2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear brakes!!!!!!!!!

[JSmith]

My rear brakes suck big time. I have been reading the threads on the wheel cyl upgrade. I have a question for the members, has anyone done the TSB , follows( I got this off the TDR)



Revised power brake booster check valve.

This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with the 5. 9L Cummins diesel engine. A revised power brake booster check valve p/n 05011393AA has been released for service. The new check valve performance has been improved by changing the flapper style check valve to a spring loaded style check valve. The spring loaded style check valve performance is superior, especially in vehicles that utilize mechanical vacuum pumps to provide the vacuum source to operate the power brake booster. Part number 05011393AA should be used any time the power brake booster check valve is serviced on the subject model vehicles.



If I go this route, will I have to change out the wheel cyls?

Should I just change out the cyls, and forget the above valve swap?

 

[cmills]

mine too

My rear brakes don't ever work except sometimes in the morning when I hit the brakes for the very first time they will usually lock up. ( Anybody know why?) Other than that they don't work at all, I can load the truck real heavy and hit the brakes as hard as I want and the rear drums never get warm, I wish somebody had an idea, I have adjusted them and that doesn't seem to help. By the way my truck is a 99. Other than than the brakes and the 53 block( I know don't worry about it) I love my truck.





Any ideas would be great.



Cory

 

[Joe G.]

The valve swap and wheel cylinders have nothing to do with each other.



You need to replace the 2500 rear cylinders with the 3500. Then make sure you manually adjust the rears at least as often as you change oil. The so called automatic brake adjusters work when and if they want to.

 

[EricBu12]

I did the rear disk conversion. brakes work very well now even when towing. No chance of freezing up in cold weather or ice conditions as well. Works much better even if it is expensive.....

 

[y-knot]

I installed the larger rear wheel cylinders, and now have great brakes. I thought I had good brakes before, but you don't miss what you don't have. I redid the brakes at 45,000, the rears were absulotely perfect, they hadn't worn a 1/10th ". Why?? because they were never used, the front brakes were doing all the work (they were a little less then 50%). The up-grade is not hard (two bolts hold them in,and bleed) and not very expensive. Try it you will be amazed.

 

[cmills]

wheel cylinders

What larger wheel cylinders are you talking about? Do you mean switching to the 3500 ones or something else? Do you have to convert anything for it to work or just swap them?



Thanks

Cory

 

[Matt42]

Re: wheel cylinders

Originally posted by cmills

What larger wheel cylinders are you talking about? Do you mean switching to the 3500 ones or something else? Do you have to convert anything for it to work or just swap them?



Thanks

Cory

Exactly right. I got my 3500 cylinders at NAPA. Just switch them out and bleed. No more diffucult than swapping out like for like, no proportioning changes needed. Worked great for me.

 

[BillGotthelf]

If you have a 2500 you can put the slave cylinders from a 3500 (1") on the rears. If you really want performance order the 1 1/8" cylinders from EGR that they sell for the 3500 rears. Thats what I put on the back of my 2500-big difference.

 

[Matt42]

1 1/8" cylinders

Has there been any downside to your installation of the 1 1/8 inch real wheel cyulinders? Grabbing, locking up, or whatever.

 

[BillGotthelf]

No even when I warm up the slicks at the drag strip. The self adjusters are not very good so every couple of weeks I crawl under and click, click, click...

 

[cmills]

brakes

Matt, what were your brakes like before you switched the wheel cylinders.



Thanks,



Cory

 

[Matt42]

Re: brakes

Originally posted by cmills

Matt, what were your brakes like before you switched the wheel cylinders.



Thanks,



Cory

Kind of anemic, as if the front brakes were doing most of the work. They sometimes tended to pull to one side or another somewhat, but not as bad as a 1962 Falcon. Backing up to adjust the rears would alter the pull characteristic slightly, for a while. The difference after the wheel cylinder change was astounding. Even braking with my 27 foot TT was better, and I don't have an exhaust brake.

 

[cmills]

brakes

Matt, the thing is my brakes don't work at all the drums never get warm no matter what I'm hauling or pulling, they just plain don't work I have no idea what the problem is.



Cory

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by Joe G.

... . make sure you manually adjust the rears at least as often as you change oil. The so called automatic brake adjusters work when and if they want to.

 

[Matt42]

There may be something else wrong. Have you checked the main brake line to the rear for kinks or places where it has been crushed?

Were it me (for what it's worth), I'd try this



Jack up both rear wheels. Have a friend put his foot on the brake as you turn each wheel by hand to make sure that the brakes are working at all. I'd do it with engine on and off, just to be sure. Check also for spongy pedal, in case air in the rear system may be the problem. Does the parking brake, also known as the emergency brake, work?



If there was no braking in that test, something major may be wrong, which needs a diagnosis above my skill level.



If that test did work, I'd first do a manual adjustment and (careful) road test. If that had no effect, then I'd pull the drums and inspect the brakes. I'd also probably consider changing out the wheel cylinders on the prospect that they might be binding.

 

[dseabaugh]

I spent $26. 00 fo new larger wheel cylinders at napa and it was a whole new truck. used to think trucks brakes sucked and wifes chrysler had world class brakes. Trucks brakes are so much better that when I get in wifes car I think her brakes are crappy now. EASY CHEAP FIX. DO IT!

 

[cmills]

rear brakes

When you adjust the brakes which way do you rotate the the little wheel I forget. The last time I adjusted mine I just turned it until I could feel a little bit of drag but I was turing the drums as I had the wheels off.





Thanks

Cory

 

[cmills]

rear brakes

When you adjust the brakes which way do you rotate the the little wheel I forget. The last time I adjusted mine I just turned it until I could feel a little bit of drag but I was turing the drums as I had the wheels off.





Thanks

Cory

 

[Matt42]

Re: rear brakes

Originally posted by cmills

When you adjust the brakes which way do you rotate the the little wheel I forget. The last time I adjusted mine I just turned it until I could feel a little bit of drag but I was turing the drums as I had the wheels off.





Thanks

Cory

Ahhhhhh! Try making the adjustment with the wheels on and use the same "feel" for drag. It'll make a difference. Also, I can never remember which way to turn the star either. I turn it one way, and if nothing happens, I turn it the other.

 

[Loren]

Cory,



Two items:

1. Turn the star wheel down to tighten the adjuster. As I understand it, it will only turn one direction since there is supposed to be a ratchet (automatic adjuster) to prevent it from turning the other way. Turning the star wheel down is the same for both right and left.



2. I'm not positive, but my understanding of the reason why drum brakes will grab on the first stop of the day is that they pick up a tiny bit of rust overnight. The rusty surface has more friction against the shoe than a smooth surface does so the brakes grab. When the rust is worn off (after the first stop or so) the brakes go back to normal.



Loren