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Rear Freeze Plug In Block Solutions?

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Flux 1's and stock motor .......

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It was suggest to drill out the brass tabs in the thermostat. That would at least relieve enough pressure if the thermostat were closed on an engine that was not at full operating temperature. Cause a little longer warm up time and only solves one possible cause.



It does seem like downloaders, in my case a Smarty, that fuels through higher rpm range than normal certainly was part of the problem.
 
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we have removed the little brass tabs on the thermostat and drill the little holes out to 1/8 inch to relieve the pressure. seems to be working so far. we also have the rear freeze plug strapped.
 
we have removed the little brass tabs on the thermostat and drill the little holes out to 1/8 inch to relieve the pressure. seems to be working so far. we also have the rear freeze plug strapped.





You beat me to it Robert. I have done this mod last year and so far no problems. The drilled out thermostate acts like a 180*... during the winter months I simply slap in an OE 19O*. $39. 00 bucks . What's nice about it is the 1/8" holes you always have flow, and even if the temp. isn't up to 190* to open it all the way, there is enough relief to minimize the pressure. Now don't be like saying to yourself " if 2 -1/8" holes are good maybe larger ones are better":rolleyes: :rolleyes: Don't do it. If you do, you will not get your truck up to the proper operating temp it needs to burn the fuel properly for the most HP.
 
You beat me to it Robert. I have done this mod last year and so far no problems. The drilled out thermostate acts like a 180*... during the winter months I simply slap in an OE 19O*. $39. 00 bucks . What's nice about it is the 1/8" holes you always have flow, and even if the temp. isn't up to 190* to open it all the way, there is enough relief to minimize the pressure. Now don't be like saying to yourself " if 2 -1/8" holes are good maybe larger ones are better":rolleyes: :rolleyes: Don't do it. If you do, you will not get your truck up to the proper operating temp it needs to burn the fuel properly for the most HP.



thats right do not go to big or you will lose efficiancy. 1/8 has proven to work very well in our application





Having never removed my trucks t-stat before, what do I need to do the job? New gasket?



the gasket comes with the thermostat from the dealer if thats where you get it.
 
We ended up making a plate as described by Jeff K. Thanks Jeff! Of course it didn't come out quite right because we didn't know much about the contour at the bottom, so we ended up custom fitting it with the fire wrench. A couple of washers in the plug itself for support, and tightening the plate pushed it right in. I don't know what it looks like back there, but it sure ain't leaking.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice on this problem. It was helpful.



Thanks,

Chris
 
Freeze plugs are only in there so as to access the sand that is cast in the blocks when they are made. The freeze plug name came about when engine blocks were really thick way back then and the plug would blow instead of the block. Some times a freeze plug will blow if a block freezes, but don't count on it. I have had blocks freeze and break without the plugs coming out.
 
Maybe we should ask the question as to why this is happening in the first place?

Freeze plugs are in the block to relieve pressure if the water freezes and expands, correct? This is to protect the block from cracking. Some of us are creating a great amount of pressure in the coolant causing the blow-outs. Does anyone think we can fab up some type of pressure release valve to alleviate the situation? Obviously it's not happening on the radiator cap relief side, so something would have to be block mounted... I've got some ideas, what about you guys?



I have seen on here somewhere, a electric water pump. That would be the slickest. :cool:
 
Freeze plugs are only in there so as to access the sand that is cast in the blocks when they are made.

Correct. In the foundry business, they're known by their correct name - core plugs. They're only there to allow for shakeout - cleaning the casting sand out of the water jackets of the block. On most industrial engines, threaded plugs are used for this application.



Rusty
 
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Another way to fix this without dropping the transmission it to takethe down pipe off the turbo and pull the cooling line that is in your way. It is tight but it saves a lot of work of pulling the transmission. My rear one blew 3 days after the smarty. A couple solutions to pressure would be running a waterless coolant, therefore you wouldn't need any pressure in your system or running a lesser lb radiator cap. I have a 7 lb cap on now.
 
Now I wonder why there would be a problem with the pressure buildup in the block. I notice the heater hose port comes right out of the top of the head. You'd think this would be a fine pressure relief and drilling the 2 . 125" holes in the thermostat would be moot with a . 750" hole for the coolant pressure to escape through.

Is there some kind of restriction in the heater hose circuit?



Thanks,

Chris
 
Hello,

Out of town and I need some Help to get home!



Does anyone know the dealer part # for the freeze plug on a 2004. 5 Dodge?

I went to the dealer and they have the wrong # for this part and could not give me a correct one.



2004. 5, 2500 4x4 600 Engine, Hot Juice,Magnaflow Muffler,Afe Proguard 7,Heavy Duty Front & Rear Bumper,Ranch Hand Tool Box,Walbro lift pump



471 HP, 994 TQ 03/09/07 American Racing Technology Dyno





Brian
 
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