Rail cap question

[OT-OF-HERE!!]

I haven't been following the latest on rail caps lately. I'm looking for the best value that works. Not looking to spend $100 for a cap when I know some guys have found a better option. Need a little help here. Tks.

 

[Cory]

I would watch out for the whole plugging off the return line with a bolt idea. I know NGM has a very reliable setup that will actually bypass the fuel should something go wrong, instead of blowing a hole in something. Its around $100 somewhere in there.

 

[RobertP]

I haven't been following the latest on rail caps lately. I'm looking for the best value that works. Not looking to spend $100 for a cap when I know some guys have found a better option. Need a little help here. Tks.

if you dont want to spend money on a item that was designed to work with the psi this CR is designed to produce then go to a hardware store and stick a bolt in it. when that bolt or whatever goes through the hood of your truck i dont want to see a new thread labeled" relief valve cap goes though hood" i i will say, one of two things : you should have bought the right parts, or a modded relief valve. i hope you know that this is only to inform you of the impending problems, not to flame.

 

[OT-OF-HERE!!]

Hmmmmm

if you dont want to spend money on a item that was designed to work with the psi this CR is designed to produce then go to a hardware store and stick a bolt in it. when that bolt or whatever goes through the hood of your truck i dont want to see a new thread labeled" relief valve cap goes though hood" i i will say, one of two things : you should have bought the right parts, or a modded relief valve. i hope you know that this is only to inform you of the impending problems, not to flame.

I didn't realize this was your forum. I should have known by some of the other "over the top" comments of yours I've read over time.



Perhaps you can find something else to do while some other members give constructive input. I'm sure IMills would appreciate one of your worthless attacks,. . I haven't seen one today and the day is almost over.



Moving on.

 

[RobertP]

I didn't realize this was your forum. I should have known by some of the other "over the top" comments of yours I've read over time.



Perhaps you can find something else to do while some other members give constructive input. I'm sure IMills would appreciate one of your worthless attacks,. . I haven't seen one today and the day is almost over.



Moving on.

sorry dude, im not over the top, im just stateing what MAY happen to your truck, being that NGM was in the development of the rail cap, and modded valve, we should know what your truck is capable of doing. just remember you get what you pay for.

 

[oneshotkyle]

with that said, just put a bolt in it and let us all know the results. .

 

[OT-OF-HERE!!]

rail cap

with that said, just put a bolt in it and let us all know the results. .

Yep,... judge88 did something like that and was just telling me about it on the DTR if you're interested. A while back someone told about using a VW wheel stud (super hard steel) so it shouldn't take any wear from the pressure. I'd like to know how that is working out.



This whole exercise is because I want to know if the dual feed is doing anything for me or not. Here's my confusion,... . I've got two feeds of fuel at 54psi hitting my rail,... one from the bottom and one from the top and at either end of the rail! To me (and this may be too simplified) it would appear like two tidal waves of exactly like power & pressure wacking one another and then what does that do inside the rail,... if anything. I would think it does do something but I'm not sure and so I want a reasonable way to test this on the dyno and NO I don't want to just put my sensor back in as I also want to see if a cap does in fact provide MORE pressure, i. e. about 2kpsi as has been reported here by one of our beloved brethern. I just think someone needs to test these things and know for sure it works and if so how well. For instance let's say my lvl 2 Cp3 does 60hp increase (just an example) and with the dual feed on does it do 80hp or does it now do 45hp? I think I want to know this. Initally I just want info on capping the rail but now I think more is at issue really so why not lay it out because maybe someone has done what I intend to do. We'll see won't we.

 

[Summit]

i put in a drain plug bolt that bought at the hardware store for a couple bucks back in july and dont have a "dent in my hood" or cracked inj. bodys,,,yet. rail pressure @ past 28k cause thats as high as it reads.

 

[Luken]

I'm pretty sure Brown's Diesel did the bolt trick... I may be wrong tho.



I know he has posted about it before. But what the heck would he know It's not like he has a powerful truck or anything... :-laf

 

[OT-OF-HERE!!]

Hmmmmm!

i put in a drain plug bolt that bought at the hardware store for a couple bucks back in july and dont have a "dent in my hood" or cracked inj. bodys,,,yet. rail pressure @ past 28k cause thats as high as it reads.

In Missouri we call that Redneck ingenuity :-laf



Question: Have you ever pulled it out to see if there is wear to the drain bolt and it is a drain bolt right,. . not just some bolt with the right threads?

 

[RMalone]

Good god you guys that damn bolt isn't holding any more pressure than a spark plug would in a gasser and they aren't even solid. I would definately use a high quality bolt and in that size "14mmx20mm fine threads" you would have a hard time finding a "cheap" bolt (I had a pain in the butt finding a good one).



NGM most of your posts are informative, but show us a post where someone actually shot a solid bolt through their hood via the rail. Sounds like scare tactics, perhaps it wasn't meant like that, but thats how it sounded. I do agree that completely capping the relief valve and running aggressive pressure is asking for trouble I just think the injectors are where the problems will come.



I have used a bolt on a few occasions to see if the relief valve was leaking, it wasn't. I would rather not run so much pressure that a functional stock valve would be opening anyway, but I would have been pretty upset to have spent $100 and not fixed my rail pressure problem.



If you think your losing rail pressure to a bad valve buy the bolt (use a banjo washer) and see if that is really where the problem is located. If it is, then go get a system with some safeguards.

 

[TCDiesel]

OT-OF-Here , I am going on a snowmobile trip out west for three weeks On the Sixteenth, after that I should have some cores,Try it and if you like it, Keep it ,at the charge we discuss,if not send it back. If any one knows were I can find C-Rails please contact us at -- email address removed -- or call 1-800-680-4697 ask for Todd.

 

[JHardwick]

The bolt in the relief valve isn't holding anymore pressure than the relieve valve body itself. The relief valve body was made to hold that kind of pressure.



There won't be any wear on the bolt, to have wear, you need flow.

 

[Bob4x4]

OT-OF-Here , I am going on a snowmobile trip out west for three weeks On the Sixteenth, after that I should have some cores,Try it and if you like it, Keep it ,at the charge we discuss,if not send it back. If any one knows were I can find C-Rails please contact us at -- email address removed -- or call 1-800-680-4697 ask for Todd.

Are we talking bored rails here?



Bob

 

[jwilliams3]

I just blocked mine off using a stack of copper banjo washers.

Works great and has not leaked a drop.....



Of course I dont have the fastest CR truck or highest fake dyno number so you might take what I say with a grain of salt... . :-laf

 

[TCDiesel]

Are we talking bored rails here?



Bob

Yep,thats why I need cores/used,New just adds to the cost. Its about 50% more holding capacity and 40% travel.

 

[RobertP]

i personally have not see any hoods dented or whatever, but the guys in canada and @II have seen a good bit of problems, some with low quality bolts, some putting dimes under the valve. ect. ect. accually the first set of rail caps had to be redesigned, the standard steel alloy we were using was streching the threads caused by the pressure, so we had to cryogenically treat them, that fixed the problem. the point of this is to inform you guys of the capability of our CR system, it can produce psi higher than 35,000 psi and the average bolt is not made for that, and the bolt does not stop flow from going into the valve, our cap eliminates the valve alltogether, under the bolt there is another bolt that holds the spring and all in place, hi psi will force the valve open and presureized fuel will now enter the blocked end of the bolt, once again bolts are made with tensile strenght in mind, not what we are asking it to do, 30,000 will slowly errod the metal off of the bolt end, definatly galvinazed. 23k may not but higher psi testing proves it does do it at higher psi, its only important because this is now sealed and the debris cannot go back into the tank were it can be filtered once could. it goes bake into the fuel system at some rate. just a word of caution guys thats it. no flaming needed. thanks

 

[Bob4x4]

Yep,thats why I need cores/used,New just adds to the cost. Its about 50% more holding capacity and 40% travel.

Do you have any before and after data? Is there any specific hp # where it becomes more important?



Bob

 

[JHardwick]

I just blocked mine off using a stack of copper banjo washers.

Works great and has not leaked a drop.....

That would work too, never thought of that. I did think of tapping the inside of the banjo bolt and screwing a bolt inside of it, but I just replaced it with a solid bolt.

 

[jokerzwild]

I tapped the stock bolt an put a 1/8 pipe plug from hardware store in like reb brown posted several months back. The trucks got mp8 an bddl crazzy larry amoung other mods so I know pressure has been high for 20k since plugged an no problems.