2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear brake smoking hot

[BT]

When I parked my truck after driving about 30 miles to a superbowl party my driver’s side rear brake was smoking (2001, disc rears and drum parking brake). I checked the other side and it was fine, no abnormal heat. My first thought was I left the parking brake on but when I parked the truck and pushed the brake on it felt normal and if it had been left on, I would have felt it partly depressed. Plus I constantly look at my gauges and couldn’t have missed the parking brake light. When I stopped for fuel before driving to the party, I forgot to take the brake off and backed up a few feet to reach the pump. I’m wondering if this may have locked the brake open somehow and when I did release the brake, it didn’t spring back away from the drum.



Has anyone had a problem with the parking brake “sticking” or staying on after the brake is released? Maybe it was the disc brake that was locked up?





The wheel was really hot to the touch. I’m wondering if this could have damaged the tire at the rim/bead. Also concerned that the wheel bearing grease could have cooked, or if there is an axle seal or brake parts that could have been damaged by the heat. Any thoughts or similar experiences?

 

[JLandry]

I this happen to my truck once. It was caused by slightly bent caliper mounting bolts...



Due the bent bolts, as the pads wore down the floating caliper moved closer to rotor until one day it became jammed. The brakes pads couldn't retract away from the rotor anymore and the pads dragged causing severe overheating on that rotor, caliper, and pads.



In this case the bent caliper mounting bolts were caused by my accidentally draping part of cable chain around the caliper when installing them for winter driving. When I moved the truck forward after the installation, the cable chain snapped. No damage was apparent when I made a brief inspection under the truck at the time (in a snow storm on the side of the road I might add). I did notice a rub mark on the caliper, so that's how I knew what caused the cable chain to snap.



It wasn't until a whole year later that the caliper became jammed.



The caliper and brake pads were completely cooked. I did a brake job on the rear... replaced the calipers with remanufactured units, new rotors, new pads, flushed brake fluid, etc.



John L.

 

[HHhuntitall]

IT's actually pretty common for cylinders in the brake calipers to stick and not release fully. Then, under heat, everything expands, compounding the problem. Not saying it's your emergency brake, but I don't see how it could have stuck, if it fully released and the light wasn't on when it's been working correctly. Check the cables and make sure they are fully retracted on the arms they attach to at the backing plates..... If they are, I'd wager it's the disc brake caliper. Easily replaced, new rotor, or turn that one, if it's not blue and heavily cracked, bleed off, and you're good to go. As for the bearing lube, it's possible if it got hot enough to damage the bearings and scorch the oil in the hub. You'll have to pull the axle shafts and look at the bearings and lube to see for certain. Your tire and wheel should be fine. Good luck!!



And an afterthought... . it could be a bad bearing in the hub instead of brakes... . just a thought

 

[JMcCoy]

My guess would be the caliper (just a guess). I overheated my drum brakes pretty bad. I was worried about the same things you are. That was over 120,000 miles ago and no problems so far.

 

[Road Dog]

I would say sticking caliper. It can stick if the pad completely worn and the piston is out all the way. It can stick because of dirty brake fluid. It can stick because of rust on the caliper slide or pad backing plate makes the brake pad bind. I had enough rust scale (1/32") to make the brake pad bind on the slide. It looked like normal surface rust but a little work with a chisel and hammer cleaned it right up.

 

[BT]

I replaced the pads with new OEM, bled the brakes, and took if for a short spin. The same side was smoking again! I noticed the pistons were very hard to compress when I took the caliper off and again when I put it back on over the new pads. So I guess it must be something wrong with the pistons. But I jacked the truck up and the wheels spun fine. Not sure why it is sticking enough to get so hot but then when I check it the wheel spins fine???



Any suggestions on whether to try rebuilding the caliper or just buying a new one? The manual shows a special tool to get the piston boots seated. Not sure if it is worth the effort even though can save a lot on buying a new caliper.

 

[JLandry]

Any suggestions on whether to try rebuilding the caliper or just buying a new one?

The easiest thing to do is buy an inexpensive ready-to-install remanufactured caliper from your favorite chain auto parts store. Most come with a lifetime warranty.



John L.

 

[fox]

Replace the hoses too. They collapse on the inside and will NOT release all the pressure.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Hmm, perhaps it's the hose... cheap way to tell is to take it off and blow fluid it through it... . Shouldn't return very easy if that's the case... . I'd wager it's more likely the caliper, but I could be wrong. To properly rebuild the caliper takes judgement and care... . If it's out of spec, it has to be rebored, and that takes judement, care, and a lathe/endmill. Personally, I'd go with the store brand with lifetime warranty... . JMO.



And on second thought, the hose is a bit cheaper than a caliper... ... .

 

[BT]

I'm replacing the rear calipers and rubber segment of the brake lines with EGR lines, which haven't come in yet. I want to get started but need to plug the brake lines so the fluid doesn't leak out of the system. Does anyone know the thread size for a plug or cap at the junction between the rubber brake hose from the wheel where it connects to the steel hard line?

 

[HHhuntitall]

You can slide the compression nut back and slip a silicone cap, like a vacuum cap, on there and it will hold the fluid from gravity leaks.