from the bypass can be connected to.



There is a good thread, by one of our members, that created this fitting. He had great pictures & descriptions of how to do this. Do a search. It's worth it.

You may want to check on (bob is the oil guy.com) (bypass filter forum) for more information. "



Joe F. (Buffalo)





I have done the search, but still cannot find the thread about the fitting that was created. Does anyone have a link to this thread? :confused: All I have found is a part number from Cummins for the plug.

Also, in another old post, Robertyoke said "there is a plug in the second hole toward the front of the engine, kinda behind the oil filter. pull the plug and get a second drain fitting from cummins. (or use 3/4 copper pipe it fits good)

-robert"





Is there any particular method that should be used to pull the plug to help prevent foreign particles from falling directly into the pan??



If I can get it out, I think I'll be trying to use some 3/4" copper pipe in the hole (as someone mentioned) with excess JB weld to try to prevent leaks, unless I can find the thread about the plug mentioned above or make me another part that presses in correctly.






Everytime I find a good thread that I think will lead me to the answer, someone jumps in and recommends drilling and tapping the valve cover. Not only would I not want to do this for aesthetics, but my oil system (Puradyn for a full size rig) is not pressurized.
 
A better alternative is to use a block fitting for a flexible dipstick for this engine. I haven't looked at the block fitting used on the stock dipstick, but it may work. There are dozens of flexible dipstick options available for the ISB/QSB engine from which the block fitting can be removed and used for an oil return. The dipstick block fitting presses (carefully hammered) into one of the four dipstick holes in the block (two on each side). The block fitting is barbed, so the oil drain hose can be pushed on and clamped for security. The plug that is in the unused dipstick holes is typically a "hat" type. A chisel under the "brim" of the hat and a small hammer is all that's required to remove the plug. If the freeze plug style plug is in the dipstick hole, a self tapping screw with grease in the hole to collect the shavings is typically used, along with a slide hammer, to remove the plug.



If I have a chance, I'll see if I can come up with a part number of an inexpensive flexible dipstick tube that can be purchased from Cummins. For reference, a picture of a typical block fitting is attached.
 
Found the following part numbers after an extensive search of old threads:



Turbo Drain Tube Nipple:

Part #3931827



Turbo Drain Tube Nipple O-ring:

Part #3931824



Still searching to see if anyone has any alternative ideas that might work and not require me to wait on a special part... .



Thanks for the response so far, will check around!
 
The PN 3931827 will work, but keep in mind that it is just a slip fit with the block. You will need to support the hose so that the fitting does not come out of the block and dump oil all over the road!
 
THANKS for pointing this out. I was not aware that it was just a slip fit.



At this point, when faced with all the options, I'm leaning towards using a 3/4" piece of copper pipe pressed/hammered in with JB Weld smeared all around it (hey, I don't plan on ever removing this thing... ).



Also, I figured (more liked hoped) that if for some reason the pipe ever were to dislodge/become loose and start leaking oil, I would be able to catch the leak before serious damage would occur--it looks like the oil would blow straight back onto the downpipe (creating a lot of smoke that would get someone's attention, I hope).



This all sounds a bit sketchy to me... . but I'm not sure I have any other options since I am using a gravity feed bypass system. Guess I'll just have to ensure the fit is good and there is enough support for the hose.



The only other alternative that I see, is to attempt to use a 1/2" pipe tap to tap the 3/4" diameter hole, then thread a brass fitting into it. Of course, this would require me to drain all of the oil from the pan, tap the hole with grease on the tap, flush the pan with kerosene or fresh oil ($$), then refill with oil and check for leaks.



Anyone have any other suggestions??:confused:
 
you could use the oil drain plug as a drain fitting. . but under non pressure return, it may not work great. you would need a metric > JIC fitting to do that. i believe the oil drain plug is M18x1. 5
 
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