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(real) Hot Injectors?

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90 D250 Ctd....wiw?

3rd Gen Oil Filter

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Greenleaf said:
What is that refering to? In the manual it is listed as the 190 HP injector for CPL # 940.



I have not yet located the 432-133-899. I'm looking.



my pump guy and i researched this number and found no matches, i think dpp found a number that gave them the results they lookd for, then changed the part number slightly so we couldn't just get them ourselves.



i did do a search and found some 210 bosch part numbers that are available supposedly for ve applications. doing some research now to see the viability of these numbers. keep you posted.
 
The emissions regulations play a big part in why the OEM (Dodge) and the pump and injector shops will not tell you about the interchangeability of these various components. . . . this engine was certified with a certain CPL to meet the EPA and DOT regs in place at the time. This doesn't mean we can't do better it just means that Dodge put certain components into the vehicle and then certified same; they did not certify the vehicle with a multiple engine and rating options. Think of it this way - the Chevy 350 CI engine can be 'dressed up' or 'dressed down' depending upon application. From a pump shop perspective if it increases the bottom line for these shops by keeping the end user in the dark about various cheaper options . . . so much the better.



We are lucky that this ISB engine has been used in so many different applications - gives us lots of options.
 
I see a lot of comments about the POD's putting out more fuel than a set of 370's and I have to go -huh?? I had a set of PODs for awhile and took em out because they didn't do much beter than the 185's. I now have a set of "modified" 370's that I borrowed from a friend to see if that was the problem I was having with low power. I realize the set I'm runnng are not a standard 370 tip so maybe I'm wrong here. I have not had a dyno yet to see what the difference is but I will say the POD's don't come close to putting out the power these 370's do. These things are honed out "several times" and really make the truck pull hard. I always carry a gallon of water in the back along side the tool box and the bottle would slide back a little when getting on it with the POD's. Now the bottle gets slammed into the tailgate when I launch!



Need to get a dyno run set up soon cause I also have a different set of injectors to try as well. Then I'll have a set made to do what I want it to do.
 
I think one reason that the POD injectors put out more fuel is that the pop pressure is higher. They are at 265 bar (3843 psi) and the stock injectors are 245 bar (3553 psi). What is the standard for the 1st gen body with marine 370 tips 245 or 265?



Jim
 
I'm guessing those 370's your running are highly modified. 680 hp is close to the top for 370's in a p-pump truck let alone in a less pop presure pump. Stock ones might be close to pod's but I have heard a few differnt times that 370's are less. Any one know the holes and size of holes for both?
 
I believe old Smoky honed out his PODs a few years back.



As for PODs flowing mroe than 370s via pop pressure- it wont work that way. Higher pop pressure will actually decrease fuel flow, as they will be open a few milliseconds less than they otherwise would with a lower pressure.



DP
 
CSchafer said:
I'm guessing those 370's your running are highly modified. 680 hp is close to the top for 370's in a p-pump truck let alone in a less pop presure pump.





Ive seen 767hp on a set of out of the box 370's.

Whats the chances of a POD being a 370 nozzle fit for a 1st gen inj. body.

I think there . 009 holes on 370's
 
and then there was Christmas...



where did you all disappear to?



this is good stuff



thanks in advance for keeping it coming



or did those robot spiders put an end to all envolved with this thread???
 
Don Tanklage said:
or did those robot spiders put an end to all envolved with this thread???



Dude, you're not supposed to DRINK the Power Service! :eek: :-laf



You're supposed to wash with it! :D
 
This is the only shop I have worked in that does not own a nozzle tester . :{ I have to send them out for adjustments after I reassemble the nozzles. I suppose I could reassemble and see if the operate in the engine, but I'd much rather know what pressure they are popping off at.



I think I'll build my own from pieces I have here and simply order the tips to install into whatever body I choose to use. Just gotta get this school to see why it's important for the better good of mankind and purchase a nozzle tester.



GL
 
Greenleaf said:
This is the only shop I have worked in that does not own a nozzle tester . :{ I have to send them out for adjustments after I reassemble the nozzles. I suppose I could reassemble and see if the operate in the engine, but I'd much rather know what pressure they are popping off at.



I think I'll build my own from pieces I have here and simply order the tips to install into whatever body I choose to use. Just gotta get this school to see why it's important for the better good of mankind and purchase a nozzle tester.



GL



You can build one in an hour using a cheap bottle jack or a grease gun. I would spend a little on a gauge that holds the last pressure read though. I'll find a link later and post.
 
I can't believe that you clean/ rebuild nozzles and don't have a tester. Cheapskates!

Oh, I like the new sig! :D
 
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