Recommendations for an entry level welder?

[Arcticat]

I can tell from the few welding threads that have popped up here that there are some experienced welders on this site. Hopefully you guys can point me in the right direction on an entry level welder. I have welded with my oxy/acetylene torchset, but I am fairly green concerning MIG vs TIG vs Arc welders, wire feed or no, gas shielded, etc. I am looking to spend $500 or less, but would spend more if there was a major plateau of quality vs cost a little farther up the price scale. First project I have is hangers and joints on a new 4" exhaust, also repair of a flatbed trailer chassis (1/4" steel). I have wished I had a welder many times, mostly for custom brackets, frames etc, 1/8 to 1/4 steel plate. What would you do?Thanks guys

 

[illflem]

In your price range you are pretty much limited to a stick type welder, which in my opinion and many others, is the best. Get an AC/DC rig. It's hard to go wrong with the old red reliable Lincoln buzz box- the AC/DC 225/125 they run around $400 and will probably outlive you.

 

[C Schomer]

I've had 3 Lincolns - all very good. The 225 AC/DC would be good for under $500 for stick welding. I had an old copper Lincoln A/C 225 that I built a rectifier for, just before they made the AC/DC. It will do good on 1/4". I found a used copper wound Lincoln 'Doghouse' for $300 a long time ago. You might look for one of them - one of the best AC/DC stick welders ever built with industrial rating! They have a rounded top and a big wheel on the front to adjust current. Whats nice about them is the transformer core slides in and out of the transformer to give infinate current control. It is a true variable transformer! You can weld light Fe metals with a stick welder using silicon bronze fill rod and a carbon rod in the stinger. I have a Lincoln SP170T(gas shielded wirefeed) now and love it. I think this would be the minimum in a wirefeed for 1/4". It's 230VAC primary and a LOT hotter than any of the other home wirefeeds. It was about $1030 with bottle and wire - ready to go. It welds 'primo' - as nice as the big units! Gas shielding is no good if there's any wind but you can switch to fluxed core wire. It does good on 1/4" but only at 20% duty cycle. If I were doing a lot of 1/4" or heavier, I'd drag out the 'Doghouse' again. You can find great buys on used stick welders in the paper but wirefeed is getting so popular, you can't find a good one cheap ! The bed I built for my truck gave me a good excuse to buy the wirefeed! Don't just buy a 'buzzbox'(AC only) if you get a stick welder. DC works much better for carbon arc and great for the higher strength, low hydrogen 7018 rod. Craig

 

[Wayne M.]

I think for around $500 you can do an entry level lincoln MIG. For what you want, you'll need at least 130 amps. If you spent a little bit more you can get other brands such as Miller or Hobart and wind up with real quality and available replacement parts. MIG's do use "consumables" such as tips, liners, and the wire itself. some important features to look for are infinite power and wire feed speed, and 220V capability (extends duty cycle and machine works better). The jury is out on weather solid or flux core wire is best (gas or gasless), but I use . 023" solid core (with Co2/Argon gas) and I can join tin foil or 1/4 plate. It takes some practice get the hang of but it helps to have clean metal and a good machine. I am not a professional Welder, but I do use a MIG.

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'92 W250,3. 54,auto,reg cab, raven hi top cap, tach,boost,transtemp,pyro. 16cm housing.

1971 Plymouth Duster 340 Autumn bronze, Black buckets/console. 8 pt roll cage, other racing mods. 12 second bracket racer. BOMBing not done yet!!

[This message has been edited by Wayne M. (edited 03-31-2001). ]

 

[RBrunson]

All above good info. Part of that 500 will have to go for other things like hood, gloves,ect. If you are just starting out I would check out harborfreight.com and look at their selection of meny different welders. If you are not making a living with it no need to buy the best. My Miller AC/DC with "dry head" Tig torch will do just about any job that comes along, and I have about 350 in it.

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Ron

'96 4x2 2500 Garnet/Driftwood Auto,3. 54,K&N,Cobra,Westac guages combo 50psi boost/egt, trans temp. on AutoMeter full piller duel pod, 93 TT Terry 29L,'84 VW Rabbit diesel,

 

[JConley]

If there is any way you can swing it, get a Miller 185 Mig. Your needs will change depending on future projects, and the 185 will do everything from 20ga to 3/8". The worst thing you can do is get a welder that fits your need now, and then not be able to handle a project that comes up in a year or so, because the welder is too small. I went through the same decision making process you are going through, and I am glad I spent the extra for the 185. I had to weld a bunch of 1/4" wall box beam, and there is no way a small welder would have handled the duty cycle I needed for this project. Get more than what you need, and you will never make the same purchase twice. I know of a couple of people with two welders now becaus they didnt get one big enough the first time.

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98 QC 2500 2WD 12 Valve Automatic, 3. 54 Mag-Hytec transmission pan. DTT Valve Body. Wrap around black Grill Guard (BIG solid steel one. AFC controller adjusted, Mopar mud flaps, Camper package, 2001 Tow mirrors, Cat ran away, No Muff
My Mustang
My Ram
The Wrecking Crew web site for Junkyard Wars
Go Aggies!!!

 

[C Schomer]

RBRUNSON has a good idea. If you get a AC/DC, you can add TIG either now or later. Use stick for the big stuff and TIG for anything else you want except aluminum - that takes high frequency. There are machines that do all 3 kinds of welding like the old Airco 'Dipstick' but they usually don't do a real good job of all 3. Craig

 

['956Wheel]

I would tend to agree with Conleyjo, I have a Millermatic 185 and it does everything I need and then some. I got a Lincoln 125 first then needed more amps. The Lincoln has it's place as it is a 115 volt machine, its real nice for fences and gates cause anywhere you go theres 115 voltage. The 185 is a "shop machine" 230 volt so it pretty much stays home.

If I were you I would read all I could find, also go to your local welding supply store, some will let you try any machine you wish, Airco (now Air Gas does). You will not find a 115 volt machine that will do 1/4" if they tell you it will they are full of it! The Lincoln 125 claims you can do 3/16", maybe a preheated butt weld but not a fillet.

Good luck Bro
Mike

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9535hundred

 

[CPH]

Take a look at HTP. Good stuff! I have the 140. Does everything I need at home. Copper windings.

cph

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I vote you watch Craigslist for a 175a or higher 120/230v wire feed. Stick is cool and all for structure steel; I have one but only use it for super dirty steel or hard facing.

TIG welding needs some schoolin' to make it work as intended and is also unnecessary for 99% of most home type hobbyist. I have a TIG machine but only use it for alum and stainless steel; I bought it just to have it.

Almost 100% of the time! I fire up my wire feed first. If I'm welding outside with a little wind or have some mildly dirty steel, I switch out the solid core wire with some shielded core wire and weld away. The wire feed welder is hands down the easiest welder to start with.

Stick and TIG takes lots and lots of practice. I'm efficient at them all but it took about 15+ years to say that.

Get yourself a hand me down wire feed and weld your butt off.

 

[Gonzo 1066]

I bought my wife a Millermatic 185 for our 38th it is a great little welder and will do exactly what you want it to. Granted you will be over your dollar but I would reccomend saving up for one that will last you a long time.

 

[MChrist]

I bought my wife a Millermatic 185 for our 38th it is a great little welder and will do exactly what you want it to. Granted you will be over your dollar but I would reccomend saving up for one that will last you a long time.

Gotta keep the wife happy!!!

 

[BIGNASTY]

When I moved from a home in Calif with a shop set up for 220v I had Millermatic 35 ??? I sold it and went to a Lincoln SA 200 stick welder, and bought a Hobart 210 for the small stuff and it didn't take a lot of power because we live off grid so I would have to run an AUX gen-set to use it. I don't do a lot of intricate welding but the little Hobart works fine for that, most of the welding I use the SA 200 and didn't find it a hard jump from wire feed to stick myself, I like the stick welding. Stick selection is a big part of the equation using the right stick for the task makes it SO MUCH BETTER.

The Yoda of welding as far as im concerned is GHarman on this site, he has helped me greatly with his many years of professional Knowledge.

 

[PDM]

The right tool for the job. If you want to weld on exhaust pipes, mig with a smaller wire size will be so much easier than stick. Honestly, I would rather use O/A on an exhaust than do it with stick. If you want to try stick, the 1/8"-1/4" sheet would be a good place for that, and start with an electrode that doesn't have a heavy flux layer, 6013 thinner sheet, 6012 sheet, 6011 dirty/rusty stock. With stick you really have to choose the right electrode for the task, and the right power source. Some electrodes really are meant for dc power, and some are even polarity specific. It will help that you have used O/A, you know about controlling the weld puddle, but the flux will complicate the view, and proper "weave/travel" will have to be used to keep the flux out of your bead. Get a handbook, do some homework, and practice a little on scrap...so much easier than grinding a bad weld! The truth with welding is that the prepwork often takes longer than the actual welding. Grind away the rust and paint, and the welding will turn out better.

Good luck!

 

[Bob4x4]

If you learn to weld with a stick everything else will seem easy.Way back when I welded up holes in a door skin with stick

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I have welded exhaust pipe and other stuff that thickness, even thinner, with stick (5/64" rod) and find it a lot easier in DC than in AC. One advantage to stick is the parts don't seem to have to be as clean as for MIG to get decent results.

 

[BIGNASTY]

My wire feed was a pretty good sized one but I still think that you get better penetration with stick than you do with wire feed. If there is a choice in either wire feed or stick, if the material is thick enough to use stick, hands down I would rather burn a few rods.

 

[PDM]

My wire feed was a pretty good sized one but I still think that you get better penetration with stick than you do with wire feed. If there is a choice in either wire feed or stick, if the material is thick enough to use stick, hands down I would rather burn a few rods.

You know I pretty much agree with this, but there are a few details that come into play. Most home shop migs are using .035 or even thinner wire, and that wire can carry only so much current. The type of gas affects transfer type which affects penetration. Run a thicker wire, different gas (or flux-core wire), fancier welder (often on 3-phase) and you will find penetration is not a problem. That said, if I need deep penetration on thick steel I will probably begin with 6010 dc-reverse polarity in a diameter thick enough for the current needed. If your equipment is marginal for thicker stock preheating can often help make a satisfactory weld.

I agree with the many suggestions for the OP to search for a used AC/DC stick welder, lots of bang for the buck there.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I have seen a fair number of pretty MIG welds that had inadequate penetration. I can crank up the amperage on the stick welder with proper rod and get all the penetration I want.

 

[BIGNASTY]

I have seen a fair number of pretty MIG welds that had inadequate penetration. I can crank up the amperage on the stick welder with proper rod and get all the penetration I want.

Learning the in's and out's of stick welding I have made some steel look like Swiss cheese, its pretty amazing how thick a steel you can blow holes in when things are not set up right :-laf

Getting use to striking an arc on the stick was the hard part for me, its a little unnerving at first :--)