Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Rear Transmission Seal Leaking? Pics to confirm.

[SuncoastCustoms]

So I parked my truck the other day for about 3 days while driving my other car. I noticed it was leaking transmission fluid on the ground. Parking it on the clean floor in my warehouse, I noticed it was creating a little "puddle" (a couple inches around). I noticed that the bottom of the transmission always had a drop or two on the bottom of the rear seal, but now I just noticed that it collects on the ground. I took pics of the leak area, shown below. It also appears the seal is a little beat, not sure who did that, it was like that when I got it. If it is the rear seal, which I am about 99. 9% sure it is, please let me know. Also, anyone who has replace their own, let me know how hard and how you did it. IF you think I should not try, then please let me know, and I will have someone else do it. Please see the pics and let me know what you think.



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[SRadke]

Yep, rear seal. Should be a few bucks, maybe 10??? guessing here. All you have to do to replace it is remove the driveline from the yoke at the differential (2 u-bolts) and the carrier bearing (if applicable) and slide it out of the transmission. Then pop the old seal out with a seal puller or screwdriver, tap the new one in and reassemble. Should be no problem.



-Scott

 

[SuncoastCustoms]

Originally posted by SRadke

Yep, rear seal. Should be a few bucks, maybe 10??? guessing here. All you have to do to replace it is remove the driveline from the yoke at the differential (2 u-bolts) and the carrier bearing (if applicable) and slide it out of the transmission. Then pop the old seal out with a seal puller or screwdriver, tap the new one in and reassemble. Should be no problem.



-Scott

When I pull the driveshaft yolk out of the transmission, how much if any fluid is going to come pouring out? Do I need to drain first or is it going to be a little bit and just top off after the change? Thanks for your help.

 

[SRadke]

Ive never done it on a 2wd but if it were a transfercase I'd expect about a pint them top it off. I imagine an auto would be similar.



-Scott

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Greetings, yes, you can do this yourself!



As was said - remove the drive shaft (take out the bolts holding the straps for the u-joints - should be a 3/8" soocket. (when you put these back in - do NOT make them as tight as you can - they will break like any bolt will. If you have a torque wrench use it - if not - snug them down good - but don't overdue it.



The seal - take a nice craftsman or snap-on screw driver (they are lifetime warranty) or use a dull chisel - and work your way around the outside of the seal lip - tapping inwards and towards the rear - to work the seal out. Yes, - about a pint will come out. Clean the where the new seal will go with a rag and some brake cleaner. Install the new seal - using a LITTLE silicone around the outet edge of the new seal - to help prevent leaks around the outer edge. To install it: the easiest is a seal driver - or - get a large socket that fits over the rubber, but sits on the metal lip and use that to drive it in. If you don't have that - use a punch and work around the outside . The last way is the hardest - be carefull not to cock the seal too much or it will bend and leak.



OIL the drive shaft yoke before you reinstall it (yes - get all the dirt off first).



If you have many miles on the vehicle, the output busing may be worn and need replacing - if you do not have transmission bushing drivers - don't try it yourself. If after you replace the seal and it starts leaking after a while - you probably need the bushing replaced.



Seal - should be 10-15 for a good one.



Dan

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Oh yea



The seal will have a notch in the outer lip - this goes on the top - that will make the little hole in the rubber at the bottom. Not so much to let oil drip out, but to let any water that gets in the outter boot to drip out.



Dan

 

[SuncoastCustoms]

Originally posted by Dan_69GTX

Greetings, yes, you can do this yourself!



As was said - remove the drive shaft (take out the bolts holding the straps for the u-joints - should be a 3/8" soocket. (when you put these back in - do NOT make them as tight as you can - they will break like any bolt will. If you have a torque wrench use it - if not - snug them down good - but don't overdue it.



The seal - take a nice craftsman or snap-on screw driver (they are lifetime warranty) or use a dull chisel - and work your way around the outside of the seal lip - tapping inwards and towards the rear - to work the seal out. Yes, - about a pint will come out. Clean the where the new seal will go with a rag and some brake cleaner. Install the new seal - using a LITTLE silicone around the outet edge of the new seal - to help prevent leaks around the outer edge. To install it: the easiest is a seal driver - or - get a large socket that fits over the rubber, but sits on the metal lip and use that to drive it in. If you don't have that - use a punch and work around the outside . The last way is the hardest - be carefull not to cock the seal too much or it will bend and leak.



OIL the drive shaft yoke before you reinstall it (yes - get all the dirt off first).



If you have many miles on the vehicle, the output busing may be worn and need replacing - if you do not have transmission bushing drivers - don't try it yourself. If after you replace the seal and it starts leaking after a while - you probably need the bushing replaced.



Seal - should be 10-15 for a good one.



Dan

Thank you so much for your info. I will look for a seal soon.

 

[Fred Swanson]

Geez, I have a few of those seals just laying around. Most transmission builders will have a small stockpile of the 2WD output shaft seals. Comes in every overhaul kit.

 

[Extreme1]

The only thig I'd add is to lube the new seal after it's intalled and before you slide the driveshaft in.

 

[SuncoastCustoms]

Originally posted by Extreme1

The only thig I'd add is to lube the new seal after it's intalled and before you slide the driveshaft in.

What kinda lube should I use for the seal before and after install?

 

[Dan_69GTX]

use some sort of high temp grease - wheel bearing, etc.



Some of the new seals come with grease on the rubber lip - some don't.



If the seal is dry - then it can wear into the driveshaft yoke, wear the seal, and leak.



If you put grease on it BEFORE you install it, it is much easier - since the output shaft of the trans is in the way after.



That would be the purpose of lubing the yoke before installing it - but adding the grease would be added protection.



Dan

 

[Crowhurst]

I've purchased a replacement oil seal to cure a slight leak at the rear of my auto transmission. I see that there is a large rubber boot with a drain hole at the bottom. The replacement oil seal, from NAPA, is a simple seal. Does the rubber boot just pull off, and get pushed back after the seal is replaced, or should the new seal include a built-in boot? The shop manual doesn't show the rubber boot. Thanks. Nick.

 

[SRadke]

The boot seals dust out while the seal seals oil in. Both are one piece. Some seals may not have the boot attached however I would not uses one that didn't. What I do exposes my truck to a lot of dust and the boot is a necessity.



-Scott

 

[Crowhurst]

Scott, thank you. I don't understand when you say "both are one piece". Are they two separate items? If , on the other hand,the boot and seal are all one piece, when I hammer in the seal, how do I avoid damaging the boot? Sorry if I'm being stupid, but I have only the one vehicle, so I have to have everything organised and understood before I start. Do I have to buy a different seal, or can I reuse the existing rubber boot? Thanks. Nick.

 

[SRadke]

The boot and the seal are molded together, all one piece. There will be a steel ring around the outside of the seal that slips into the tailhousing and a collar or lip on the that ring that will be flush with the back of the tailhousing when the seal is installed.

 

[Crowhurst]

Scott, many thanks. I will now buy the correct seal. Nick.

 

[Stmpplr]

Dodge part number is 4531216AB. Got one today at dealer. Ouch! $17. 75

 

[Crowhurst]

Scott and Stmpplr, thanks, I now understand, and have now bought the correct seal. To replace the seal without damaging the rubber boot, I am using a heavy white plastic end cap for a 2 inch ID plastic plumbing pipe. It fits the outside of the oil seal perfectly, having an OD of 2 and 3/4 inches, and is strong enough to hammer on. It probably cost about $2, if I remember correctly. The Home Depot part # is C447-020, with barcode 0 39923 13688 6. I tried to buy the service tool, but the local Dodge dealer told me to just find something that fits, like they do. Thanks again. Nick.

 

[SRadke]

Glad you've got it worked out. Too bad you couldn't find one anyplace but the dealer, their prices could break a guy Good luck with the install and be sure to get the drain hole in the rubber boot on the bottom side



-Scott

 

[Crowhurst]

Well, it took 4 attempts to get the correct seal for my 4 WD:

1. From NAPA. p/n 19211. No protective boot, so I returned it.

2. From Dodge dealer p/n 4531216AB - too small. I think this may be for 2WD.

3. From Dodge dealer p/n 5086054AA - too big. This may be the heavy duty transfer box seal.

4. From Dodge dealer, p/n 4746258, the correct one for my 4WD.



No shadetree mechanic will need reminding of what a PITA that all was.

On my truck there is a centre carrier bearing to support the propshaft half way along its length. The carrier is held by two bolts to a bracket. As the fuel tank is in the way, I was unable to remove one of the bolts. I therefore had to remove the bracket, which is held by 4 bolts and flag nuts to a transverse frame member. The flagnuts are easily accessible (so what!), but the two rear bolt heads are difficult to access. I only just managed it after an hour's work, using a bent neck open-ended 15 mm wrench. There must be an easier way. When I replaced the bracket, I put the flag nuts on top, hidden inside the cross member. Next time it will be very easy.

The plastic pipe fitting I mentioned in an earlier post is the correct size only to install the 2WD seal p/n 45312126AB. For the larger seal I used a short length of 4 inch plastic pipe. It worked, just. Nick.