replacing gaskets behind cam gear cover

[cricha]

Engine developed an oil leak on the front that I'm told is behind the cam gear. Got a couple estimates from 2 different shops, both about the same, right around 5K $ to fix the leak. One shop said the motor should come out because the cam needs to be removed to do it properly. The other shop said the gear could be removed without removing the cam and the engine would not have to be removed. I have a VERY basic understanding of the process involved, so can someone provide any details on how this fix is accomplished? One question I have, is how is the cam gear attached to the cam? Is it pressed on? fitted keyway? any info is helpful ! THANKS!

 

[sag2]

Cam gear is pressed on. There have been some people that say they can R&R the gear in the truck, but I would never do it. Bottom line is the cam does have to come out, but engine can stay in. I would first try torquing the bolts. The front cover has to be removed, but it is a lot less work than removing the gearcase and cam. If the leak is not bad and does not make a big mess I would tend to leave it alone.

 

[Cummins12V98]

If after tightening what you can and still have a leak thoroughly clean the area and apply a coat of Permatex the Right Stuff Black. Worth a try as I have stopped non pressure oil leaks this way.

 

[Ozymandias]

Cam gear is pressed on. There have been some people that say they can R&R the gear in the truck, but I would never do it. Bottom line is the cam does have to come out, but engine can stay in. I would first try torquing the bolts. The front cover has to be removed, but it is a lot less work than removing the gearcase and cam. If the leak is not bad and does not make a big mess I would tend to leave it alone.

I second this,mine sealed up just fine with the housing bolts re-torqued, some of them have been quite loose.

 

[BigPapa]

And, if not, this is my 2nd Gen when a buddy and I replaced mine. Took three days.

 

[cricha]

in the past I have been 100% successful in the repair projects I have undertaken on my trucks, whether it was dealing with the many problems on my 6.0L Superduty or the comparatively few problems I have encountered with my RAM. Primarily due to the tech advice and comments I have gotten from the knowledgeable folks that have taken the time to respond to my posts. I appreciate all of the technical help I've gotten from the folks here on the
TDR, you guys have REALLY helped. Thank-you!!
Concerning this particular issue, I talked with a couple shops prior, and determined that it was going to be an expensive fix to have a shop complete it, and that in reality, I didnt have anyplace indoors to work on it, and it was/could require some tools I no longer have access to to get the job done correctly. So I took the truck to a shop.
When the repairs were complete and I picked up the truck, I had a chance to talk with the tech that did the work. He said it was a real problem to get the cam gear off, he had to use a lot of heat to get it off. I asked if he had removed the cam and pressed off the gear, and he said it was a lot of extra work to remove the cam, that he did the cam gear removal and replacement with it in the motor. he described the rest of the work he did and that was that. started the truck, everything sounded ok, and drove home. By the time I got home, there was significant valve train noise. Took the truck back to the shop, they said probably needed to have the valves re adjusted. (the tech told me he adjusted the valves as part of the procedure already) Left the truck with them, called back a couple days later, was told they were dis assembling the cam gear again to ensure it was installed correctly. I commented to the shop owner that the gear as I understood, needed to be pressed on and off, and my concern was not them using heat and a puller to get the gear off, but how did they get the gear back on without damaging something internal? His reply was that they had some really big tools, and they heated the gear in a big oven.
So my questions are, can anyone offer advice on the proper procedure to change this gearcase gasket, and does the cam need to be removed to properly remove and replace the gear. ANY advice on this is greatly appreciated. I'm trying to get a copy of the factory SHOP manual (not aftermarket) so I can reference that, but can't seem to get through the Mopar site registration. If anyone has some tips on how to purchase access to the factory shop manual, I would be very interested.
Thanks guys - I value your opinions.

 

[sag2]

Although some have claimed they did the job without removing the cam, the service manual procedure is to remove it. In fact on some models they say to remove the engine to remove the cam.

 

[sag2]

 

[cricha]

Thanks sag2 for the post. This is the documentation that I need. Where is this available?
ok, I found it. trying to get registered...Their help desk is working on it...

 

[BigPapa]

Where is this available?

the service manual procedure is to remove it.

 

[cricha]

Thanks BigPapa and sag2 for the posts, it backs up what one shop told me was the correct procedure to removing the cam and correcting the oil leak. I was looking to get a subscription to the service library so I could print out the proper service procedure in the event I need to have a discussion with others involved.

 

[BigPapa]

This is the procedure on AllData, one of the best Vehicle data and repair programs available. See step #3.

 

[cricha]

This is the procedure on AllData, one of the best Vehicle data and repair programs available. See step #3.

View attachment 139569

Thanks BigPapa. I finally got into an Alldata account. Looks like your version has a bit more info. I couldnt find the page you posted. A lot of great info though. I'll probably sift through it tonight.

 

[BigPapa]

The menu path is there below the title.

Vehicle > Engine & Cooling System > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Service & Repair > Removal & Replacement > Timing Case Front Housing - Removal

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Heating the cam gear to replace it on the nose of the camshaft has been tried since 12 valve days. You only get one chance to get it all the way on before the heated gear seizes onto the camshaft. Worse, in almost all cases two of the three webs between the outer geared part and the hub crack from the heating process.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I agree with the above post that you should try spray cleaning and applying RTV since the leak is not pressurized. Check tightness of the outside bolts and if somewhat loose, it would be worthwhile to remove the cover to get to the inner bolts.