Rear end sag with load

[DSTEPHENSON]

I received the Timbren 55 short rubber springs today and have already installed them. I have about 1 inch clearance between them and the axle. Plan on pulling the 5er this Sun and return Wed or Thur. Will report back how this setup works. Sounds like Dave and I have the same problem.

Dencil

 

[jsimpson]

I had air bags on my 94 dually and needed them. Myb 03 4x4 dually handles my 3500 pound Lance or my 38 foot Wells Cargo fiver laoded with not even enough sag to level out the truck. AND it rides MUCH better unloaded or loaded then did my 94. No need for air bags or complaints here!!!

 

[geusterman]

Dave... I too am not using my air ride (Kelderman) or Ranchos on my 04 but am thinking about a swaybar. Maybe. My Camper Special 02 2500 had a sway bar and one overload spring which I bound to the main pack with the Kelderman system. Seriously, the main pak can't move closer to the overload stops. You can lift the truck with spacers between the main pack and axle but the main pak is fixed relative to the frame. Just make some spacers like I did to eat up the space between the overloads and the stops so your load starts right on the overloads. I was intending to add a third overload (Dodge does not even have a number for them) or have someone like Swain Springs in Great Falls MT make a new overload pack (4 springs) that they do for the ranchers since the long springs came into existence (can't carry as much!). HOWEVER, I have added a 4 spring mini-pak to the main pak and replaced the 3/4 inch slab spring on the bottom (with the mini-pak). I will have the camper on this week for a run and see how she does. George

 

[DSTEPHENSON]

I received the Timbren 55 short rubber springs today and have already installed them. I have about 1 inch clearance between them and the axle. Plan on pulling the 5er this Sun and return Wed or Thur. Will report back how this setup works. Sounds like Dave and I have the same problem.

Dencil

I pulled my 5er this week with the Timbrens and was surprised how well they worked for my situtation. It is much smoother as it seems the rubber springs is a good cushion that absorbs a lot of the shock when hitting bumps. At least they have helped to smooth the loaded ride. I have the 3500 SRW LWB. I notice most of you have the 4x4 trucks and what works for one may not work for your situtation.

Enjoy reading your posts.

Dencil

 

[Dean Upson]

I pulled my 5er this week with the Timbrens and was surprised how well they worked for my situtation. It is much smoother as it seems the rubber springs is a good cushion that absorbs a lot of the shock when hitting bumps. At least they have helped to smooth the loaded ride. I have the 3500 SRW LWB. I notice most of you have the 4x4 trucks and what works for one may not work for your situtation.

Enjoy reading your posts.

Dencil

I have a 3500 DRW and the Timbrens work for me as you have described. The unit stays level and the truck rides very well under load.

Dean

 

[Sherman]

George, I reread my post also and I guess it was poorly worded. What I meant to say is; raise the overload spring pack relative to the main spring pack (there already are a couple of spacers in there). This way the overloads are closer to the bump stops without changing the height/position of the main pack. Just another way to close the gap and allow the overloads to engage sooner.



Dave

I had the same problem,cured it with a 2 1/2" bump stop changed out for the OEM 1/2" over load bump stop,made by Energy suspensions. They do not affect the empty ride,They get the overloads making contact 2" earlier. By far the cheapest way to stop the ovarload slap.

 

[DKlimas]

Energy Suspension Bump Stops

Sherman, What part number bump stop did you use? What is the range of weight (gvw) you have been since installing? How how are they wearing? - Dave

 

[Red Ramrod]

Sorry to jump in so late. I also have the Energy Suspension bump stops Part #9. 9109 installed. I agree that under normal driving unloaded (including forest service roads) the bump stops are just far enough away that they do not hit. Once loaded they contact about 2" before the factory bump stop did. I have about 20K miles on mine (1/2 with a 5600lb slide-in camper) and they are not showing any wear. They do have a little cushion to them and compress slightly with a real heavy load. I load the camper and add some air to the airbags but leave a lot of weight on the overload springs. Really helps control sway and rides perfectly level. Total cost was about $60. With less load in the bed you would not need the air bags. I have had no problems with the air bags bottoming out but did notice a slightly stiffer ride unloaded after installing them. With only the bump stops you do not notice any change in unloaded ride.

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[DKlimas]

Red, Thanks for the info. Dave

 

[Sherman]

Red Ramrod has it covered,good pic's,I'm hauling a 15000# horse tr.

 

[Belchos]

This looks like a good place to start. Where do you get them?

Red Ramrod has it covered,good pic's,I'm hauling a 15000# horse tr.

Where do you get the stops? Energy Systems's web site was not too clear about ordering.

 

[Red Ramrod]

I bought mine from Summit Racing for $29/pr about 9 months ago, but they are no longer listed on the website. They may still sell them if you call. I checked and found them at Central 4WD for $38/pr. You need 2 pairs to do both sides. A lot of 4x4 shops sell Energy Suspension parts.

 

[geusterman]

I made my "bumpstops" from chunks of 2. 5" tube and bolted the rubber to them. I run without stops until I load my camper then in about a minute I put the stops in with a bolt to the stop frame mount. That way the camper starts on the overloads immediatly. I find the overloads are not sufficient anyway. I am going to have a triple or quad set built in Great Falls next time over (Swain Springs). George

 

[Belchos]

Just a start. You are right.

I made my "bumpstops" from chunks of 2. 5" tube and bolted the rubber to them. I run without stops until I load my camper then in about a minute I put the stops in with a bolt to the stop frame mount. That way the camper starts on the overloads immediatly. I find the overloads are not sufficient anyway. I am going to have a triple or quad set built in Great Falls next time over (Swain Springs). George

The stops will engage the overloads sooner, but will probably not stop the swaying unless there is something I don't understand about how they work. When I first let my Lance down on the new truck with the electric jacks I thought it was going right to the ground! So I am going to start with these, and if the swaying is still there I will have to look into something more. Your idea looks good.

 

[geusterman]

The more load you have on the overloads the less wobble/sway. By using up the space the truck sinks onto the overloads you get more support faster. If that is not enough then we need more spring, which I am doing. Talk to a good spring shop and I bet they have done lots of newer Dodges. George

 

[Bill Stockard]

I bought mine from Summit Racing for $29/pr about 9 months ago, but they are no longer listed on the website. They may still sell them if you call. I checked and found them at Central 4WD for $38/pr. You need 2 pairs to do both sides. A lot of 4x4 shops sell Energy Suspension parts.

I bought my Energy Suspension 9-9109R bump stops at my local 4-Wheel Parts Warehouse Store in Fort Worth, TX. I don't recall the exact price, but it was close to those posted above. You might check with them if there is one in your area.



Bill

 

[geusterman]

The problem with bolted-on bumpers that are larger to get to the overloads faster is that they hit on rough roads. Ideally, we would have a slip-on block that goes over the overload spring end and connects to the block on the other end with a quick connect cable. Carry those in the truck and that way have a full suspension for bumps when empty. I am going to design and make those for my truck for a quick fix when hauling heavy. George

 

[DaveK98]

Ok, I'm pulling up an old thread.



I tow a 13k 5th wheel and when I hit a decent bump it sounds like the overload springs are engaging. Normally when loaded there is about a 1-2 inch gap between the overload springs and stock bump stops.



This doesn't put too much load on the overload springs and not enough on the regular ones does it?



I'm thinking of getting the energy suspension stops, is everyone still happy with them?



Thanks

 

[geusterman]

Dave... see item before yours. The energy stops would be ok if you pulled all the time. But when empty you may be hitting them easier. Part of the problem is these new longer springs... they soften the ride but sag more. I went to 4 overloads per side and use a "quick release" spacer on the spring I fashioned. I just saw my old remeovable ones in the shop yesterday wondering if someone might like to buy them. I take off the rubber stops on the frame and bolt them to these 2" spacers which I then bolt back on the frame stop. The load sits right down on the overloads quickly. However, when I take them off for running empty I would have to take the rubber off too and put it back on the frame stopif I put an occacional heavy load in the truck. Someone should invent a quick on-off spacer. The ones I have now pin onto the end of a set of custom overloads. Good luck! George

 

[DaveK98]

geusterman, so basicly you just put in metal spacer instead of shelling out 60+ bucks for the energy suspension stops?



Looks like you could trim 1/2 inch to an inch off of the energy suspension stop and maybe be perfect?



I tow probably 90% of the time. My CTD feels bad cause I only let it out on weekends to pull my trailer.



My rig sits level, reason for inqury is I beleive that when I hit a bump(loaded) it then engages the overload springs making a rather loud noise. This is my guess becuase loaded the overload springs almost touch (1 inch or so) would have to look again.