Remanufactured Engines

[CVR222NV]

CVR222NV, If you have not locked-in with DFC yet, I recommend you stop by Diesel Specialists on Production Court in NLV and talk with Daryl (owner). Look at his 2006 motor while your there (he's real proud of it and rightly so). I lost the #6 cylinder in my 5.9 (broken rings) and did my rebuild similar to what your planning, right down to the Colt stage 3 cam...although I had another shop do my rebuild several years ago.... but if I had it to do over I'd have Daryl handle it this time. He's done a lot of work on my truck since the rebuild and he's very sharp and stands behind his work. He also put the BD trans and FASS 'Platinum' lift-pump in my 2004.5. Pay him a visit. I'm a fan of 'staying-local' with repairs because there's always 'stuff' that needs to be dialed-in weeks and months after the rebuild and you won't get that type of service with an out-of-state or out-of-country rebuilder. My .05 cents.

Thanks Axekicker! I had that shop do my clutch installation but when I called to discuss this project they took a message and didn't return my call. I just assumed they were not interested. Plus their reviews have not been great like many of the other shops in Vegas. The additional cost to go out of town is around $1200 for shipping and the shipping container back to Vegas. I have to say that DFC's customer service has been superb. I had Sin City Diesel pull the motor and they will also do the install. They have the ability to do the rebuild but are planning to move to a new facility they are building in NLV very soon and they were worried that they would not be able to meet my timeline. I appreciated their honesty. They did refer me to a machine shop out at the Speedway that is building 5.9 Cummins but after waiting 3 weeks for an estimate I finally gave up. It would have been great to keep the business in Vegas but in the end it just didn't feel right. My regular diesel mechanic, who works for Chapman Dodge, can get the motor running and dialed in so I'm not worried about that. I do my own service but he has been doing everything else for years and I'm very happy with his service.

 

[Axekicker]

Sounds like you've got it handled. Our biggest problem in town is the machine-shops. We don't have enough and they're backed-up. My block was in an un-named machine shops 'que' for many months which really put my rebuild behind schedule. Hope yours turns out better time-wise.

 

[CVR222NV]

Sounds like you've got it handled. Our biggest problem in town is the machine-shops. We don't have enough and they're backed-up. My block was in an un-named machine shops 'que' for many months which really put my rebuild behind schedule. Hope yours turns out better time-wise.

Yeah that is exactly what I was afraid of and if I had to wait over three weeks to get an estimate (which I never got) the writing was on the wall. DFC indicates their process is about 10 days but I already know it will take longer in my case to assess the block and once I know what the bore is I need to order the pistons which will be an additional delay but all that is on me. I will be thrilled if I get my engine back in the 4-5 week range. We will see.

 

[CVR222NV]

I intend to install a remanufactured CP3 injection pump from Industrial Injection as part of my build. You can get a Industrial Injection Reman, a Bosch Reman, or Bosch New. They also have them in stock, 33% over, Dragon Fire 85% 10mm, and Double Dragon 120% 12mm Stroker. After speaking to Industrial Injection I have eliminated the last two options but it sounds like the 33% over is more in line with the tow/haul upgrade I have planned and my existing modifications. Industrial Injection indicated I would not need to upgrade the fuel pump for the 33% over. Any thoughts on the 33% over upgrade?

 

[cerberusiam]

Either that or Exergy's sportsman pump. I have no idea which is best bang for the $$. Some of the early II pumps were junk but that was years ago.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

I intend to install a remanufactured CP3 injection pump from Industrial Injection as part of my build. You can get a Industrial Injection Reman, a Bosch Reman, or Bosch New. They also have them in stock, 33% over, Dragon Fire 85% 10mm, and Double Dragon 120% 12mm Stroker. After speaking to Industrial Injection I have eliminated the last two options but it sounds like the 33% over is more in line with the tow/haul upgrade I have planned and my existing modifications. Industrial Injection indicated I would not need to upgrade the fuel pump for the 33% over. Any thoughts on the 33% over upgrade?

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Any updates on this project?

 

[CVR222NV]

DFC delivered the motor in early June to my buddy's shop but he could not deliver it to my house until the week after the 4th of July. Excellent packaging and finish. Even my OCD diesel mechanic buddy was impressed. I had already cleaned all the parts that are going back on the motor but two things have held up the project:

• The Las Vegas temperatures in my garage have been excessive. I have been thinking about a portable AC unit of some type
• Given the issues I have been experiencing with my transmission I am agonizing over whether this is a good time to also pull the transmission and get it rebuilt

I am getting some of the parts powder coated black to match the black parts that DFC painted black since it looks so pretty

 

[Axekicker]

I had the same dilemma when I rebuilt my engine. The engine rebuild costs were escalating and the trans worked fine and only had about 30k miles on it when the engine went down, so I opted to not touch the trans. Jump forward 2 years...the motor is back in the truck and on the first test-drive the trans refused to shift properly and had a new grinding noise that didn't exist previously. So the truck went back in the shop and the trans was pulled and a chipped tooth was found on the trans pump-gear. It was 'fixable' but I figured since the trans was out and apart....may as well bite the bullet and make it 'new' along with the engine. It was beyond my budget so our kids jumped in to help and I had the shop install an upgraded BD trans....with specs to match the output of the rebuilt 5.9 and now...several years and 30k later, both engine and trans are playing happy-together, and the kids are back in the will. Your-mileage-may-vary, but I think there's wisdom in one-and-done when it comes to these types of projects, even if your kids have to help-out Hind-sight is 20-20. The take-away.....Murphy is alive-and-well.

 

[Tuesdak]

Truck will shift like new if you do esp. if you replace the plastic bushing on the end of the shifter. I did my trans with an engine rebuild and recommend it. It's already unbolted from the engine and IMO that's the hard part. For me it saved $$$ as I hired it all out.

 

[CVR222NV]

Truck will shift like new if you do esp. if you replace the plastic bushing on the end of the shifter. I did my trans with an engine rebuild and recommend it. It's already unbolted from the engine and IMO that's the hard part. For me it saved $$$ as I hired it all out.

Everything seems to be pointing to the synchros and although I have not done a lot of towing the transmission does have 207,000 miles on the clock. Did you also rebuild the transfer case?

 

[Tuesdak]

Everything seems to be pointing to the synchros and although I have not done a lot of towing the transmission does have 207,000 miles on the clock. Did you also rebuild the transfer case?

2WD... I posted a picture where the syncro's were worn "flat" aka at the wear limits. They also did the rear bearing lube mod to the case at the same time. Some of the bearings were starting to mark up as well. I had 120K on it, but, the PO blew the engine so badly that an oil sample showed coolant in the MT oil (!)

Pics here: note the scoring on the lip where the syncro was worn away to useless.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ase-bearing-nv5600.268610/page-5#post-2673886

 

[CVR222NV]

2WD... I posted a picture where the syncro's were worn "flat" aka at the wear limits. They also did the rear bearing lube mod to the case at the same time. Some of the bearings were starting to mark up as well. I had 120K on it, but, the PO blew the engine so badly that an oil sample showed coolant in the MT oil (!)

Pics here: note the scoring on the lip where the syncro was worn away to useless.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ase-bearing-nv5600.268610/page-5#post-2673886

I will call Standard Transmission on Monday morning and discuss a rebuild with them. Their website says they tear the transmission apart and diagnose and then provide an estimate of what is needed. I will be sure to discuss any modifications/upgrades available for my G56.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Got the motor pulled:

CVR222NV, how did you remove the bar that goes across the middle of the cooling stack? I'm pulling my 5.9 from my '05. I removed the 4 bolts that secure the bar, but when I went to slide it out it doesn't slide far enough one way or the other.
View attachment 126879

Never thought I would see this view of my Cummins:

View attachment 126880

I stripped the motor down to the long block:

View attachment 126881

View attachment 126882 View attachment 126883 View attachment 126885

Motor is ready to ship.

 

[Ozymandias]

There are two ways for the bar - either you cut it and put a bar in it afterwards or you spread the fenders carefully with a hydraulic jack till you can get it out.
Both ways have pros and cons, but work.

 

[CVR222NV]

The shop that removed my motor cut it in half with a sawsall I purchased a new one and intend to try to spread the fenders to install the new one.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

There are two ways for the bar - either you cut it and put a bar in it afterwards or you spread the fenders carefully with a hydraulic jack till you can get it out.
Both ways have pros and cons, but work.

Thanks ill try and figure out if I can spread the fenders.

 

[CVR222NV]

The brackets that secure the cross member are part of the fender. It appears that the fenders have a single large bolt that attaches the front of the fender to a frame bracket. I figured that I would unbolt one side to see if I can get it in and if not then unbolt both sides and gently spread. I wonder if there is a You Tube video?

 

[jghflys]

The brackets that secure the cross member are part of the fender. It appears that the fenders have a single large bolt that attaches the front of the fender to a frame bracket. I figured that I would unbolt one side to see if I can get it in and if not then unbolt both sides and gently spread. I wonder if there is a You Tube video?

I spread the front fenders. Remove the bolts at each end of the cross member. Open both doors and loosen the bolts at the rear of the fender. Leave the doors open. Remove the bolts from the from both front fender supports. Move the cross member as far as possible into the left (from the front of the truck) cross member socket. pry the fenders apart while sliding the cross member out of the right side (from the front of the truck) until the cross member clears the end of the right front socket and pull the cross member towards you. You can then slide the cross member from the left socket. Slide the front of both fenders into the original position and snug the bolts on the front and back of both fenders. You can then close the doors without damaging the door or fender lips.

 

[User113]

I spread the front fenders. Remove the bolts at each end of the cross member. Open both doors and loosen the bolts at the rear of the fender. Leave the doors open. Remove the bolts from the from both front fender supports. Move the cross member as far as possible into the left (from the front of the truck) cross member socket. pry the fenders apart while sliding the cross member out of the right side (from the front of the truck) until the cross member clears the end of the right front socket and pull the cross member towards you. You can then slide the cross member from the left socket. Slide the front of both fenders into the original position and snug the bolts on the front and back of both fenders. You can then close the doors without damaging the door or fender lips.

Or...you could just get out the Saws-all and be done in a few minutes.