Here I am

Rear end sag with load

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Creaking noise when bouncing.

1/2 of the dash is dark..

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Well, after screwing with metal spacers the $60 may not be so bad if it works. I bet those poly spacers would be fine for your truck seeings how it is mostly a tow truck. Lot more stable I might add if you can get on your overloads and stay there with a spacer. George
 
Dave,

I have installed the Energy Suspension bump stops since my original post and have been most pleased with the performance. They have completely eliminated the loud slapping noise on my rig when the camper is loaded. They do not engage when the truck is empty, so do not change the unloaded characteristics.



Cheers,

Dave
 
Ok, I've just ordered them and they should be here by wed.

I'll have a chance on Fri morning to install them so I'll see if there is a difference.



I too notice the loud slapping noise and it's annoying, and can't be good. Do you think that my/your trailers are just not heavy enough to engage the overload springs as they come from the factory?
 
Hi Dave,



I just noticed the post. My energy suspension stops are still holding up well - 30k about 10k with aheavy enough load to engage them. I do not hit them when not loaded - or if I do it is not noticeable. I would still recommend them. I think you will like them. Good luck.



Chad
 
Ok, they should be delivered at my house by now. Problem is I've been at work 14+hours for the past 3 days :( Hopefully I'll have time to throw them on before I hitch up the 5ver and go to the football game..... thanks again!



Also, last night I measured and unloaded there is only 2. 5 inches from the overload to the factory bump. That's telling me I'll only have about . 5 inch with the new bump's unloaded?



Kinda worrys me...
 
Well I installed them on Friday before I left. Only found it necc to remove one screw and kinda pull the wheel liner out, (on the first side I removed almost all of them,not necc). I also trimmed the bolt on the rear bump stops because when I used a deep socket it and tighen the bolt it would not allow me to remove the socket. Left side took me almost an hour, right side less than 10 minutes after I figured out the tricks.



They only have about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of room unloaded. Loaded they are deff touching and squish the bump stop. Don't notice the slapping anymore and think the truck rides somewhat better. For under $70 bucks it was worth it.



Why did Dodge design it so that the overload springs weren't used unless the weight was REALLY heavy? My trailer weighs at least 11-12k and wasn't making them touch the factory bumpstops before.
 
DaveK98,



Would you tell me where you were able to order your bump stops. I'm have a hellava time finding them on the web. Thanks.



Michael
 
Sorry this is so delayed, been out of town.....



I got mine at 4 wheelparts, see link below. Had them shipped to my house. Didn't do any price research so they might be cheaper elsewhere.



Also did you see the other thread where this is being discussed? When I installed the rear bump stops I cut off about 1/2 inch-1 inch of the threaded bolt on the bump stops. This allowed me to get my socket in there and clear the bottom of the bed. You may not have to do this but I found it easier than removing more from the truck. Just don't cut too much off.



http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/prod...n=ENE&parentProdline=SusMountsENE&expand=sub2
 
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Hi. Can you or DaveK98 give me the part # that you used at 4wheelparts? Will this work on a '05 2500 quad-cab shortbox 4x4? Thanks, Andy
 
I believe from the link above the part # ENE9-9109



Does your 2500 have overload springs? This mod is used to make the overload springs come in contatct quicker and thus take some of the load. I found that even 11-12k lbs on my 3500 dually didn't make them contact.
 
aphillips, No problem



My truck doesn't get too much use as well. I've only got 5k on it after 6 months and 2. 2k of that was one weekend.
 
OK, you guys are making me nervous. Let me introduce myself as a first time CTD owner, as I just purchased a 2003 2500 Quad 4x4 w/ 43k miles. Previously, I was towing my 28' Jag TT with my '04 Durango, 5. 7L Hemi. The Durango had the power to pull, but drank like a sorority girl on her 21st birthday! :-laf



Anyway, I bought this truck (which I love!) to make towing 1. more comfortable, 2. more efficient, and 3. more economical. I am concerned with the first reason after reading 130+ posts about sagging, bumping, etc... Since my camper is covered and wintered 70 miles from here, I will not get to pull with my new toy until spring. So, what can I expect, and what (if anything) do I need to do to make the tow more comfortable/safer? I want to go west this summer, and want the experience to be a good one for the family.
 
6 roblees in spokane has ride rite air bags(no drill )$200. 00 +tax

put them on mine, work great 509-535-8862
 
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Is that an ebay sight? I might put some on my 3500 too. I have them on both Gen 2s and love them. I got in trouble once on an RV forum for comparing the rubber bumpers to a gloified piece of wood, but if you vary your loads often bags are the way to go.
 
Hitch Height?

Hunter1



Did you solve your problem? What did you mean,(had your axles flipped)? I use the equal-i-zer hitch, they have a 13" rise available. I need 30 plus inches and found this a good setup. www.equalizerhitch.com



What do you thing of, if you are on the over loads, your truck and load (TT) are more stable?



Thanks, Kelly.
 
Firestone makes airbags that carry upto 5000 lbs, and you can intall a pump and tank that would allow you to adjust pressure from inside the cab.
 
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