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rear brakes

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timing a 1st gen

1990 W350 U-joints?

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what is the size is the nut on the rear hub on an 1989 ctd 2wd i have to do some work on the rear brakes and i didn't now how big the nut is
 
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Don't forget to remove the keeper before removing the nut. If you don't, it tears up the nylon part of the nut. :rolleyes: New keepers are a good idea, and are available from NAPA.
 
The socket isnt a standard socket- it is a rounded corner job that is available at most NAPA, SnapOn, drivline shops, et al. Basically, it looks like they take a piece of pipe, and flare out the corners to the size and shape needed, then add a flat stock across the center, where they punch out a hole for the ratchet, breaker bar etc.



Also, upon reinstall, torque the nut to (I believe) 120ft-lbs, then back off 90deg. It is better to have wheel bearings a hair loose than a hair tight.



Daniel
 
Inspect the brake wheel cylinders for leaking. If you replace the cylinders, soak the brake line fitting and be careful taking the brake line off. Take your time putting the seals back in the brake drum/hub. The hub will be heavy when you go to lift it on to the axle: have a place to sit/stand so you can lift it into place without trashing the seal.



The only trouble I have had is self inflicted: pinching the seal surface or something like that.



I always adjust the bearings somewhat by feel: Torque down to 120 lbs, then back off 90 degrees or so until it feels free, but not too loose.



Consider getting rid of the RWAL (rear wheel anti lock) brake mechanism while you are at it. If you search the posts you can find a list of the fittings you need to bypass it. There is some argument that this is "slash and burn" wrenching. I got rid of mine several months ago, so this is my first winter without it. I do not think the RWAL ever worked on my truck (Family owned since 1991). Braking performance is much improved, and there is no downside in my case. Read the related posts and decide for yourself. :-laf
 
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